SOOBOUTLAW

My EGR valve gasket is a little leaky and makes it backfire when I shut the motor off. Freaks out the gas station attendants. Plus, cool four foot flame out the back.

Yeah, I need to take an emissions test to register my Brat. But if they sent my wagon to the State Patrol for a sound test, I'll have to stuff the glasspack with steel wool to muffle the rumble to legal specs:grin: .

Found a hookup on a used Weber for $120. Gonna check it out on Saturday.

I've had a cable slip off the linkage once and kept the motor revving high. Don't know how it did that though(slip off).

I've never heard of a diesel with 9.5:1 compression, that seems real weak to ignite diesel.

I've been meaning to make a block plate for the EGR valve on my rig with some 1/4" plate scrap metal laying around.

Did you drill 6 lug rims to fit the 4 lug pattern?

Only a Subaru (or a quad or dirt bike) can fit on a HIKING TRAIL:grin: .

I have yet to find one at PAP. Only seen the LSD sticker in a pix from this site. I always scrape the grease off the diffs to check, but I've noticed others do the same. Competition anyone?

Yeah, the moustache bar is wierd shaped, I could make something out of square steel that'll be just as functional, with more clearance.

Overhauled the carb, it was gunked up. Don't think it helped anything. I might do a full rebuild(I got a kit laying around and at least two Hitachis for the kit, maybe two more in storage and another Hitachi mechanical secondary, I have sooo much Subaru parts everywhere!!). I hope to buy a used Weber on Saturday. I might be on the market for an adaptor or two, both EA81 and EA82(my JDM EA71 carb seems to have same baseplate as EA82). I might just swap an EA82 manifold on the Brat (probably will). That spfi swap GD is doing sounds cool.

They are heavier. More material.

Yup, pretty sure the carb now. Just took her for an illicit spin (haven't registered yet cuz I gotta pass emissions, and the current tabs expired in June of 01). Not even warmed up, squacked the tires at low rpm from the stop sign on level ground(this motor is soooo smooth and quiet and healthy), but halfway up a hill around the corner from my house, crapped out again. Made a u-turn and coasted back home. Will a Weber pass emissions, especially all the junk that'll be removed when installed? Or, do I have to modify the float bowl thingie so it never cuts off fuel? Cuz I will if I have to. Just for emission test, or I should move somewhere emissions isn't required. Test is way cheaper than moving.

Do you guys cast Weber adaptors?

Where you 4by'n at?

I'm gonna swipe Hatchy's Weber. He's in Vancouver WA on a new job. But his hatch is still in Everett. But, I have his old Hitachi laying around somewhere, I'll try that first maybe.... or not.

Why stop ar reproductions? Go full blown custom.

Ultra copper is Permatex gasket sealant I believe. If you use the paper gaskets, soak them in water for an hour, they seal great for a long time (in my experience). But it's not as good as oem metal gaskets.

No computer, I checked under the dash. The fuel pump still pumps, the coil still sparks. This is really driving me nuts. It's the first time I can't fix a problem on a car. And I've worked on lots of cars (backyard mech). Many of the probs on my '80 wagon have been fixed by bypassing and improvisions. But, I'd like to fix the Brat as stock as possible.

Nah, the usual mud on the back of my rims. Just wondering if anyone had rotor gunking issues.

My '83 Brat EA81 just won't stay running. So far, I've changed both fuel filters, swapped carbs, coils, fuel pumps, dropped a nice 20k rebuilt motor, removed the fuel tank and cleaned it and the fuel lines real good, cleaned the PCV valve and hose (nasty) and Seafoamed (cool smoke show). Nothing. I drove it home when I bought it in May. Crapped out half way home, but managed to get it going again. It drives, but craps out when it warms up. BTW, the new motor is SWEEEEEET! It's not engine related, but I just can't figure it out. It's like one post on 'you know you're a soob owner if... there is no sciencific explanation it won't run, yet it wont".

Schuck's website Partsamerica.com lists GCK axles at $93, but want a $40 core each:eek: .

You got sales tax in Oregon now?

My '80 wagon's ignition switch is shot too, so I just put a toggle switch under the dash and put a push button starter by the auxilary switch hole next to the ig switch. Love it, don't have to fumble with keys, plus no one can start it but me. It got stolen once when some punk juvie used a key in the ig switch before it broke.

My Haynes says 15-25 ft/lb, my Chilton says 19-22 ft/lb. If the stud holes strip, get m10 1.25 Helicoil. SAE has no place on a metric vehicle. Has caused me problems cuz I had to dig up my SAE tools when I should only have to use metric.