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  2. carfreak85

    EA82T modules wanted

    Ahhh, I don't think 85/86 even had a boost cut, so that's probably not your issue. Do you have an FSM yet and have you looked up the troubleshooting tree for your condition? I have no idea what you've disconnected, but our cars never had a blowoff valve. The EA81Ts had a "pop off" valve that protected the engine from overboosting, but I'm not sure if EA82Ts had that as well. I wouldn't worry about a vent-to-atmosphere bov, it's not going to help anything and may hurt drivability somewhat. Get the engine in a good state of tune, then add an intercooler.
  3. No, it's done on a piston knurler. If you tried it on a lathe you would probably make the piston smaller. The idea on a Subaru is to leave indentations in the skirt like a golf ball. These hold oil and give the skirt a hydraulic cushion. GD
  4. 96 2.2 is non interference. 96 2.5 is interference. 97 All engines are interference. Period. There are no exceptions to this rule in the USDM. GD
  5. ausubaru92

    turbo exhaust crossovers

    On Series 2 cars with the hotwire MAF, the solenoid controlled boost pressure. It was basically an altitude compressor and increased boost pressure a little at higher altitudes when the ECU detected the MAF voltage was lower than it expected for a given RPM/throttle position Said no-one ever
  6. sparkyboy

    EA82T modules wanted

    Right. Thanks for the tips boys! Mine is the 85 with the flapper style maf and i tested the two i have for resistance. I did suspect the maf, and i jb welded little cracks. I guess the loyale turbo and xt have a way different intake since the loyale is the hot wire maf. But i will test with a smoke machine before moving forward. I do have the pressure release (bov?) venting to atmosphere instead of back in because I love the psssh sound. Will am aftermarket bov make it extra loud? He hee. This is my first turbo project and would love to boost my ej22 for my xt so i can start wrecking transmissions . Might as well find some turbo pistons lol oh and an lsd or two. I want to slam and autocross my xt on the 13s. But please offer any advice you have to a boost rookie. And i have the fsm, it tells you to "apply shock to the engine" which means smacking with a hammer to test the knock sensor!
  7. Today
  8. Sounds like a stuck or unpowered ignition relay. See diagram on page 195 etc. of the 1st ej22 service manual here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/
  9. Subasaurus

    Uno - My First

    im afraid of heights! but this is soooo cooool!!!!!!!
  10. carfreak85

    EA82T modules wanted

    Sounds like you're overboosting and hitting the fuel cut, which on the '87+ chassis with the hot wire MAF is only like 8 psi. Verify you don't have any vacuum leaks (rubber intake boot where it clamps onto the turbo is a common one, look for cracks), inspect all the rubber hoses, etc. Replace the knock sensor, then see if you're still having the problem. Do you have an FSM yet?
  11. DaveT

    EA82T modules wanted

    I don't have 1st hand experience with this, but have read a number of threads - knocking in ea82T is quick death..
  12. DaveT

    Head Gaskets.

    Yes, but this is typical of air in the system. If all is well, the amount of air will diminish over a few drive cycles. Re read my previous posts, they cover how to monitor what is going on, and determine the earliest beginning of headgasket failure or something else. If the air does not reduce over a few drive cycles, headgaskets are suspect. A small leak can cause this also. I run a zero pressure radiator cap to eliminate that possibility. As the number of over temperature events increases, the headgasket leak from combustion chamber to cooling system will get worse. Eventually there will be no question.
  13. See if the fuse blows w/the ignition relay unplugged.If OK,then see what happens w/the relay plugged in and the ECU unplugged.
  14. sparkyboy

    EA82T modules wanted

    Well, unless the intermittent issue of the car feeling like she hit a wall under high boost and going into limp mode is caused by something else like insufficient fuel pressure. And the knock sensor in the car has been messed with, someone rewired a new one in and i can't confirm if it works by hitting the engine with a hammer. Besides if i break something its ej time she does only have a little over 100,000 miles but she has had a rough life so far.
  15. smkauffman

    Possible new owner

    I can tell you that what I have heard here is definitely helping sway things in the Subaru direction. If the biggest, most common problem they have is the head gaskets I can deal with that. I have done engine R&R and rebuilds in the past. The big fear is getting something and then having some issue that requires special tools and equipment to fix forcing it into a shop or dealer for thousands of $$$. Other than that are there not really too many problems with anything else? HVAC, transmission, etc.? I know nobody can guarantee anything but typically is all the rest usually pretty good?
  16. SPFI,I presume? Fuse 5 powers the ECU both directly and thru the ignition relay.(with some white wires) See pages 52 and 155 of the 2nd EA82 manual here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/
  17. idosubaru

