Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, I use those on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since many years ago My advice is: ► Choose a Grease intended for C.V. Joints, not a cheap, soapy universal grease. Rubber Boots: I Suggest you to use Always the Subaru Original Rubber Boots. Even Using Cheap C.V. Joints... ...Because other Brands Doesn't last very much. Subaru designed one Short Boot to be Used at the Wheel's Side (outer Boot), and one Long Boot to be Used on the Gearbox Side (inner Boot), the Difference could be Seen in this Drawing: Since both Boots does have the Same opening Measurements, their only difference is that one is Longer than the other, it does Not make any Sense to Use the Short Boot; Specially considering that the Wheel side does Much more Effort due to the Steering Turns that Stretch 'em many many times per trip. My advice is: ► Use the Longer Rubber Boot at Both ends. Because the inner Boot (Longer) Works Perfectly in the Place of the Outer Boot (Shorter). Being Longer aids the Boot to Handle Better the Continous Stretchings from the Steering Turns; so it Will Last Very Longer than the Short one, holding there the Grease, and the longer boot helps to elongate the C.V. Joints' Lifespan on Lifted rigs, because it compensates the increased angle of the axles. Also I've Found that a Simple Driving Behaviour can Make C.V. Joints to Last much more longer: To Relief Pressure from C.V. Joints while doing U-Turns; let me Explain: C.V. Joints works as you can see on the Followin' Animation: So, when you do a U-Turn, the Balls goes from one Side to Another very very Fast; if Acceleration is Forced (in Example while Accelerating the Engine) the Balls will go Faster and harder with the Extra Pressure and shearing against the walls, and that will Worn them and their Holding Basket very Fast, also their C.V. Joint's base. ► My Advice is: Do the U-Turns Just with vehicle's Impluse. Give to the Vehicle enough Speed and leave the gas pedal while doing the U-Turn, also you could Place the Shifter in Neutral Gear (or Press the Clutch Pedal to the Bottom) in manual transmission vehicles; only while the Car is Turning, that Releases the pressure from the C.V. Balls ... ...it makes Miracles in C.V. Joint's Life! One last thing that might Help, is the Use Good Quality Zip Ties, instead the Metallics with Razor's Edge that could Cut the Boot; I'm Using those in many cars since 1999 with Great Results! ... Even in my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can See in this Photo below: They'll Stay right there if Properly adjusted and be Sure to obtain the Best Quality that you can buy, not the toughest ones because those are too hard for the application. Two Things are the Most important in C.V. Joints' life: ► Grease: If a Boot Fails, you must Hurry up to Change it along with new, fresh Grease, as soon as possible, so Weekly (or Sooner) inspections to the Boots are Highly recommended. ► Driving Behaviour: if you Usually Force the C.V. Joints, (i.e: like Burning Tires in U-Turns) they'll Break soon. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.

Dropping the Engine Crossmember. (This must be Posted in the "Older Generation" Forums...)

An Oil Catch Can, Works like This: I Found this Tiny Oil Catch Can with Filter: But I Don't like the Idea of a Replaceable Filter

Hi All! ... ... Please Correct me if I'm Wrong, this is for my EA82 Wagon. if I Have a PCV Setup like This one... (This Awesome Clean EA82 Engine Belongs to Kanurys) ...and my EA82 is Blowin' Oil thru the PCV setup, I Must install an Oil Catch Can, Right? Recently I Obtained an Oil Catch Can that Looks similar to This one: The Questions Are: Should I Hook it Between the Driver's side Head Hose and the PCV intake Valve, isn't it? The Passenger's Side Hose Doesn't need any Oil Catch Can 'cos it will only "Suck" Air from the Air Filter's Box, at the Carb... isn't it? Any Suggestion, advice or Idea will be Greatly Appreciated. Kind Regards.

The Fuel Filter Must have a Pointing Arrow, which indicates the Fuel Flow... That Arrow is the Filter's Outlet and must be Hooked to the Hose that Brings Fuel to the Carb. Kind Regards.

