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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/01/18 in all areas

  1. A well known person (Jamie Cavett) here in the Pacific NW recently purchased a turbo model Pretty awesome little car
    3 points
  2. The EG33 is like 3 inches longer, so fitment is much more difficult. Just getting the radiator to fit is a challenge. A/C? Yikes. Also the EG33 was rare and is getting old, parts are getting hard to come by. The EZ30 is newer, and much much more common. I love the EG33, but the EZ is so much more practical.
    2 points
  3. go to www.car-part.com and they will tell you what transmissions will work
    1 point
  4. so i guess i was driving all this time with slightly wrong timing belt markings. after i redone it its now drives as new car nothing like it was before. now it jumps from place and no more slugish feeling. amazing that its so simple to fix yourself. more easier because i have SOHC there and not DOHC had great time in forest exploring some long forgotten paths and found some fallen trees there
    1 point
  5. Hi Im new here, check out the intros for more of me... Here's our teeny weeny Subaru Vivio 660cc 4x4. I love it! max power at 7200rpm, EMPi four cylinder runs like a sewing machine. Great alternative to an old Fiat Panda 4x4, except for those impossible spare parts......... Made as a JDM Kei car, a few were sold in Europe. But not many.
    1 point
  6. Hello all, I am finally back home after some time away and back to working on projects. I finally have all of my spare ea81 parts at my house and some of them are going to come in very handy. The last couple of days have mostly consisted of preparing my replacement dash, going over wiring, changing light bulbs, etc. Work on the engine has involved cleaning the heads and getting them ready for reassembly, resealing the oil pump, changing WP and cleaning the oil pan. I was lucky, on the oil pump I just took the 4 bolts out and lightly tapped the oil filter twice and it fell right out. It looks pretty healthy inside. The same cannot be said for the oil pan. When I removed it there was nearly an inch of thick, coolanty sludge on the bottom. The bores, inside of the block, lifters and everything else look really good, but this certainly reinforces my thinking of a significant coolant breach in the past. Regarding the oil pickup, I was hoping some of you could offer some input. I loosened the holder and tried for a few minutes to remove it but it won't budge. The gasket is cracking away and looks unhealthy but if the tube is pressed into the block that well, is there really any worry about it leaking? Or do I need to find a way to remove it and reseal? The last thing I was working on was cleaning out the hvac box/ heater core. Found a blown HC and leaky coolant control valve that I am trying to deal with. That post is linked below. Any input on that is also appreciated. Until next time..
    1 point
  7. Update: I’m not sure what I did, but BOTH brake lights work now!! unplugged some stuff and then that fixed it lol. Thanks for the help guys!
    1 point
  8. After fuses check that the switch works properly at the pedal. You don't want to go chasing a wiring issue when it's a non functioning switch at the end of the day... Cherrs Bennie
    1 point
  9. Overheating is the ubiquitous over-taxed Subaru weak point when towing across multiple model's/decades with AT/MT. It's largely dependent on ambient temp/humidity and grade. If you're towing in flat land and zero degrees you can tow well over the limits. I'm not saying it's safe or wise I'm just saying it'll do it. If you're traversing steep grade mountain passes in high humidity and 100 degrees with a heavy load/poor aerodynamics, you can plan on it overheating.
    1 point
  10. 1 point
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