    Possible new owner

    You're more than set up for a headgasket, no special tools, pretty straight forward and lots of quality online support. Resurface, OEM gaskets, AISIN kit, valve covers, Subaru PCV valve, plugs/wires, air filter, fluids and you're set for about as easy of a 100k as you can get. Ohio can be low on subaru offerings. I'm in Canton every two months or so and 15 years ago I could literally go there an entire weekend and not see a Subaru, now they're everywhere in that town.
  18. Pardon the intrusion here, but I just caught up with this thread and don't know anything about knurling. Is the idea just to expand the skirt by pushing the metal up, giving a tighter fit and reducing slap? How is it done? Chuck it into the lathe and go at it with a knurling tool? Honestly, I don't think I've ever had the sound of piston slap pointed out to me - I don't think I could recognize it.
  19. smkauffman

    Possible new owner

    Even 24-25 highway is right around that "double the Tundra" mileage I'm looking for in a car, I'll take it. I looked specifically for Subarus for sale in the area and didn't find much, especially below $5k. A lot of the ones I did find had more like 200,000 miles on them. I have to admit at first the head gasket issue seemed pretty big but after a bit more research it doesn't really seem like that major or expensive of a project to take on yourself. Read all the DIY info, take your time, be careful. I have all the tools, air compressor, a 48'x72' building to work in and other vehicles to use while I work on one. I figure anything I get in this range will need some work to get through a few years. If I do it all myself and get a pretty decent price to begin with I am better off than spending twice as much or more to get something that will probably still need some work but is a few years newer or a little prettier. Haha, we'll see how I do with a car but the truck isn't going anywhere. I need the truck to tow the toy hauler, haul recycling, get through nasty snow drifts around the area sometimes and other truck stuff. It won't make much of a difference over summer months either since I'm on my bike about 80+% of the time anyway
  20. dang it gotta remember to look at dates on these
  21. johnwan

    Head Gaskets.

    Update. So I have tried a new radiator cap and thermostat. Everything seemed good for a few days. It is acting like a sticking thermostat again. The temperature gauge goes up to hot then drops to normal and stays there for the remainder of the drive. It’s is possible to get a defective thermostat out of the box?
  22. idosubaru

    Possible new owner

    the good thing about the cheap subaru is if you can find out why it's cheap - headgaskets for example - they are not hard to replace and done right you've got an easy 100k vehicle for inexpensive. most truck owners i see dabble with a car for a year or less and are back in a truck. will you beat the odds?! haha. I'd guess price is the driving factor here and finding one of those, or being platform specific, will be unlikely.
  23. 1 Lucky Texan

    Possible new owner

    you might take a look at a used Forester. 2010 could be the sweet spot for you. They are tall-ish so, you'd have a more 'commanding' view like with your pick-up. They are on the lighter Impreza chassis. better fuel economy. Still have some cargo space (though, kinda tall vs low like an Outback or legacy wgn) pretty good in the snow or mud or offroad too. Probably need a stiffer rear sway bar but, easy to install.
  24. 1 Lucky Texan

    Possible new owner

    Legacy might be better than Outbacks due to lower stance. Very hard to get better than 24-25 from our '03 H6 Outback. Gets 19-20 in the city. 4 cylinder might be a couple more mpg and of course works fine with regular fuel. Newer models also should be more fuel efficient so, depends a lot on what you end-up with. www.cars101.com should have published efficiency numbers for various models but, as I'm sure you know, real-world numbers aren't usually as good. Those Vibes/Matrices seem to really last. See them around sometimes - they also had a 4wd version I think?
  25. MR_Loyale

    Uno - My First

    The past weekend was great for flying. I got up both days. On the second day I had an encounter with a plane. Check it out:
  26. The interference engine happened in 96, and even then it was easy to have a non interference in 96, some 96 engines were used in 97s like my old one. From what I remember the only true way to know was look inside
  27. $225 is not fair for a used pump. I sell them for $20. I usually have a few WRX/STI take outs and they aren't worth beans. $120 would have been fair for a used pump with install. I get new high volume AEM pumps for about $55 wholesale. They retail for about $100. GD
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