jboymechanic Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 RockAuto.com has the RHD rack and pinion for $242 with a $125 core charge. Unless you can find an old used one, that's probably the best price you can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 RockAuto.com has the RHD rack and pinion for $242 with a $125 core charge. Unless you can find an old used one, that's probably the best price you can find. last time we called for availability they said out of stock. he would have to pull his rack and send it to them... :-\ and kristjan I forgot iceland was lhd lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I got my EJ20H RUNNING IN THE BRAT WHOOP Cheers R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I put my GL back together today, added some parts like a plate light, speedo, non-rusty fenders... etc. Some other crap that'll hopefully get it past inspection. I need to get out and do some more wheeling I got my EJ20H RUNNING IN THE BRAT WHOOP Cheers R. NICE!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Went wheeling in my 89 and cut a sidewall crossing the creek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I got my EJ20H RUNNING IN THE BRAT WHOOP Cheers R. You took a video of this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 1987 GL: -took it wheeling to 12000 ft -got another radiator fan so it stays cool while going slow up steep grades 1998 Legacy Outback: -installed group N control arm bushings and fabricated 30mm spacers to fit the outback -installed new tie-rods and ends, OEM rack boots -installed new ball joints -installed a new right front axle -got all my Pedders HD lift springs, KYB struts, mounts, etc... (front and back) -ebayed 2 sheets of 1/2" HDPE to cut spacers (http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/31520-diy-strut-spacer-lift-templates.html) What do you guys think? Should I put just 1/2" in back and leave the front alone or should I go through the trouble of 1/2" in front and stack two 1/2" spacers in back? I'm leaning towards just one 1/2" spacer in back and call it good. This is mostly a highway/car-camping rig. The 87 GL is the off-roader. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 You took a video of this right? There is a video in his thread! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1030454#post1030454 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Doing some resealing on my engine.Was running a bit low on oil pressure and needed some other seals, so I pulled the engine out (ea82T) and took it down to block and heads still together. The gear on the oil pump had split and the metal band on the back had fallen off and wore a hole through the pump :eek:. Got another one coming on Thursday so no biggey. Also wanted to stop my power steering from leaking all over the place and took it out, took the reservoir off to change the o-ring out. Noticed that there seemed to be lots of signs of leaking from the front bearing seal area, sourced a bearing for it locally and took the shaft out to get the bearing off. Notice a seal behind the bearing---- and it was missing parts of the inner lip...... Part number on it is NOK ae 0816f.... yeah right.... try to find one of those. Crosses over to a honda part number (91215PHR003) for 2004 insight manual transmission shifter seal.... No one locally has one of those or any other seal that is the right size (18x30x7) was looking on several pages and thought that the oil pump seal looked real close to the right size and since I had one already to the pump reseal I pulled it out and checked it. It is 18x30x9 hmmmmmm....... the back looks like it might compress a little so give it a shot. Will have to let you all know if it all works like it is supposed to (i.e. no weird sounds or leaks) but this seems like a really good solution for the power steering pump leaks. Hush Finished doing the reseal, added a new clutch kit, got it all back in and seems a bit sluggish...... oh and the turbo is whining at me...... Got a turbo for someone on here and it seems to want to whine also....:-\ Also put in lifters I got from Mitzpa (4 I had) and 4 just rebuilt... still getting lifter noise. New oil pump and seals, o-ring and MM gasket. I always hate hearing the turbo whine, makes me nervous. Hush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I call it... The WEBERCLEANER I washed the GL too, and treated the windows to some rainX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Last Saturday, I did the Weber swap. With the Trans-Dapt 2107 carb adapter, the water crossover in the intake seals up fine with the gasket and a little bit of RTV (copper was the only color I had when I started). I have to say, the change in driveability and power was rather astonishing. And once I had completed the swap and hit the key, it buzzed to live immediately. It does diesel a little bit on occasion, but that isn't a big deal at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 2marrow im fixing the duty c solenoid issue on my 95 legacy wagon....ugh. ive done a full stereo, blacked out taillights, eyelids on the headlights, custom cold air intake right into the front bumper cover, removed tow hitch lol. porting header from a ej25 to put on my ej22.....got a magnaflow muffler from work free...gunna put that on soon. 3" inlet 4" outlet....should be decent sounding. i also painted the interior trim blue. looks good though.....will post pics or check out cardomain- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3924038/1995-subaru-legacy-ls-wagon-4d ....all the pics are there except for the stereo pics i think...