Uberoo

What are you trying to accomplish? Mount them as close to front as possible for maximum heat extraction.Mount them as close to the windshield for maximum air intake.

Top the OP: You Don't have to replace ALL lines with high pressure stuff.The fuel return and the vapor lines can be just stock carb stuff.or new carb line if yours is old and rotted out. Some might say to replace all the lines but the return usually doesn't have any pressure in it.Same with the Vapor line. Just one way to help you save a bit of money..

It is my understanding that the transmission in 89s were not computer controlled.So therefore the ecu just needs something to tell it if the car is gear or not.I am working on striping a harness from an 89 FWD GL auto.It might be different but it looks like the brake needed to be pressed to start the car.Or it might need the assortment of inhibitor switches and whatever that autos have. However, I think the inhibitor switch on the ECU is grounded if auto and open if manual.So if there is voltage/continuty on that pin computer thinks its a auto,if not, then computer thinks its a manual. But then I don't know much maybe the FWD autos are different from 4wd autos..

harness came from an 89 FWD auto GL sedan.it doesn't appear to have a transmission ECM so im guessing its transmission isn't electronically controlled.Or the ECU wont work in a manual...

theres two "wires".Actually 4 wires, but two of each pair are bundled into round connectors.A white connector with a large white wire and a smaller yellow wire and a yellowish connector with a blue with white stripe, and a blue with yellow stripe. The large white on the white connector Ties into the wire going to the BLACK fusible link.The yellow wire on the white connector goes to some connector that I don't know what its for.The connector is broken so it just has three wires going to it. the yellowish connector: the blue/white goes to what used to be the ac condenser.The blue/yellow goes to the AC compressor. all four wires from the two connectors on the other side go to those relays that were by the vacuum reservoir. So Im guessing Both connectors white and yellow are the AC stuff.the white connector contains the power and the yellow contains the switching wires. So can anyone verify that the relays by the vaccum reservoir are AC stuff and can then be cut out.

good guesses but they weren't connected to the radiator.Its as if the wires were intentionally connected together from the factory. from what ive determined The wires connected to the harness on the passenger side of the car.from there they went into the firewall.A couple wires went to the relays/junk on the inner fender on the passenger side,In the same location as the vacuum reservoir.Then some wires went into the inner fender and emerged up front by the passenger side headlight.Just to go over to the other side with that bundle of stuff under the rad.

I already pulled the harness.I am just trying to prepare it for an SPFI conversion on my ea81 offroad toy.The wires in question have connectors near the passenger side headlight.one side of the connectors goes into the passenger side fender, the other goes along with the other wires along the bottom of the rad support across to battery/fuseable links,etc...then pack into the car.I havent torn the harness down all the way yet..so I have no idea where they go...

Jibs, tube doors would be nice but: I dont have anything to make decent looking tube doors.That and you actually have to go and buy steel...

On an SPFI car there is a small bundle of wires that go along the inside of the passenger side fender.What do those do?I know the windshield washer pump wires are among those but what are the others?

How to make half doors: STEP 1: acquire donor doors Step 2: mark your pattern on the doors Step 3: cut out pattern step 4: ??? step 5: go wheeling I decided I was going to make some half doors for my Ea81 toy just for the summer..So I stole some from my parts car.The driver side is a bit dented but who cares?It just got cut up anyway.The passenger side is straight but it has aluminum siding riveted to the bottom to cure some rust.So Far I have only cut out the driver side.I may have cut a bit to much because I think the flat panel sealing the gap on the door is going to be like right on top of the latch mechanism.I probably will need to notch out the plate for clearance.oh well.Ive only gut the driver side door out because I ran out of cutting disks for my grinder,and I haven't gotten any more yet.I do have a question for those of you that have done this mod: How did you set up the opening mechanism? I was thinking of using the stock latch rod, then moving the plastic up enough to get a nut started on the bottom of the rod to hold it in place.Then put something on the rod to press down on.Also how did you get the latch to stay in the unlocked position? I was thinking simply welding the lock rod to the door skin in the unlocked position would work best,unless anyone has a better idea? I might be able to get the doors finished up on sunday.Not sure though.saturday Im heading up to pull and save to round up some SFPI parts for the conversion..

ok scott, you want low gearing with subaru stuff.Fine. Whatever engine you like EJ DR transmission with 4.444 gears with EA82 Low range.Into an identical twin of the first transmission.Hooked up to a nissan transfercase(its still FHI). then 4.444 LSD up front and 4.444 welded rear diff. or for space sake: EJ DR box/4.444 gears/EA82 Low range hooked into a doubled nissan transfercase(2 transfercases).

