DaveT

The year doesn't matter. I made the mod in the early 90s. I went to a junk yard, and bought a handful of solenoids. I'm still using the same ones, they just move to the next car.

Never heard of anything like that

I would try running it until it gets to normal operating temp, then try turning it with vise grips. Or if you have an oxyacetylene torch, and know how long to use it.... Not sure if I could do my TIG a jam nut or a washer to the end of the stud trick will work upside down. Why these work is the heat expands and weakens the grip of the corrosion between the bolt / stud and the aluminum, so it is also key to do it while hot. (after the glow from welding [in that case] fades) Tapping on the broken piece with a small hammer after heating also may help break up / loosen the corrosion.

Did a bunch of fiddly work on the transmission going into my 93 Loyale. Align tubing to factory position, clean up drian plug, remove crud from outside of case, un bend brackets, replace rusted off bracket, that kind of stuff. Including the TIG a washer onto the broken off bolt trick to remove a couple of snapped off rear mounting bolts.

That sounds like your trouble. ...

Most likely the purge solenoid is open. I replace them with one from a toyota. There is a link to my Web page about this mod in a few of the similar threads on this forum. The OEM egr and purge solenoids fail often.

I had to do that with my 87. Took the heating system apart, cleaned it with bleach. I put hardware cloth over the openings between the body and the ducts. Don't forget to clean out the passages in the body. I hate mice.

I would have lifted it higher, but I didn't want to wreck the front end, bumper, etc.

That's my Web page. I'm sure the hitch would handle the weight. The car will handle weird with a heavy weight that far back.

This is true, not using it should extend the life.

In mine, the resistor for the slowest speed is always the one that failed. I've taken the second one from spare units, and replaced the failed resistor with it. Slow is not quite as slow, but it's been a permanent fix. I have not had an ECU failure. Been running TBI EA82s since 1992. [My first EA82 had a carburetor, bought in 1988.] I've had a total of 6 TBI EA82s, still have 2 runners, [one is down for transmission work] and a 3rd supplying parts. Of course, now that I've written it, one should fail in a week or so.

One of the places I found ss exhaust parts is verociousmotorsports. SS TIG welds like a dream.

Limited Slip Differential

Coolant temp sensor could do those. I had one go bad, did all sorts of odd stuff. Except the stumble at highway speed.

The only time I've had the o2 sensor code was from a bad o2 sensor. That never effected driveability. Mid 20psi sounds ok for fuel pump. TPS maybe for the surging? Ph, also the coolant temperature sensor can cause random idle rpm and varation at low speeds. Without causing am error code.

A compression test checks the headgaskets. It's been a long time since I had a carburetor. .. is there an idle air control or anti run on valve?

Get security screws?

There's nothing like grinding and hammering bolts off of the original exhaust system on a 1993 to remind you of why you custom made 2 all stainless steel exhaust systems....

a T1 LED on long solid wires Looking at the pump splines. I can't get a good picture. I looked into 3 of them. The stripped one, the one with no noticeable wear, and the intermediate one. Going by the wear on the splines on the pump drive shaft. I can't see clearly enough to tell if the splines on the pump are any different. Right now, I am leaning toward installing the intermediately worn one so I can take the time to disassemble the others and do a good rebuild. I also have a 3AT with no reverse that won't go into 3rd, a 2WD only, and one with a dead differential, but the rest of it is good. While I remove the no reverse no 3rd from the car, I'll think about the options... Any thoughts from here considered also.

Yeah, getting the parts would be cool. I'm afraid the shipping would be unreal!

I picked up a used 3AT. Pulled the pump drive shaft out. The splines are worn a bit on the shaft. I have to try to see what the splines on the pump look like. I have another pump drive shaft from another 3AT that shows no wear. This also makes me want to know what / how these wear. It's a spline in oil, there shouldn't be any sliding to wear them.

That would have to come from someone who has done it. I saw a mention of it somewhere, and it sounds pretty involved. Different connectors, harness, sensors.

I am thinking you are looking for a schematic for the digital dashboard for a 1989

White goop on the cap can happen. White goop on the dipstick is a whole other thing.

There are many connections in the path from the key to the starter. If you can get the diagrams from a factory service manual, it would help you a lot. When I was having a similar intermittent no start problem, I made up a wire with a switch and a clip and a connector. When it was being uncooperative, I would disconnect the start wire from the starter, connect my test cable, clip the clip to + battery, put the key in run and press the button.