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f both of them aren't working then it sounds like they were disabled or something that affects *both* sides is the issue. while they fail, the chances of both failing at the same time is unlikely and points to a shared issue or someone intentionally disabled them. check fuses/plugs make sure someone didn't just disconnect them. check that door switch is operational, i imagine that's what "triggers" them? convert to non-automatic download the FSM and start trouble shooting to retain the automatic ones.

Job is done. I pulled lateral link bolt to swap axle. Thanks all This car is from California, no rust and hub assembly was swapped sometime before I helped a friend get it. Lateral link and bolts all came out easy.

knock sensor might be cracked /bad - not uncommon on older soobs and may not set a code. Affects power and can cause the car to tick/knock under load......cheap ebay sensors work for most folks. If the tick is better/gone with high octane fuel, almost certainly the knock sensor is bad. You could also have excess carbon build-up. thud? worn bushings or motor or trans mount maybe....check the bushings at the rear of the front lower control arm especially, lots of force there. check trans fluid level and condition - you must check the level while idling, after moving the shifter thru each gear. Top up 1/2 pint at a time, the marks are NOT 1qt. apart. On older soobs, some folks can cure delayed engagement by using Trans-X, might need some every year or 2. brakes are fairly simple and easy to work on, but there are a LOT of areas where things can need help. Run decent tires, do a good bleed, don't use 'economy' pads, name brand ceramic are probably the best. make sure calipers and other parts are free to move and brackets/bolts are secure, etc.

Well, I couldn't find an old ratty wheel to cannibalize for my aftermarket wheel adapter, so I just used mine. Made a plastic bushing to center the pilot bit, and holesawed away. Then flattened out the little bend on one edge with a BFH, and drilled and tapped for the new wheel. Best thing about this method (other than being cheap) is the horn and turn signal cancel cam work just like factory! I had this same style wheel back in high school in a 72 Opel GT that I stuffed a 1963, 215 CI. aluminum Oldsmobile V8 into, and always loved the wheel.

Have a look at these, boys! Still available from Subaru in tan.

Convert to manual belts. The auto belts are a pain in the a$$. GD

Carb is clapped out. Get a Weber. Understanding it isn't require. It's a carb - it works on venturi's, pressure differential, emulsion tubes, and jets (orifices) just like all the others. It's clapped out and no amount of futzing with it will magically turn it into a Weber. Don't waste your time. GD

Your on the east coast , lots of corrosion on things .That lateral bolt can be a bugger to remove. I recommend having a new lateral bolt on hand before starting.(at least locate a local dealer with one on the shelf ) I've had to cut them out before. I've also had to replace the bushings on the links as the bolt seized inside. I have also fought the axle itself , not wanting to slide out of the hub OR wanting to pop off the differential. I groan anytime I have to go to the rear wheels on that year group.

Thanks for the replies. I haven't had the CEL turn on so I haven't checked for code. I forgot to mention that it's a manual. I unhooked one of the hoses today while fueling and it actually solved the fueling problem! It was the hose farthest in from the right side of the car. If this diagram I found is correct (http://glasairproject.com/GlasairI/soobdocs/EG(H4)EVAP.gif, in my attached photo it's the hose on the bottom of the picture without the clamp), then I believe the hose I disconnected is the one that connects to the solenoid, and thus would affirm that it's most likely the solenoid causing the issue. I'll try disconnecting and blowing through it before I pull the trigger on a new one. Looks like they run between $80-$100 on Rock Auto. I'm hoping/praying it's not the valves... To my knowledge, they have never been adjusted. I'll probably get to replacing it early next week and give you all an update. Thanks for the help!

My new 77 wagon 1977 Subaru Wagon by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr

Higher-than-stock CV angles, and then a CV failed. Certainly related. Might be something else contributing, might have already been worn. Pretty hard to say if the next one will last or not.

