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With the spark plugs out, crank the engine until you see oil pressure. It'll crank pretty fast and build pressure after a couple tries. Also don't prefill the oil filter, if the oil pump wasn't preprimed it'll take very long for the air to overcome the oil stuck in the filer. If you're not sure, just crank it with no oil filter until you see it spit out oil, then the pump is primed. Put back the filter and crank for pressure. I'd crank until the oil light goes out, let it rest while I button up the some things, come back and test crank again to confirm the oil light instantly goes out. Then you're sure everything ready to fire up.

Same for all EJs so yes, it’s between the alt and PS pump. Cheers Bennie

is the oil pressure switch up top on that engine?

Yes, I have a couple pictures that show the franken-member. I don't have any space for pictures on here. How do I get them to you?

Makes things easier if you turn the engine over by hand until all 3 timing marks are straight up before removing the tensioner and belt. Put a axle nut on the crank pulley bolt to space it out. This was a 2004 OB and those are Aisin tensioner and water pump in this pic.

Hi There, just had a rebuild done on my '99 Legacy Outback EJ25 Anyone know how feasible it is to prime the engine using a garden sprayer? Ive heard about this and seen some videos on youtube. Those tanks can hold pressure over 30-40PSI. Would this be enough pressure to prime the whole system? Any other recommendations for priming the system? Other must-haves before first start?

@Crazyeightshave you had a chance to get your car on the lift to take pictures yet?

A reminder: Take photographs of the old timing belt before removal, including timing marks. It will make installing the new belt easier.

Thanks. I appreciate the response. I’ll take the timing covers off and get a look at the tensioner and water pump.

Engine size doesn't matter as much as SOHC vs DOHC. SOHC belt is same on 2.0, 2.2, 2.5 SOHC engines. DOHC belt matches all DOHC EJ. You'll still need to make sure the tensioner matches the one you have: old style vs new style. And water pump matches: side exit or bottom exit.

I bought a 2002 Outback sedan that was JDM 2.0 swapped and I’m trying to figure out what Aisin timing belt kit I need to get for it. So apparently, the intake, as well as the right side cam gear and crank gear were changed to the 2.0 from the original engine. Do I need to worry about the size of the engine or just get what kit is called for for this car?

The factory wheel bearings lasted about 60K miles so I had a dealer replace them--$1200. Car now has 180K miles and I have replaced the bearings one side at a time several more times and now needs the left side again. I've gotten pretty good at doing this job and takes about 45 minutes a side now, but sure would be nice if someone makes a better version of this part. Last time I used a Moog and that's what I need to replace. Interestingly, I have never had to replace a front hub. Any advice on brand that might be better? Several brands claim to be an improved part, but who knows?

Heard you missed me - well, I'm back! No news has been good news - cars pretty much behaved through the winter, so I had little reason to hang out and was deeply immersed in other work. That changed today: In the city for some shopping, sporadic noises I'd been hearing became real, and the '01 H6 tossed its belt. When I raised the hood, I could see that the idler had departed its bearing, which seemed weird. Upon closer examination, what went was the tensioner bearing, and in the process it trashed the arm. I hoped that the spare engine I picked up a couple of summers ago would be a donor, but no such luck - I have the engine and manifold but none of the ps pump/alternator/ac compressor brackets and mounts - they must have already been missing from the junkyard donor. So tonight's question is: Are there any other engines that use the same tensioner? Thanks much. Jonathan

Greetings Subaru community, I have a 2023 Outback base. The bottom screen is cracked. All of the replacement screens on the eBay Motors look slightly different than the one I have in my outback.-however they claim it is the correct screen(the left side defrost buttons are different)- however the 2023 WRX base screen replacement on eBay motors looks exactly like the one in my outback-same left side defrost buttons- question: will this WRX screen work for my outback? thanks, Mike

I do get a p0420 code periodically, it's usually on a coatsting deceleration. I replaced it s little while ago, but I'll check it. I'm definitely not a fan of the droning. Maybe I can get a back portion from the local Subaru recycler

@Foreverman8 - any text to go with the pics for context? Nice looking Tribeca though. Cheers Bennie

Removing the resonator will create a sharp crackle/raspy sound at certain revs and engine loads. I’d describe it as being a bit like the crackle/raspiness of a Holden 253 V8 (4.2L) with twin pipes and no equaliser pipe, but you guys wouldn’t know what I’m taking about… Cheers Bennie

If anything, inspect the donut flange area. if it's rusted out I'd just replace the entire thing. A sometimes leaking and sometimes not spring loaded donut flange makes it hard to chase the inevitable p0420 code. The muffler end can fall off and it wouldn't set codes. No resonator wouldn't bother the neighbors, it'd bother you with highway droning if you're sensitive to that.

I'm in Colorado so things rust, it not like other parts of the country. Everything else seems pretty solid, but you never really now.

local shop here charges $50-$75 to weld a rusted flange or joint. I’ll toss them a $100, that’s too cheap. I’ve installed a couple of low cost eBay or rock auto exhaust parts. They bolted right up and work if that’s all you’re asking for. They will rust a lot quicker than stock OEM if you’re in the rust belt or want them to last 10+ years. If you plan on owning it a long time I’d look at it carefully and if there’s any signs of other rust or rusty flanges/muffler it’s worth just replacing it all now.

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS and found a large, nickel sized, hole right behind the resonator. Has anyone had any good success with cat back system replacements, or should I just take it to a shop to get the pipe replaced. If I delete the resonator will it become obnoxious? I'm not looking for high performance or super loud modifications. Louder than factory is fine, but nothing crazy

boat payment

Save those ABS sensors for me lol