EA82 RX body Forester suspension + axles 4.444 LSD ring and pinion and welded rear diff EJ DR transmission Ea82 Low range gearset Subaru Diesel Boxer then 31" tires,lights,CB radio,etc but those arn't exactly "subaru OEM parts"

I found that information off the interweb(including from this board) so that means it must be true.

oh yea,NEVER Go fast through a large puddle.go slow enough to maintain a "bowwake" off the front of the car.That should keep most of the water out.Turn off radiator fans if possible when going through water because the fans like to bend and they may take out the radiator when they hit water. or just get a snorkel and drive as fast as you want through a puddle.with your fans off.

did you get the tires balanced?if so, try putting those tires on the rear,so you don't feel the vibs.Or you knocked the balance off when you played last.either way see what happens if you put them on the rear. All four lugs line up with no problems right?I had a stud break of on one wheel because the hole was just slightly off center.That little bit caused bad vibs up front. if all else fails use regular tappered lugs on the two UNDRILLED holes to locate and hold the wheel.then use some flat lugnuts(or backwards lugnuts) on the studs where you drilled through the rim.Then just tighten them up tight as you feel comfortable(IE before the the threads strip)

snorkel and new ECU and it should be good to go.

your local auto parts store should have flex pipes in a variety of sizes.I know mine do.

when your drinking your reaction times get a bit slow.That pic is them deciding what to do.

X eleventy billion!

how did you blow the motor?Did you hydro-lock it?

Mud bogg'n tech 101 Relocate radiator to the rear-use exhaust tubing, fence posts,rubber hoses,etc whatever is available.You will have to get creative with how you route the hoses because their isn't a frame to tuck them into as with a normal 4x4.Or you could put the radiator on top of the engine.I don't like that idea because: 1) heat rises,so you have hot air from the engine flowing through the radiator 2) when your mudding you fling a lot of crap up into the air,sometimes rocks or dirt clods as big as the palm of your hand.It would be terrible if one such piece of debris came up and fell through the radiator.Unless you could somehow make a scoop that would cover it and still allow fans somewhere on it. as for the washers, have a 5 gallon bucket somewhere in the car with a marine bilge pump in it.Run some hose up to a piece of PVC right over the the top of the windshield.Cap one end.Drill about 5 or 6 (or as many holes as you want) in the PVC so it will spray down and wash the mud away. Both of those ideas I will do once I get the components needed for my SPFI swap and have it running right.It all requires a little bit of money,And money is one thing I don't have.So I have to budget my money and achieve goals with the limited amount that I have.Current item on budget list is SPFI swap,then 4" lift.Hopefully I will have both done by mothers day weekend.If not I can live with just the SPFI swap... then after the lift I got some 31X10.5X15's going on....

off the motor itself there is a black and green w/ red stripe,Off the geared part there is green wire, a green wire with a white stripe and a black.off the light is red and black.

I have a third eye assembly that I need to test to make sure it functions correctly.Which two wires off the 6 prong connector do I put power to?

looks good,although i think the justy needs a little bit of lift.Nice scenery though.

So I took some pics of stuff.No pics of the welded diff because a welded diff looks about the same,no matter how you do it,Lots of Molten metal goodness! The bumper is made out of 3/16 angle iron.Never measured how big it is just picked it up from a buddies scrap pile and threw it on.It actually was the right size and no cutting was needed to size it correctly.However I still need to bevel the corners for better clearance to the tires.That and weld some D rings onto it.It is connected to the car with 2" C channel about 3/16" thick.That goes into the "frame" 24" with 3 7/16" bolts on each side holding it on.Its plenty sturdy.I was also able to modify my front fans to tuck them in closer so the bumper is pretty close to the body. radiator support is a piece of 1 1/2 or 2" thick wall square tubing also donated from my buddies scrap pile.Its welded to the body and the factory front tow points are bent inward to further strengthen it,Then they were welded to the square tubing. Then finally when I put the EA82 front suspension on I lengthened my stock EA81 tie rods.The Ea81 tie rods are bigger in diameter than the EA82 ones.So I ground out the TOP of the steering knuckle so they would fit.Then to take care of the small beveled hole at the bottom I jammed a couple small lock washers in there to take up the slack.Benefits- tie rods are at less severe angle at normal ride hight and all other suspension positions,resulting in less bump steer.