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I didn't really see that when I worked in Subaru parts (I left last summer). Certainly not the normal wear items. Yes, occasionally someone would be looking for something odd that wasn't available anymore... But yea, OEMs don't generally have much available after about 20-25 years (I can't believe how much Toyota has for my '91 and '87, and Ford can't even look up my '94).

More probable the CTS, coolant temperature sensor, needs replaced.

this, for sure.. if it is even close to being due, do it. also 100% agree with filling the block first via the upper hose, preferably with the nose of the car in the air, then connect the hose & fill radiator. Never had an issue doing it this way.

Guys, it's always easy to say OEM/dealer, but for an awful lot of stuff it's simply not realistic. There are two dealers here. They quoted me $170 (CDN) for an EJ25D belt - and at that price I would still have had to wait for it to come in from Portland (i.e. no local stock). Instead I landed a Mitsuboshi from an ebay vendor for about a third of that price.

OEM all the way or, if not, Japanese manufacture; Aisin waterpump, Mitsuboshi belt, Japanese bearings in the rollers....

this: Get them from Subaru or Aisin kits on rockauto/amazon. I'd replace the cam and crank seals too and reseal the oil pump while the timing belt is off.

You have a bad water pump. That leak is from the "weep hole" which is not visible till you remove the pump. You don't want to run straight water in the system as it has no shaft seal lubricating properties like coolant does. The pump was likely on its way out already though. GD

Found a way to save these hard-to-come-by pieces from death by rust. Start by removing rear axle & seized stub axle as a unit from rear trailing arm. Hammer out with block of wood & BFH or dead blow hammer Or my favorite though some will object - a ball peen in stub end & 4 lb drilling hammer. Next remove axle shaft from inner CV/DOJ cup. DOJs are easiest. Boot, outer lock ring, then pull everything else as one. Swab out old grease with rags. CVs require a few more steps, like rocking inner race & cage to one side, removing 2 balls, back the other way then last 2. Then work cage & inner race out - they do come out. Notice hammer marks on CV. Futile attempts to get the bugger off the stub. Note difference in how cup plugs are installed. CVs - plug hollow side up. DOJs - hollow side down. Use an awl to punch a starter hole in cup plug then screw a 1 inch or longer #10 sheet metal screw in which will lift the plug out of the recess. This exposes the end of stub axle. You might have to give seized parts a good soaking overnight with Kroil or other penetrating spray before press work. Install bearing clamshell around DOJ/CV just above dust shield, then place this in between heavy duty plates in 20 ton press. Use 4-6 inch piece of 5/8-3/4 inch round stock with ends squared up on end of stub to press with. Not too long or it may become angled & then bend easily. Plug for swagoffroad products: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-MACHINED-ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES-PAIR_p_7.html Pump press until either stub starts moving or feels like all 20T pressure is there. Rap on outside of cup a little with hammer to jar it. Helps align things for removal. Relieve pressure & turn cup some. Rinse & repeat until stub comes loose. Did this for alexbuoy & one of his took everything my old Enco press could muster. Finally came loose with a loud bang causing everything on press to jump. Bead blast or wire brush stubs. Hammer holes in cup plugs flat then soft solder holes shut. Clean up flux on plugs. Install with Permatex No. 1 or similar. Remember DOJs - cup plugs down. CVs - cup plugs up Apply anti-seize to splines after re-installing in rear arms. Both ends. Don't forget the rubber washers on short ends of stub axles. Hope this helps save a few axles & stubs in the future. Parts for EA cars are getting scarce.

Pull the cover around the latch hook on the body. There are 2 12mm bolts that hold it. Mark it's present location, loosen the bolts and give it a good tap. it will move back about an 1/8". That should do it. It's worked for me more than once. Larry

Change the water pump. If the T belt is due might as well do it with new idlers. When filling the car start with coolant in the upper radiator hose. Then the radiator. With our t stats on the bottom of the block, you will never fill it by just adding to the radiator. O.

water pump shaft seal is bad

The worst would be a cracked block, but that doesn't seem likely. I'd be getting that timing cover off of there asafp to confirm the water pump.

You should do a google image search for “Settlement Creek Racing” Scroll down to see the pic: https://allevents.in/griffith/subaru-brumby-race-car-on-show/169638510505561 In action: Epic build! Cheers Bennie