l75eya Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Thermostat in the Loyale. No more overheating in 15 minutes! Now it just overheats in traffic because the cooling fan isn't coming on! Ugh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Yeah, just did the t-stat in the wagon. Gave the heater hoses a tug/squeeze (that sounds dirty!) and felt some crunching. Prolly haven't been replaced in 30yrs. At least I haven't. Given the recent heat wave I wont be driving her till I fix that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Jumped the ground on the thermoswitch leads and the fan powered on so knew it wasn't a 12v problem, swapped in the switch from my GL, cut+crimped spade connectors on Loyale wires and fired him up, started getting warm and still no fan. Messed with the wiring and it came in. Found a loose connection in the blue connector. Cut out the connector and barreled the wires, all is well, fan runs normal now :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Jumped the ground on the thermoswitch leads and the fan powered on so knew it wasn't a 12v problem, swapped in the switch from my GL, cut+crimped spade connectors on Loyale wires and fired him up, started getting warm and still no fan. Messed with the wiring and it came in. Found a loose connection in the blue connector. Cut out the connector and barreled the wires, all is well, fan runs normal now :-) Does the new car have AC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 The tin can does, all this work was on Ben though, and his is non functioning, for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henpecked Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 bull bar replaces nudge bar and standard bumper feel safer re interstate trips now.needs a little adjustmentthe bar was second hand and really not in the best condition.the aluminum mesh between all 4 posts had been removed, ( I'll see about replacing it) it was missing one of the rubber pads, missing both steel fitment arms, and one of the 4 captive bolts had been broken off. The new Pup chewed off thel electrical leads from the indicator pods, and one of those got destroyed by me with a fully jammed attachment screw - fortunately they were the standard brumby indicator pods, so I used the ones from the original bumper. Also Ruined one new nut cleaning out the bolt threads.A good mate fabbed up new supports for me, as I had a 5 poster from the same QLD manufacturer on the white brumby, so he used its supports as templates, and they fitted perfectly . I stole a rubber pad of it as well.This was the one that I will still have on the white beast., the 5 posts are just a little too intimidating on a non-lifted Brumby IMHO . But it certainly ensures that EVERYONE gives way to youGot Copper grease to use on the bolts/nuts to make it easier to remove / tighten up next time.But all in all I'm good with it , I wanted four posts and the slight wrap around at the side, and that's what I got. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 I wouldn't worry about the mesh personally. It just makes mounting extra lights difficult and distorts the headlight beam. Unusual to hit small animals, but even if you do, not much damage can be done. More important to see the animals and avoid them rather than hit them. But the damn roos don't think like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I wouldn't worry about the mesh personally. It just makes mounting extra lights difficult and distorts the headlight beam. Unusual to hit small animals, but even if you do, not much damage can be done. More important to see the animals and avoid them rather than hit them. But the damn roos don't think like that You confused me there, which damn roos are you talking about? The ones driving or the two legged ones getting hit with the ones being driven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiGL Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Didn't do anything to mine, but drove 1400km round trip to inspect a possible donor car. 1990 JDM (import to Aus) GTII touring wagon. Spec won't be too much surprised to US, but things that Aus wagons don't have that this one does: Digi dash, cruise, headlamp washers, front fogs, variable intermittent wipers, 4EAT, EA82T front left.JPG The engine has typical blown head gasket, but the body & interior are rough. Deciding whether to "kill" it for parts for mine, or fix it a bit with my parts (NA MPFI + dual range 5 spd) and use the good bits in my shell, or flog mine & "restore" this one. The car won't run without the green check connectors joined though, so has anyone got any advice about whether it could have electric problems also? Didn't scare me off. Personally I'd restore it, the EA82T is a solidly performing engine with new HG. I love the look of the JDMs too, having grown up with plenty like that one in NZ. The HGs killed most of them though. I used to have an EA82T with 3AT 4wd NZDM, rusted out a year back though. If the body is solid, I'd redo the HGs, replace all brake pads and fluids and any shot lines, and look for the damaged interior panels and replace those as needed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 You confused me there, which damn roos are you talking about? The ones driving or the two legged ones getting hit with the ones being driven. Kangaroos. Those bars are either called "bull bars" or "roo bars" in Aus, after the 2 things you're most likely to hit with one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Didn't scare me off. Personally I'd restore it, the EA82T is a solidly performing engine with new HG. I love the look of the JDMs too, having grown up with plenty like that one in NZ. The HGs killed most of them though. I used to have an EA82T with 3AT 4wd NZDM, rusted out a year back though. If the body is solid, I'd redo the HGs, replace all brake pads and fluids and any shot lines, and look for the damaged interior panels and replace those as needed. It was more that I made a post, and then there was silence for a day or so My problem is that I've got a solid rust free Touring wagon in my garage I've