Got the front and rear windows, lights, front and some of the interior back together. I also installed speedoo clutch and throttle cables, the radiator and fan and made a pitch stopper by sleeving the ea81 pitch stopper to extend it slightly using the stock mount location on the body and welding a bit onto a the original mount plate from the ea81. Waiting on a single brake line for it to hit the streets. Have had it running and have worked a bit on getting the carbs synced but need to take it for a drive to really feel it out, AFRs were looking good when I've been running it and it sounds healthy and peppy. Pitch Stopper by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr IMG_5876 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr image_50428417 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr

You aren't reading a code. Those six short flashes indicate the processor ID. More information about codes can be found here:

Guys, miracles do happen! A lady that lives down the road from my parents has a broken down DL with quads, and she is letting me buy them! Along with the fenders (95% rust free) and all the A.C. components for $100. The only catch is that I have to attach my old fenders and headlights to her wagon so that it doesn't look like a junk car sitting in her yard.

Bought a Toyota front axle for the gl, and put a 20" light bar on my roof rack.

Just put an ally radiator in my 91 brumby.

Just pulled my engine out of my loyale, pretty proud my very first engine pull

Took my tax return and put it towards doing the suspension on my Legacy. It's a 1998 Legacy L wagon, so I had base suspension on there (with some 205/70/R14 tires for a little lift). I did a bunch of research and decided on Outback struts, Forester springs, 16" wheels, and 27" A/T tires. Very very very very happy with the result. Exactly what I wanted, lots of ground clearance but could still pass as stock to the untrained eye. I put all new 1998 Legacy Outback KYB GR-2 struts, all new KYB strut mounts, all new 1998 Forester base M/T Moog springs, all new OEM Forester upper spring perches and seats (for the front struts), all new Moog inner and outer tie rod ends, used Outback trailing arm brackets, used 16" 2nd gen Outback wheels, and all new 215/65R16 General Grabber AT2 tires. Handles VERY nicely. Even though I'm higher up, it corners much better than before (mostly due to new struts). The suspension is a lot stiffer than it used to be, but still smooth and comfortable over bumps and offroad. The tires are a perfect fit! The only rubbing I've heard so far was at full lock doing a tight u-turn, and maybe once while backing up and turning. But it's so minor, even with the radio off and no noises, it can barely be heard. Maybe if I had mud flaps, they might rub on the front. Also I'm very impressed with how well the tires fit in the wheel well. I was worried the offset on the wheels (and wider wheels) would make it stick out more, but it's perfect. Performance hasn't been a big issue, even with the 3.9 gears and 2.2 engine. I'm used to driving my 2" lifted EA82 on 27" tires, so for reference, it's easier to drive than that. Acceleration is definitely slower but I didn't buy this car to go fast. These wheels/tires are around 46 lbs a piece, whereas my 205/70R14 tires on steel wheels (before I lifted the car) were around 40 lbs a piece. For how much tire I got, that extra weight is really marginal. I am planning on getting a 4.11 Outback gearbox and diff in the future, but I just replaced my transmission a couple months ago (got the car for cheap, wouldn't go into 4th, then clutch started going out), so I am not looking at doing that any time soon. As far as alignment goes, I did my own alignment (I work at a shop) and was able to get everything in spec. I had purchased camber bolts for the rear struts for camber and toe adjustments on all 4 wheels. I got everything within spec, and it drives straight. All 4 camber adjustments are maxed out, and one rear toe adjustment is maxed out (other is almost maxed). But like I said, all within spec and pretty close to preferred values. Rears have a little more negative camber (-0.7) than preferred (-0.5). Fronts have a little more positive camber (+0.0) than preferred (-0.2). Rear wheels are barely toed out (-0.10) compared to preferred (+0.0). So yeah, it's just barely off of preferred values but still within spec and I can hardly tell the difference in how it drives (most people wouldn't notice, I just do alignments for a living so I can notice). Going to be doing another alignment soon now that the suspension is more broken in, curious to see how the numbers changed. Curious to see how the CV axles hold up too. I think they will be fine, they don't look like they are at too bad of angles (especially compared to the EA82), but you never know. All in all, it took me a day to do everything. Did it at my shop so a lift, full air tools, and a wall-mounted spring compressor made easy work of the job. What wasted my time was one of the tack welded nuts on the trailing arm brackets broke, so I ended up cutting a hole in my floor pan under the rear seat to put a socket on the nut. Anyways, I'll stop rambling on, haha.

My Old School Favourite: The Subaru Leone Mezannotte: