MilesFox

i can do a clutch by myself within 3 hours, using an engine crane. pulling the motor would be the fastest route. the moto really only needs to come forward about 4 inches, as long as you dont need to remove the flywheel to do the rear seal.

i left the covers off of my xt6, and tied the dipstick to the fan shrouuds since it mounted to the cover itself. do the belt and leave the covers off. if the covers are off, you can revisit the water pump without having to remove anything if you dont do the WP now. i always run open belts. nasioc will tell you otherwise because they drive new cars that they are afraid to break, and go by speculation. my ej22 legacy still runs with a stick hanging out on one of the idler pulleys/ the stick is only there because i parked alongside a building with bushed and brush sticking up. the stick would eventually kick out if i didnt remove it.

add some speed, cut the wheel, jab the brake, she can do it! even a fwd soob can get sideways. i'll show you....

is the vacuum canister hooked up? the "T" goes between the intake manifold and the egr solenoid, and then to the vac canister. on automatic trans, it splits off to the bellhousing for the vac modulator.

i'm jealous. the same car around here goes for 900 bucks and full of rust because some hillbilly has a golden turd needing brakes and engine seals. good find, very nice!

when you go to add coolant after the job is done, fill the block from the upper radiator hose, since the thermostatis on the bottom and you will have a huge air bubble until the thermostat opens. good luck and have fun

I've got a 3.9 rar diff laying around if you can use it. good luck and welcome to the forums. see you in wisconsin!

sounds like you have a stripped hub. the axle is turning with the front diff and turnoing the speedo, but if you look at the hub, the axle is spinning and the hub is not. hub failures are caused by loose axle nuts. the hub is softer metal than the axle, and its splines will go. you can replace the hub using the same axle to get goin on the road again. any 4 lug hub will work regardless of model, year, or driveline. the hub bolts onto the rotor, you can probably get one for 10 bucks

you found the right place for old subarus. I see you are from wisconsin. I am in milwaukee, along with a few others on this forum and others. maybe you can come to one of our meets one of these days. see you around!

what year is your spfi? 85 and 86 are similar, and 88 up are similar. 1987 is more electrically similar to 1988, but a lot of the connectors are more similar to 1986, sort of a hybrid of evolution. i do recall empty plugs near the firewall. since you mentioned round plugs with blue and yellow wires, i would think they go to the cooling fan and thermoswitch on the radiator for 1987 the yellow and blue wires would kick on the fan if they were touched together, or connected to the thermoswitch. i'm pretty sure its the cooling fan circuit after re-reading your post. good luck

once you make 10 posts you have access to those featurea. just go around and reply to a few threads or ask another question, you will be there by then.

there is a clip inside the cup of the inner axle, once you remove that, the cup slides off and you can disassemble the axle that way. for the front, you have to pop the end off using a bench vise and a hammer, and some sort of brass drift if you dont want to nick anything. yes you can run in 4wd with only one axle. this is how its done without permanent modifications. just dont go doing clutch drops and you will be fine.

sweet deal on the gasket set. retail price is towards 150. pull the whole engine, it will make the effort much easier. go ahead and do a new water pump (short pump, 105mm, bolts instead of studs) and replace the oil pump o-rings. although the rear seal rarely fails, there is a breather plate with a cork gasket that should be serviced it takes roughly an hour to drain and disconnect and pull the motor. once out in a 5 hal bucket, milk crate, or engine stand, it will take about 4 hours to disassemble, clean, and reinstall the heads and seals. its a good idea to replace the turbo coolant hoses under the intake to avoid future problems. keep the coolant full and the rad cap loose to drive it home, you will be ok, run the heat, and if it gets cold, add coolant. its easiest to pull the engine with the turbo, exhaust, and intake intact with the engine. place a hjack under the tranny to raise the motor over the crossmember. you onlt need to disconnect the downpipe from behind the turbo for the exhaust. good luck and have fun.

make sure the flat washers ar enot on backwards, ans this might be why the nuts were loose to begin with. the washer is bowl shaped, hwere the rim of the bowl is against the hub, and the bottom of the bowl against the nut.

run with the heat on, and if the heat is cool, its time to add coolant. there may be an air bubble from when you filled it. sometimes its tricky to bleed all the air out, and its equally important to have the thermostat open to get all the air out.

not running and complete, you should get between 200-and 300 dollars from someone who would take the time to repair it. as a running car its worth about 1000-1200 per book value. if you are interested in getting rid of it, try posting it for sale and see what you get. theoreticallyyou could get more parting it off, but removing parts will be more work than actually repairing it, and you would have to sell off enough to make your 300 bucks. otherwise you sell a door and a fender, the car is no longer complete for anyone to consider buying the whole car.

