MilesFox

i think white would look appropriate if the choice is narrowed down between black or silver i would go with black and the silver bead ring

threads are 1.25 its a tricky thread to find so once you source one keep your business there. other bolts are m8x1.25 and m10x1.25 the only other bolts are the flywheep bolts at m10x1.50 and the pressure plate bolts m8x1.0

to be ironic i live within an hour of both these guys. john i was thru CLEVELAND this last week on my way out to the BABE RALLY in my toyota camper. we brought back team "babe patrol" ea82 87 gl wgon front wheel 5spd. Those guys were from columbus and picked up their car in new hampsire. we brought it back with us as they were flying back. desmond jones has the car and he is in waukesha. i have the day off and a full tank of gas. i also have a pile of subarus in sun praire, the 87 rx, 88 4wd converted sedan, and 87 gl10 turbo wagon with the rx's diveline. i have parts take them away from me! this guy (Nug)went i met im in butler indiana wen we got together for some baja'n and he was there on the babe rally. last year i went in the trashwagon replica nd it blew up in the mountains of virgina. we sold it the other day to a guy in illinois from pennsylvania

you would want to use a heavy enough hammer to have heavy pushing forces rather than quick sharp forces from some puny hammer. it is a spring clip, once you break the tension of the inner race slipping by the rest just pops off. it is cery similar to the spring clip on an axle stub, if you have ever accidentally pulled the stub out with the axle on a transmission this is EXACTLY the way the outer cv is tied together. reassembly you would tap the axle bck thru the race once the balls are assembled and lubed

you proboably would have to split the block in half to get out the rods and crank. you would be surprized how easy it is to pull a subaru motor, as it is a standard procedure for a lot of stuff especially if you take the heads off. for 100,000 miles that is still fairly low, a lot of the ones i see have about 135-185k miles. the re-ring isnt necessary if the car rins and drives like it is, why dont you wait till the motor has better tha 225,000 miles before all that. run straight 30 weight oil

the babe rally is a STREET SAFARI event so your event may be the same people. street safari is fom europe and the babe rally is the first incarnation of this malarky in the USA

it was fun times. i went last year in the trashwagon although it broke down before i got there, but i did catch up on day 2 to run 40 miles of the rally on 2 cylinders and no coolant before we had to abandon it in virginia. tim hansen got TOP GEAR magazine their car and they were with the convoy that joined the trashwagon off the side of the road so since it was the only car that broke down it got a picture in las october's issue of TOP GEAR there was some sort of press this year by automobile magazine, or the babe will be published in RIDES magazine coming up towards fall as far as the question of the car being all stock, do rubber ducks come oem on a chrysler van? basically the car has to be for less than 250 bucks and you can do whatever you want with it. most of you can already go in cars you already have. i went this time in my toyota camper next year i may run the trashwagon replica again and hopefully have the rx put back together, the sedan and the legacy as well, for those who would want to go and dont have a car, just drive all of mine anyway there were 3 subarus this time so hopefully we can have more next year. you guys dont know what you are missing!!!!

the line off the frame is the fuel tank vent line, the other line on the intake is the vac manifold for the purge control.

you will need the trans crossmember and the bolts and rubber bushings. the longer bolts replace a regilar bolt on each of the trianguloid radius plates. the space there the AT's mount is would be a metal plate on the MT. dont forget the driveshaft! the MT driveshaft is longer on the front half becahse the transmisson is shorter than AT the axles will fot on the stubs. you will need the bolts for the flywheel since they are longer than the ones on the flexplate

you may see these codes when the car is not running. the vss will relate to the speedometer.

the intake will come off in one piece. mainly the tougfh thing to figure out is the water passage piping. all the harness will come up with the intake.

look tyo see if the rotor is turning while cranking. if not, then there is your problem

is the timing belt broken?

WHY does it come on? the doors are unlocked WHAT does it mean? the doors are not locked HOW do I get it off? lock the doors its there to remind you if any of the doors are not locked, a child-safety feature

so long as the airbags on the struts arent leaking usually they leak at the nylon lines where they meet the junctions. the o rings leak, sometimes simply wiggling the line will make it stop. try some suilicone spray or pb blaster to rejuvinate the o-rings. you will find o rings at the tops of the struts and at the compressor junction itself inside the driver's fender. in some instance you can double up the o rings. some of this is not permanent fixes but it will get you by until replacing the suspension, at leas to keep the compressof from bugging out. if the compressor runs constantly the alternator wont like it

make sure you have all the same size tires engage teh 4wd when going straight and the wheels straight. dont turn on dry pavement. if it binds up try reversing to disengage go into some loose surface to engage/disengage 4wd

bust 'em off. remove the bolts. done.

if you are not worried about keeping the trims you can use a flat screwdriver and ahammer to pust them off at the clips from behind the rubber.

you may have to cut out a nothc for 5th and reverse in the shifer hole, as i had to do with my "home made" lift

if you ask for a "subaru " o2 it may be more expensive than the "generic" unit, the only difference is you will have to add the spade terminal to the generic unit. its the bosch single wire

here is a long shot but try making a ground lead for the o2 sensor from the heat shield to the firewall, if the o2 doesnt have a good ground thru the exhaust pipe

dont worry about the heads. some rust in the cylinder wont hurt, if you have the heads off to clean it out. use pb blaster its good asnd a scotch brite pad. dont worry about the little furrs off the brillo pad if you get most of it out the remains will burn off anyway. i had a motor that was seized because it sat outside with water in the cylinder but it made a good block for a turbo build, which the heads had the same cracks, and then ported out with a dremel

toyota bolts are generally x1.00 threads. or was it x1.50? i do know its different. but that makes sense if they thread into soob exhaust holes if they are stripped out

i live in madison. i work at the u-haul on the east side 22 atlas ct. I have been the 'travelling subaru mechanic" i have done work from here to west virginia and back. I dont have a garage but ihave a driveway, and the wash bay at u-haul. i dont get much heavy into working on cars lately(driveline swaps) but i can handle a timing belt job in one occasion. anyway you can find me in the labor/move section of the madison craigslist, i do moving labor too, i got that u-haul truck www.trashwagon.com/truck

napa 1361 gold, silver 21361, wix 51361 napa and wix are the same napa in-house oil is rebadged valvoline you can crossreference a ford 5,0 filter that will fit on the ea81/ea81 oil pump i have one in my camper, a toyota as far as replacing the hla do the seafom first and see what that does. also another reason for ticking is the o-ring on the oil pump gets sucked in. you can use a dab of silicone to hold the seal in place when you install.