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 I wheeled the 87 GL some more. Here is a cell phone vid near Silverton, CO. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdEg6vhk1_Q&feature=player_embedded Also, I know I posted a preliminary update before, but I finally got the 2" spring lift into the 1998 Legacy Outback. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124613 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Last Saturday, I did the Weber swap. With the Trans-Dapt 2107 carb adapter... Great! ... Could I Ask if your Subie has the A/C: How did you Attached the Accelerator actuator from the A/C to the Weber? I Just Used a Trans-Dapt 2107 on my Weber too... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 hydrolocked the engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 hydrolocked the engine... ouch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Pulled an '87 Rx over to the carport, its motor gets pulled and installed in an '86 gl-10 that will be up for sale soon:) When this sells and im finished with 2 current ej conversions...no more ea82t cars:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 ouch! Cranked water past the rings. A lot more cranking, some sputtering, a couple stalls later. It came back to life. Changed the oil, and all is fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) did the duty c yesterday and got it right the first time!..... i have pics look for it in the forum on the duty c replacement guide took me 8 hours ugh! the tailshaft housing would not budge!!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124754&highlight=duty+solenoid Edited July 17, 2011 by 95legwagon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Well here is what I recently did to my $300 Subaru. Replaced from fender, still looking for hood due to deer hit. Front foglight Head gaskets and resealed whole motor Timing belt and all rollers Tensioner Water pump Reseal oil pump Separator plate Clutch and pressure plate and bearings knock sensor Every fluid in the car Belts All hoses Thermostat Radiator cap Front struts and oem springs Rear shocks/ original springs Rear rotors and pads New tires Headlight adjustment Cabin air filters Full recon Install my xm radio Charged ac changed high and low valve Installed missing plastic wheel well Oem air filter and PVC valve Valve adjustment ------------------- Came with 2 new tires New head light New exhaust New front brakes I think I'm about covered for a while. I'm still well under 2k in to my legacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 made an xt6 steering wheel fit on my loyale. xt splines are larger, or smaller. one or the other, either way, i didnt fit and i had to hack up my steering wheel to make it fit. im also 2 days into a motor swap. (obd2 EJ) motors in, gotta do the radiator hoses, powersteering pump, fuel lines, and then the exhaust and wiring.. (ugh, not looking forward to wiring) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Blew the lower radiator hose last night.. used tape to hold it which did not help too much.. Tried to get a quick as I could to a place where I could get some water and spend the night till the morning.. I blew a red light just as a cop was waiting on the other side of the intersection.. I knew what was coming next but he let me go with no issues.. did lots of coasting in neutral When I did get to the place I started pouring in the water and it was very easy to tell when it got to the heads because I had old faithful.. I will now always keep some duct tape in my tool bag now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Blew the lower radiator hose last night.. used tape to hold it which did not help too much.. Tried to get a quick as I could to a place where I could get some water and spend the night till the morning.. I blew a red light just as a cop was waiting on the other side of the intersection.. I knew what was coming next but he let me go with no issues.. did lots of coasting in neutral When I did get to the place I started pouring in the water and it was very easy to tell when it got to the heads because I had old faithful.. I will now always keep some duct tape in my tool bag now Next time you blow a hose, don't put the rad cap on. This will keep the pressure in the system down as to not blow the tape off. You'll need to periodically stop to add more water... But you won't keep blowing the hose worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Custom air filter and some fresh paint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Custom air filter and some fresh paint! That thing looks pimp! I might do something like that in place of the stock Weber filter. How does it flow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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