MilesFox

Those are 1985 specific mirrors. The mirror heads themselves should swap out with the post. be aware that a 3door(86 and up) has a different angle than wagons/sedans

I beg to differ. They can get there, but only *might* cause a problem. I once observed a pebble rolling around on the top side of an ej22 belt near one of the idlers, just rolling there. it was away from the rotation that it was not wedging. i was entertained. it could have been there for a while. but with all this fuss, you have a non interferance engine, and replacing a spare belt takes all of 10 minutes, in the unlikely event something does break from debris. It is really no more downtime than replacing a flat tire the collective experience with open belts will concede that a failure is less likely than dealing with the frustration of belt covers every time you do routine service.

bridge the terminals at the thermo switch located on the side of the radio near the drain cock. The fan should operate if you jumper the terminals. If so, then the thermoswitch itself is bad. you can wire in a switch at the terminal plug to manually operate. It will operate with the on and acc key position.

turboing a carb block(8.5 compression) is doable, and reliable with stock timing curve. do not overboost beyond stock settings.torque will be improved with the better compression.

The oil gauge reading is normal and is mentioned in the owner's manual. go for a mechanical gauge for accuracy. Otherwise, just keep a proper oil level of 30wt flavor.

I would guess wiper delay control. was it mounted to the kickpanel under the dash, just to the right of the fuse panel?

fill the block by the upper hose first, then fill the radiator after the hose is tight.

failed water pump-leaky weep hole. overheats from it leaking, and inefficiency of the impeller as it corrodes. It will lead to timing belt failure if prolonged.

the bell housing and engine mounts fit the same. use the ea82 flywheel and clutch. you will have to notch the bellhousing for it. you can use the ea82 manifold on the ea81 motor, if you eliminate the EGR and a few other tweaks. use the ea82 exhaust header you will have to lengthen the wires for the disty

you can make it work with the common ground. Gang the front and rear left grounds together, and same for the right. Run each individual positive leads to their assigned speakers. on the stereo side, you can either gang the left front and rear ground wires together, or just use one and tape off the other, same with the right. the front and rear speakers will share the same ground(s) from the left and the right side, respectively.

Otherwise, breaking down the parts should be straight forward, but the rear knuckle is going to be near impossible to remove, as any fastener you wish to remove is behind another part, and then you will find yourself taking EVERYTHING off the hub to get the first bolt, starting with pulling the axle and hub, the backing plate/brake, and then going from there. It would almost be eaisier to get a whole junkyard unit with the lateral and trailing links from the yard, rebuilding that, and then swapping out the whole unit on the car.

Yoi may need a shop press and or acetylene torch to remove the olds bushings. It can be a big job, since ou are into as much work as replacing the parts to get them off the car, just to have to do all the bushings. Tis is most true if you live in a rusty/road salt winter environment.

for 1987, you want to distinguish between ea81 and ea82 style, as they were both in manufacture for 1985-89 at the same time. use the part number that is best relative to these therms: ea81, overhead valve(OHV), hatchback, brat, 4wd 4spd and stay away from ea82 terms such as: overhead cam(ohc), turbo, wagon or sedan or xt, 4wd 5spd some of the boots are interchangeable between some combinations of fwd and 4wd axles. Generally, the outer boot should be the same, but the shaft diameters may be different. It's more of a trick to know which part NOT to get, to avoid having the wrong one. You must be armed with the right part number, and tell the parts counter which part you need, you don't let them tell you, because, otherwise, you are at the will and mercy of someone who has no clue what you are looking for themselves. This is all true for brake and suspension parts regarding these years overlaps, as to not get the wrong brake pads, rotors, drums, struts, or axles. Remember the key terms when shopping, that way you know if you are being presented the wrong part at the counter before placing your order.

the upper and lower radiator hoses will be the same part number, mirror image of install at the generic auto parts retailers, if they only list one part number

Suspect MAF and/or ects(coolant sensor)

Do you want rear disc brakes? i have parts for both 4 and 5 lug(rotor and caliper is the same, backing plates are different. $50 bucks come and get, a steal for that price! take the trans and discs for $200, and pick some bonus parts to take along with.

5sd dual range: original to 88 gl wagon. comes with driveshaft/flywheel/clutch/trans mount/pedl box/blue/grey console plate. $150 takes it all, local pick-up

Sorry, i have had enough of them. I am junking/clearing out of most of my stuff, just keeping the 3door. I have a MAF and a few miscellany from first and 2nd gen legacy. Come get it before i throw it out! I still believe the exhaust setup in combo with auto trans and big wheels is sucking the performance. But then again, its a 250,000 mile car.

following the belt install procedire, with the cam dot up, there will be 2 crank rotations to bring you back to that mark once th belts are on, then, from there, bring up the o deg mark, and that is TDC on #1. install the disy so that the rotor points at the brake cylinder. The rotor will ine up to the right of the screw/clip for the cap. If the rotor is 180 off, just flip the dsty. If you keep track of the rotation sequence, it's foolproof. Tip: the dot on the passenger side cam will be pointing at the hard ridge on the valve cover just above SUBARU when the engine is at TDC for #1

keep the stok y pipe. Run a 2 inch cherry bomb right after the y flange, and straight pipe out to the tail. you can go 2 1/4 for the tail piece for ore sound. I like my exhaust this way, it keeps the torque, and it is quiet unless you are revving the heck out of it, and then is sounds mean! It will idle very quietly. If you make a header, stay with 1.75 inch to your collector

Gauge is horiible. Near zero pressure at idle warm is normal. Teh oil pump seal and the cam tower o-rinds would be cause for the ticking, or lower pressure. The oil pump never fails unless it was starved for oil(driving with NO oil) It's an easy fix if you take the time. Cam twer or ings require removing the cam towers, but it's a good excuse for an all around re-seal, do timing belts and water pump at same time.

Pull the shaft thingee out of the trans and install it to the torque converter, and then reinstall. make sure it seats all the way. it should fall in 3 timese to seat, as well as fit over the circlip. it is generally best to leave the torque converter on the trans when pulling the motor, consider doing the seal there, since they can leak.

I have always wanted one. It was the 4wd wagon that i desired before discovering subaru. I remember reading an issue of 4wheeler magazine, in the back article, about an amc for off road. The editorial replied about how it would need a body lift to work, but otherwise, swaps with jeep for driveline parts. And i thought to myself "Subarus are body lifted all the time" So therefore an amc eagle with a ody lift a'la Subaru would be more capable as a jeep would be.

Do head gaskets, it's worth it(if the bottom end is not overcooked. 3 out of 4 cars can be viable with only junking one of them, or have a 4th complete car with all the worst parts, with the best parts on the other 3. Doing the head gasket means that you do not have to sacrifice a whole car for just a motor. Put your best motor into the one you can sell for the most, and do the head gaskets on the one bad engine, and save it for the next car, pr put it in the one you will keep for yourself.

well, if it's not your first time, than maybe it's a 'lame' switch, log, lump, cold, what have you. impotent?