Manarius

Meh. The SVX suspension is not the same as the Legacy suspension so I doubt any of the parts would fit nicely.

ABS didn't help me yesterday in the slush. However, neither did my tires. It was a lose-lose situation (luckily I didn't lose anything more than my pride).

Throw into the mix also that JDM transmissions work differently than USDM transmissions. You'd need the JDM TCU to make the JDM transmission actually work. It'd be a big hassle to install that transmission because the electronics are different.

Well, I was in a situation where ABS would have been helpful. Two years ago I slid into a guard rail because my brakes locked up on slush. If I had ABS, I believe I would have been able to at least have avoided the turn rather than cock the wheels and slide straight into the guardrail head on. I like the ABS on my SVX, I wouldn't trade it in for standard.

Air filters are air filters. I use FRAM and have never had problems.

1995 Subaru SVX 174k EG33

It could be a vacuum leak. A few sprays of a can of carb cleaner should nail down where the leak is if there is one.

There are a few guys on the SVX forums (myself included) who haven't been able to figure out exactly why there's hesitation and/or sputtering at cold starts. It hesitates a good bit when the car's cold and my TPS is set to .5v as well.

Search over at http://www.subaru-svx.net. This hesitation has been covered a lot. You might find some information over there you didn't know about.

I don't see why not. Snows and AWD is just as good as Dual Range + Snows...

Repeat thread... In my opinion, a good set of snow tires makes a world of difference. In AWD or 4WD low, the best split you can get 50/50 anyways, so you're not really making any difference. For ease of use, I think AWD is better, but that's for ease.

I don't see why not.

I'm thinking that if you just replaced the pads and rotors and then you got a shake, you probably ought to look at the things you just replaced: your pads and rotors. It doesn't really make any sense that a tire just got out of balance. Like someone said above, maybe the rotors got turned incorrectly causing your shaking.

Are you sure it's not the coil pack? Did you try another one?

And 7 quarts of oil per oil change!

Yeah, you give me 10 grand to do it and I will

Should've used an EG33

Wiring would be a PITA. At least, as far as I know.

Correct. In order to keep both turbos, you'd need a postal or RHD wagon.

You are right in that the MAF tells the ECU how much air is going in, but ignition is affected by that. Sure, the knock sensor works in there as well, but the MAF, as I see it, is a major player. Why do I see it this way? A year ago my MAF went south on me. When the MAF was failing, all kinds of weird things happened. Things such as bucking, knocking, tapping, engine shaking, etc. If the car's reading too much or too little air coming in, the fuel would be adjusted accordingly and the knock sensor would read a bad mixture as knock and adjust ignition accordingly which would make the car just run like crap. It would probably also knock and tap as well. This is why I wonder if the MAF might be the source of your troubles.

I wonder if it's ignition related - having to do with the Mass Air Flow sensor perhaps.

I smell dirty TPS. Dropping out of overdrive is almost always associated with a bad/dirty TPS. The VSS usually has nothing to do with it.

Undo the plug for the fuel pump at the pump or under the back seat. Turn over the car once or twice and voila, no more pressure.

If you got a reading of 0, your car would run like crap. You would be getting the car fixed with haste.

My EJ22 Legacy (130hp) could tow - with ease - about 700lb of mulch in a trailer without brakes. That was an auto as well. Car barely even noticed the weight was there.