I would suggest replacing the woater pump; here is a story of mine relative to what you might expect. I went to look at a 95 legacy for sale. owner said the water pump needed replaced, as it would overheat. the car sat for 9 months. We added water and warmed the engine up. I watched the gauge and waited for the thermostat to open. the engine would boil over. we replaced the thermostat and tried again. coolant would not move through, and the temp gauge would rise before the heat came on. the next week i bought the car with the intentions of replacing the water pump. i drove the car the 5 blocks to my house. the water pump seized and melted the timing belt a block from my house. the next afternoon we were back on the road with a spare used pump and belt. this car had 200,000 miles the impeller rusts out reducing efficiency, and eventually will fail at the baring(leak or seizure) take the tome to replace the water pump, and take the opportunity to replace the front engine and cam seals, and put on a new belt. you will go another 100,000 miles without problems if you take care of this 'routine' maintenance

Dr. Dre and Snoop Doggy Dogg would approve.

is the timing belt installed prperly? how about the firing order. sounds like timing belt out of phase, or crossed plug wires

lower mile cars will be approaching service intervals, whereas higher mile cars have already seen major service. if you are shopping for a later model, shop in the 150,000 mile range with a good maintenance record. the car will cost you less, and have less upcoming maintenance issues. you can probably find a 96 with 200,000 miles for under 2,000 bucks. i picked one up for 540 dollars with a crooked bumper. just be aware that anything under 100,000 miles is going to be due for timing belts and water pump, so make sure any car you look at has an extensive maintenance history. avoid trade-ins that just expired the warranty period, unless the dealer took care of all the 100,000 mile maintenance before putting it on the lot.

i had sobs that would work with viirtually any key due to worn lock cylinders. i did however, have an 87 rx and an 88 sedan that coincidentally had the same key cut, and either key would work in either car in any lock or ignition. when i go junk'n, i'll keep the keys to cars i have already gone through. i got a key ring with some 25 keys laying around. every now and again a random key will fit in a random car. if i remember right, something like 1 out of every 65 subarus will have the same key code

i like to refer to this model as a pre-outback, since it is the outback trim line the year before going with the frame spacers and the taller wheels and lower gear. this trim seems to be 95 only, this car is exactly like the one i had as trashwagon8, except this one is auto where mine was stick.

it's been a while since i took welding class, but you will want to make your first bead to join the parts together, and then overlap your beads on each side to both pieces of metal. you can build up and fill in with multiple overlapping beads. a stick welder would be best for this type of welding. placement of the ground will determine how your weld will penetrate, depending on if you ground the existing frame, or ground the new metal. with a stick setup, you can do reverse polarity as well. sorry i am not knowledgeable enough to explain further. all of my experience is with crappy flux core welders. make sure you get a nice puddle going before advancing you beads, and push the electrode into the direction of the weld, with small circular or back and forth motions to keep the puddle fluid.

come on gary, no one is that daft.

please all, help jim out on this one. i am 350 miles away and don't have time to look at it, as i have been requested to do so. you guys just ask if there is spark and walk away. at least get some process of elimination going on. New cam and crank sensor, and different coil pack. jim, there is an ignitor module on the firewall just above the pitch bar. i have a harness for a 95 2.2, i can send you that part if yours is bad. so far we have verified a NO SPARK situation. jim, sorry i have been too busy to hollar back at you. desmond and i are planning a trip to dayton for a brat, and i'll see if i can stop by this weekend on the way through. expect me to show up out of the blue, that is probably how it will go. i'll bring some spare parts if i know i'll have the chance to stop through, this weekend sometime 4/17-4/18