MilesFox

with the timing covers off, where is the dot on the passenger side. it should be in line with the top rib of the flat part below the word subaru. if it is anywhere else the alignment would be off. i have seen one particular spfi chunk a gear on the cam causing the disty yo skip a tooth. what caused this was a loose cam retainer because a previous mechanic stripped the bolt holes, allowing the cam to walk if you are getting spark you may want to consider this. also, take the disty bolts out so you can turn the dist beyond its range, and try different positions to see if it starts. have someone crank while you fanagle the disty. of course finding a used coil bracket for cheap is a good place to start a process of elimination. but generally if the ign amplifier goes bad, the car will start, and then die after it runs a while. try pulling engine codes, see if the crank angle sensor code comes up. if so, replace the disty. also, read this and run through the timing belt procedure and double check your alignments. having changed the cap or rotor, check to make sure the little nugget inside the cap hasnt fallen out

give me a "D" --felony that is, for drawing on the jail walls. i wonder if the search will bring me legal advice yeah jim, i saw the little pins on the ends. but what makes them let go to begin with if thay are still there? and rolling up the spring, how can it let go to begin with if the pins were never removed? anyway i tried the advance search function by post and would you know it the first 5 results are the posts on this very thread. sometimes searching for specific topics will only bring you posts that are asking and telling to search. so if you search for an answer the answer usually is to search jim, you should get a FSM to have ready and waiting at your keyboard:rolleyes:

you will want to check your timing distributor alignment to 0degbtdc. the rotor will point to #1 cyl, its the farthest back terminal on the cap, the rotor will point to the hill holder spring the firing is 1324, #1 is on the passenger side front cyl.

i will bet it pulls a crank angle sensor code, causing the surging idle. this was the problem on the 4x4 conversion sedan we had

yeah if they thread in you are good, just use some lock tire to keep them there. you dont want mad gobs of torque on them cause you dont want to damage the thread in the aluminum, hence the lock-tite

the B will face inside the motor, so it faces the same way as the B on the pump shaft. sometimes the seal likes to fall out of place when you install the 'pump. but if the B faces out that is not right, but i dont see how that would make it leak. what about the pressure relief bolt or any of the plugs on the front/bottom of the pump?

i was reading about ea81 for aircraft use and it stated the ea81 8s 8.7 compression general knowledge around here says 8.5 for carb. maybe 8.5 or 7 for ea81 and 9.0 for ea82 carby

if you decide to opt to remove the spacers you can make up the length by using an ea82 y-pipe yes the studs are 1.25 10mm metric threads, its kinda an odd size to find but napa will have them listed as "import exhaust studs" i have also seen them in the HELP section at advance auto. you can find some if you are lucky at a hardware stoor, preferrably one of theold school ones that have bins and bins of bolts and nuts. if the thread is not cut along the entire length of the studs install the short end, use brass nuts if you can find them also. install the studs using lock tite on the head threads and anti-seize on the nuts thread

hey that is good time! did you have a lift. pulling the tranny would probably be easiest with the car in the air! one clutch i did, i did with teh motor separated from the bellhousing and slung slightly from a crane, just enough to get the PP around the input shaft. i pulled the rad and the heater hoses, but i did not have to disconnect anything else from the motor except for the intake rubber tube from the MAF and the y-pipe. took me about 2 hours, but i was taking my time and going back and forthe between working on 2 cars with jim wood and myoss feece

if there would be any differences id would be by manufacture and construction, but the head gaskets are the same shape and pattern for turbo an non one example if you get the napa ea82 engine gasket set, the kit comes for all gaskets for turbo, spfi, and carb, thus the same head gaskets can be used on either one

correct me if im wrong, but i believe the rx rear springs are that of the WAGON

the one with 2 wires going to a green clip.

yo iluvdirt was over today and he says there are places to go boja'n. looks like Subaru Alliance meet 3 will be this coming this may again.

axle will fit. governor is probably bad. if the car does not go maybe the frobnt diff, as there is a separate fill tube for GEAR OIL, and people mistake this for atf and goodbye front diff. autos for 85 and 86 have the 3.7 final rear diff, as the 5spds have a 3.9. if the 85 is in better shape, all the 5spd stuff will swap in to replace the automatic. if you have to find a new tranny for the auto, just get another 5spd and the parts to it

are you sure the timing is right? the crank rotation is 360 deg. if its backfiring i think a cam bay be off

well if they still have it watch them tell you you have bent valves bacause they dont know how to line up the timing belts to the correct marks if they finish the job and the car dont run right ask for all of your money back. anyway i have seen 2 card bought for CHEAP because they barely ran after having them fixed. both sellers said the mechanics told them they had a bent valve(from broken timing belt replacement). in reality they lined both cams up instead of opposite, and lined them up to 0degbtdc instead of the 3 marks on the flywheel

if anything left it may have settled in the bottom of the cooler? anyway, i wouldnt worry about it the magnetic plug will take care of the rest. i dont think these particles would be in the lines since they are heavier and will settle into the pan, and not circulate thru the lines. your fluids will be fine obviously you know about the 2 fill tubes

one of the plugs is behind the flywheel northwet the chain method is a smart idea

koolies i would like to see it! this is what we all need when someone takes the time to put all the information floating about into one resource for easy reference!

try checking all the o=rings, wiggle the lines and see if you an hear any air. pb blaster will rejuvenate o-rings as it says on the can. if the plastic prongs that hold the lines are too floppy try double stacking the the o-rings with extras. i did this to jim woods car and narrowed down all the leaks in the system, traced it to a hole in the airbag on the front strut. in this case the compressor ran constantly and put undue stress on a few alternators. if the hole was repairable i would have kept the system in place if it were my car.

i use a box end 10 or 12 mm wrench here's how. the wrench has an open and box end. use one of the pressure plate bolts to hold the box end to the flywheel. butt the open end against the bellhousing stud. you can use this method forward or reverse, for unbolting or torquing up! very easy

turbo ports are actually larger, if you get exh gaskets from napa they come with 2 sets, one is smaller than the other

yo what is the part number for the snapon and who carries them? sorry to jack...i was helping my buddy tear down an lsd, but his 3/8 dr socket was to no avail, the bolts were rusty anywat, we got them off by torching them with acetylene! anyway, we torched the bearings so how do you get the bearings off?

yo, running in rwd makes the steering light and easy! no torque steer, drive with your pinky