subiemech85

nice cracked windshield :-p did you start to lose your exhaust atleast I didn't start to get dizzy good video

check your throttle cable!!

for the fun of it, I pulled off the wastegate line, 10psi!!!!, runs much more lively on the E85 I figure that's not bad for a leaking exhaust maniflold gasket btw: I think the computer is starting to figure out how to behave I'll have to check mileage

but dad's nissan 200 sx with the vg30 6cyl used to run just fine with E85 on a totally unrelated topic, it has a busted crankshaft, not bad after 250k+ but along that line, it's the second crankshaft he broke, the first being a cadillac highly troubled 4.1 I figured that the E85 wouldn't be too bad, as I was having similar but less obvious problem running E10 89 I figured that the 11g I added to the 5g of "regular" should help clean things out it was cheap, $1.78 vs. $2.10 as long as I can run 70+, I'll be fine btw, how does E85 compare to "race gas"

that's right I filled up on 105 octane 85% ethanol timing set at 20*, ambient air temp 30* has low power below 4k occasionally, it wants to cough, sputter, and slowly loose speed when floored, so I have to downshift any suggestions??????

on which issue is the problem? studs can pull threads out of heads

what started it was dad's 84? gl red wagon -- which is now trashwagon 7.2 first one I bought was only $50, had an interference with a powerpole, busted driver side middle window, but it was an '85 d/r wagon with H alloys -- which is now parts, took it to midwest mud fest, what a way to spend day of prom second one I bought was an 84? brat with a topper and "natural windows" trans locked up in 3rd gear, so I put the '85 in it -- it still goes, open ports field racer my current one -- '89 RX http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44427&page=1&pp=10 I bought it becasue I needed something to drive when the roads are covered with snow, and it has a turbo, and lsd otherwise I have a '85 jetta diesel for sale, $2500 and a '81 pickup because I was having a "situation" where I really wanted a diesel pickup, I love it :-p

I used a tire and pallet when I had to pull out the ea81

"If you wanted to remove the rear axles and drive around in RWD, then yes, engaging the Diff Lock would allow you to do so, although it would be quite a strain on your drivetrain, especially that center diff." if you do that, you will go no where remove the front axles and install the stubs -- they are needed to hold the wheels on, unless you're at the junkyard then engage diff lock, push button or turn switch

you should be able to run in rwd if you have diff lock -- which awd does NOT new axles are available, ask someone that broke a bunch

throttle position sensor may need to be re-set check for codes blocked air intake

I have a set, no nuts, no tires, no shine

cameo

it could be the leaking gasket, or something else, possibly part of the vapor recovery system

will they fit? what nuts do they need? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/74sportmag.jpg anyone have pic of them installed on ea82?

you may have better luck with an engine for a "van" type body, as the engine is tilted a steeper angle a VW fox may help, audi fox is totally different just a teaser: http://www.vwcaddyforum.com/pictures/caddyeng11.jpg

the only way to avoid broken axles and do what you are trying to do is go hydraulic

check the fuse :cool: use only OEM fuses from the junk yard! a good fuse will melt the filament, not the plastic

Royal Purple Purple ICE now I just run PG coolant -- it leaks and don't want to take a chance of hurting the critters use a good oil! the HLA TOD will go away! http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4444 http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetail.do?categoryId=82915548&contentId=6030814

when in 1st gear accelerating, it sometimes decides to spit and spudder at 4k and continue to 4.5k, then run fine, which is really annoying and occasionally it likes to play the same game in the 2k range, which is very bad, because I am always in the intersection, so I have to wind it up to 3k to dirve off timing is set @ 20* fuel level is @ 1/2 ambient temp is 0c engine warm why '89 rx maybe it just wants an oil change

1. DO I really need to find a 4 wheel dyno? supposedbly there is only one dyno in the state, and it is 2 wheel 2. what gear should be used? I'm guessing 4th, closest to "direct drive" 3. how high should the rpm be allowed to go? I'm guessing 8,000 , it's a subaru 4. what else?

can only be valid when you measure the same point that doesn't get jacked around custom exhaust, tilted rear dif, broken mudflaps, fender bashing, lift kits, concrete shoes, water wings, etc. would give you different results front "Check the ground clearance by measuring between front end of transverse link attaching bolt and ground." rear "Measue the ground clearance (height of crossmember pipe lowest point from the ground)

mmmmmmmmmm aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa BUN WARMERS!!!!!!!!! I WANT !!!!!!!!!! subaru's version of a heater

keep the RX and learn to drive it like a 10 spd with 2 reverse

I pointed then just had to It was me with the black '85, the one with all the tools, that made it down the "road" the farthest I was more concerned about my tools than anything else :cool: I'm glad it all worked out