¡Gracias! / Thank You! ... ... For all your Kind Words, which are Highly appreciated. My Dad will Try to go to the Police Yard this Week to get the 2.7 out of there, as Soon as the PaperWork is Finished... Kind Regards.

Found interesting info about the Famous 4EAT (Four Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission) Used by Subaru since some Loyale EA82 Models: So my Wife's Kia Sephia has the 4EAT (Named F-4EAT) too http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of..._transmissions

Have you Checked the Carb for open ports?

More than a Week has Passed... Did the Idea Worked for your Subie?

To Post a Picture, First Upload it to a Free Pics Host Website, like Photobucket; then just open the Uploaded picture and Right Click over it: "Copy" the Pic, then here you just need to do another Right Click in the Post You're Writin': "Paste" the Pic... and Voilá. Kind Regards.

...No Words Needed

I Discovered that Long time Ago... When I Purchased Brand New "Gates" Pre-Bent Hoses for my EA82 Wagon and Both had the Same Shape, but Different Part Number. But Both are Equal... Kind Regards.

Sometimes I Fixed that situation in another cars by "Wrapping" somehow the Pipe's Metal, cutting the Shape Around the Connection Area, but it Depends on how Much Metal is Exposed and Useable from that Connection... I Believe that the Cheapest Solution is to Obtain another "Y" Pipe from a Donor Subie... Kind Regards.

I Forgot to Write that Not all Alternators have their Regulators Built inside, The ones that Have it, have a Sticker that Says somethin' like: "IC Regulated" The Ones Without Built in Regulators, send their Output Power Lines to a Black Box (Usually) with Size around 3" Wide X 2" Tall and 2" Deep (Not Exact Measurements, just to give you an Idea) Which is an External Regulator. Pics of your Setup Could do Magic to Figure out the Issue. Kind Regards.

if you Replaced the Alt with an Used one, that Doesn't Mean it is OK. I Kindly Suggest you to Use a Voltmeter and Check how much Output gives the Alt, under Acceleration and at idle Speeds, and Give us Feedback to Help you. Kind Regards.

Thank you for your Answer and the Great Pics... I Like your Subie. Don't you have a Pic of the Whole Car? Kind Regards.

if you can Weld, Buy some 2" Metal Pipe and Weld in the New Segment... Also maybe you can do a Junk Yard Search... Good Luck!

Also: Bad Alternator's Regulator for Sure!

Thanks for your nice Words! The Legal procedures are about to finish, so We'll Wait to See How the Situation Ends... I Haven't Traveled to my Parents' HomeTown to see the Crashed 2.7 Wagon Yet, due to my Job ... ... also I got a horrid Gout Foot attack, as you can Read here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113927-holy-cow-gout-foot/ So Sometimes Things could become Even Worse! ... ...

I Don't Think your Wagon is Crappy...

Yes, Good Question... Maybe from Someone who is here, in USMB? I'll Like to See Pics of your Subie... Kind Regards.

I Remember that they Called us: "the USMB Refugees" when our Website went offline in 2008 and some of us started postin' there... I Changed the 8 Front Bolts from my EA82 Wagon, the ones that Holds the Rims... The Old ones were worn.

I Was About to Suggest to Search for Vacuum Leaks, but since you already Found that the Accelerator Pedal Does not Return all the Way up, Let me Tell you that I Had the Same Problem and I Solved it easy: Adding a Return Spring to the Accelerator at the Carburetor. I Really will Like to See Pics of your Brumby, Specially the "Winter / Summer" Rare Switch... Sounds Very interesting. Kind Regards.

Same Here... Gotta Love my Caribbean Country!!! I've Repaired Rust with New Welded Panels and Then, Prior to do Primer Paint, I Use an Industrial Anti-Rust Paint epoxy Compound, which is Black and its Finish is very Thick. Something Similar to This Product.

I've Repaired some cars that Looked like That, using Welded Panels... I Believe it is a Better Idea. Kind Regards.