bheinen74

Cruise and horn and airbag tie into clockspring, not so much turn signals.

iirc there is a checkball in the fuel suppl line that if the car is rolled over, the check ball blocks fuel supply.. if you get nothing with key, then check all cable, grounds, fuses.

that will buff right out. fill it with bondo, sand, paint good as new... JUST kidding. Replace the pan. For future use, get a stock skidplate.

the oil pump has a pretty thin aluminum section in it that tends to crack upon removal.......that could be your leak....

double check you got the correct flexplate. Did you buy it from Subaru dealer, if so what is the part number. someone can check the number to your application, lets start from there. If you got if from other than dealer the likelihood of it being wrong is going to be higher chance.

what are the effects of gas mileage drain when AWD vs say, being in front wheel drive mode.....

oil pan = permatex ultra Grey. It is what the ej came from the factory with. Forget the old cork crap.... Subaru learned from the mistakes, so use permatex ultra gray, and then oil leaks will for sure be a thing of the past.

sounds like the beginning of a flexplate crack.

that old of Subaru, in WI is going to be like swiss cheese underneath it. scrap it. you already mention the brake lines are rusted out, the exhaust is rusted out, and the gas tank is too. Then a Subaru dealer advises it is not safe. If you get another one, have someone inspect the car for you it will save going thru this again.

We have listed there were risk when getting a turbo. No maintenance records, no deal.

That is the whole problem. Glad you got something worthwhile on them now.

take all tires back and get a different brand tire altogether. They will allow this, they know sometimes tires are just bad they are in this business, they will do what they can to make the customer happy. Do not get same brand tires as those they are probably junk. those tires are probably not michelin, pirelli, dunlop, yokohama or good year. I bet you got some off brand

yeah i missed it cause i wanted to post up current pics of how it sits this day.

I would like to be added to the poll, I read the rules and posted details and my 3 pics. Please can someone add me in the poll.

Thanks, I am only 6ft tall, they seem to fit just a TAD too tall even for me, but i live with them. Much better comfy than the stock torn dried out ones. But the color on them is exact for BRAT, like it was made for it. You can see my door sill plates, the door panels, all a exact match, got lucky i suppose.

The only way someone will pay good (maybe 500 bucks) money for this is if they have a LOW mileage car in need of a motor. But, think about it, low mileage car that is nice, is not going to need a new engine. The one in it will be fine. Nobody would pay that to drop this in a 300k beater mile car. The block will have pistons and crank, but nothing else, no intake, no oil pump no timing components, etc. It is a block, with pistons and crank and rear main seal and front seal. nothing more. But if someone has a low mileage example, they might want it to know they have a good long term motor. So those folks may pay good money. But like i said, throwing a new motor into an old tired dog, is not price conscious. A EA81 would honestly be worth quite a bit more in my view. I assume you stumbled across this in your search for a ea81T block for the one you have that is toasted. And the dealers said, nope to the ea81T, nope to a ea81, but sure I got this "EA82" if you want it. I would think there are quite a few new ea82 laying around, probably even at the dealers around here who have been selling Subaru since the loyal came out. I have a EA82 loyale I just bought for 300 and it needs a new motor. But i am not willing to spend 300 on a new motor to put in it, the car has 156k on it, and by the time I would fix everything on the car, i would have over 1500 into it, and it is only worth 800. So i am parting it out.

the only way to make your brat better than the ea81 is a ej22 putting a ea82 in a BRAT is like the same as neuter.....

dunno but someone has been selling a ea61 on ebay brand new asking 95 bucks for it and only 25 for shipping..... I would say probably 250-475, and someone on the airplane community may be willing to pay considerably more..... They just are not really a sought after engine. The cars they go in are pretty cheap beaters these days.

the only thing making it go bad would be moisture, i don't see how moisture can get thru the plastic bottle....

The 83 GL wagon i had, dubbed "rescue wagon" had square tubing welded to it on the rockers for sliders....Think Bratman on here did the work, and i think he had a album showing it being welded, during his mods..... not a very good pic.

04 Limited and a PERFECT color match I used all 4 stock floor mounting holes in the BRAT, with lots of fab'ing to the 04 rails to fit the BRAT floor holes.

salt kills.

very much agree.

I went to FORD dealer, walked onto showroom floor with my 5 gallon bucket of cash bills...enough cash to pay for the focus in cash. Said to the salesperson i would buy the car in cash, IF they ripped out all the active sync microsoft crap in the car. If they threw it the active sync crap in my bucket, I had all day for this. They said the car would not run after rippiing out active sync stuff. I said i will buy in cash if they could sell car without the stuff i didn t want, told them resell the sht, whatever, but i want buying the car with it installed. walked away with my bucket and those salepeople still to this day try to sell me on it. sorry. not going to jump on the bandwagon. I do not own cable TV, do not own cell phone, do not even have a regular doctor, dont have a DVD Player,,,,,,,,,ad for heck do not want a car with that crap on it. EVER>

difference may be in some of the wiring connectors. the 90-94 had the bulk of the harness go to the battery tray area on the front driver left side up by the radiator/battery tray area. The 95+ had the harness connector right above the bellhousing center back of throttle body area. I am not sure but the length of the wiring to the main connectors could easily identify what range you are to begin with.