been slowly working on for the last 10 years. The JDM one has a lot of features that I was trying to retrofit, but also has the additional one of 4 spd auto. This would allow me to get it registered for my wife to drive around in the city. I think the A pillars are gone. This is the only place we get rust here because of the dry climate and results from poor workmanship while replacing the windscreen. And if it's for my wife to drive, I'd want to fix that properly, something I'd have to pay to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Cut and Tig weld new sections in is the only way to sort that out, Minimal distortion and you don't have to strip as much and unlike a Mig weld no chance of weld spatter on any glass as the best bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Removed break calipers pb blsted steering knuckle getting ready to pull that and the busted CV joint out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 coxy, you know anyone who could do that work? I don't know how to weld and this wouldn't be a good place to learn If I can buy it though, the seller's become a bit elusive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Replaced the crusty heater hoses on the '84 wagon. Originals, surprised (lucky?) they lasted this long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) Fitted some new wheels to fix the offset issue I had with the old Impreza wheels (modern Subaru's are +48/+53 offset, which doesn't suit MY's with 5-stud). These are 1st gen Audi TT, which are +31 offset on 7" wide wheels. Starting to think I might need to install power steering, the tyres are only 205 instead of 195 but it feels a lot heavier. Edited September 7, 2015 by dfoyl 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) Edited September 7, 2015 by dfoyl 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiGL Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 coxy, you know anyone who could do that work? I don't know how to weld and this wouldn't be a good place to learn If I can buy it though, the seller's become a bit elusive... Those A pillars don't look too bad. Once you take the windscreen out you'll have a better idea of the scale of the problem though, mine had rusted down behind the spare wheel well and behind the front mudflaps too - the front end wasn't held on very securely. But mine looked worse than that! Difficult situation owning two... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 After joining this forum, I've realised that Aussies get not too bad a deal when it comes to rust. We only get it around the screen (and then only due to poor workmanship when replacing it) or around damage. I've decided to buy it. Got enough to make 2 complete cars, so I'll see about repairing the rust & fixing it after I get mine on the road. The rest of the car is tired, but not too bad. How do you go with replacements parts over in NZ? Getting thin on the ground in a few places here now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Nice Job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) Wagonist there is a guy down at Darkes Forest south of Helensburg who would probably be the man to see to fix the rust properly see the link, He will fix it properly, have a look at his site this guy is no typical modern slap em together so called panel beater such a good basis deserves fixing properly and I do believe this would be the man to do the job. http://www.lonestarbodyshop.com.au/default.php As for L series bits there are two choices the Subaru wreckers at from memory Cardiff near Newcastle and Dapto Pick a Part as it seems older model anything is scarce in Sydney these days, there are a few wagons at dapto plus earlier stuff and compared to Sydney prices are pretty fair. Dapto sells any gearbox in the yard for $250.00 which makes the many Foresters and Impressa's and Libertys a bargain for a second hand box and I prefer yards where you pull the parts rather than off the shelf stuff because you can see the cars condition and judge how well it was looked after, For instance an engine that whilst dirty and with some evidence of oil leaks tells you it was a runner before the accident wheras I have been caught twice with so called Reconditioned heads that had cracks. Seems some wreckers will have a head serviced and put it on the shelf but neglect to have them pressure tested to make sure there are no cracks, So when I come across one that is dirty and was obviously still in service till the accident I know the odds are much better that is is useable with no cracks. Oh I suppose I better add something I have done to My Subie lately, Fitted a touring wagon tilt column to the brumby mainly because the ignition switch needed replacing and this one was low miles and the switches are different so required the column, Got a full matched set of locks and paid ten bucks extra to get it with the column and all the surrounds required, Dismantled the Ignition switch and cleaned and serviced it just to make sure that the tumblers were all good as my old one was getting pretty worn after 450,000 km, The new one is 310,000 km younger Edited September 13, 2015 by coxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Yeah, been to Dapto a bit, just a bit of a hike form the western suburbs. Looking to scout for some bumpers. Agree with the theory about pulling stuff yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Made this work, wasnt to bad a install. Had to trim down the rad cover is all. Also, a recent pic... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elRayRay Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I bought mine today 1987 GL Wagon 4wd. Needs some things. Planning to go +4" with 27" BFG's. I have lots of questions for everyone willing to listen. I'll be on the boards over time. See you around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Well, this sucks. Started poking around with my fingers on what looked like a small rust spot on the Brat. Turned into this..... http--,,--// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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