SubPar

And O.D. stands for olive drab. Which may help in the search. There is no overdose green, but there is an overdsoe blue.

It's unlikely you'll find that part searching online. It's not a part that would normally need to be replaced. I'd check with the dealership to see if it's even available. For total overkill, go to sheet metal fab shop, and get them to cut a new one out of .080 or thicker aluminum.

Early Toyota Tercel 4x4s have a solid rear axle, but I'm not sure about the gear ratios. Try http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/ for more info. Just don't ever buy one of these things. Not as easy to work on as a Subaru, and parts availability is scarce, which is why mine went to the junkyard.

Everytime I'm out in Hood River, I see a 79 GL wagon driving around. Good luck with your purchase.

Anyone going? http://www.sthelens-mudrun.com/sthelens/StHelens.html

I like your rendering. I had a 4 door GL "truck" that I brought to WCSS 8. 1987GL with a SPFI conversion, 3" lift and Super Swampers. There are pictures of it on here somewhere. A friend of Michael Appel owns it now, though I got the notice to renew the tags a few months ago...

I think if you look around Portland, you will find an EA81 for less than $275. Unless B&R offers a warranty on the engine, you'd be better off checking the other yards on Columbia. If Delta says don't .040 over, then I'd take their advice.

Perrin parts on an EA82? Interesting. I'd like to know more about the intake.

I'd take a first gen wagon... and turn it into a sedan delivery! 2 doors, only glass left is windshield and front windows. Back hatch replaced with ambulance style doors. No bondo or fiberglass, I want real steel. Lowered, painted matte forest green, completely restored stock interior. RWD conversion, narrowed Ford 9" axle. Built, turbo'd Dodge Slant 6 with sidepipes, and some kinda 4 speed. I could go on and on...

Good thing you had a chainsaw and a baseball bat in the back.

Check out the for sale section for Monstaru's skid plate. If you've got enough steel plate, make a rear skid too to protect the diff.

To make a long story short, I paid for a brand new rear wheel bearing and rear differential trying to fix a noise/vibration in my 2002 Outback Sport. Almost $2000 later, and the noise is still there. Turns out that it's "tire noise", which is kinda funny since the dealership had to replace the tires right after they sold me the car. 3 out of the 4 tires had multiple nails in them. The tires they paid Les Schwab to put on there are Hankook directionals, shich is kinda funny since directionals can only be rotated front to back and back to front. The air filter housing was not latched properly when I bought it, causing the engine to idle kind of rough at times. Top latch was missing. After I installed the filter snugly, and latched the box properly, the rough idle disappeared. This same dealerhsip says they do a "150 point inspection" on all the vehicles they sell. I guess they missed a few things. In the end, I have a $60 credit for service at a dealership I will never have my car serviced at again. This was the first and the last time I will ever buy a Subaru from a dealership.

Motorsports = marketing, and consistently losing to Ford and Peugeot isn't good for business. That's my cynical take on it. On the other hand, SRT USA will most likely sweep the top spots in Rally America races for years to come, and there are a lot of energy drinks to be sold to the "Xtreme Teen" market.

My solution for my 02 Impreza was getting an older Outback cassette deck that has a clock in the display. It also has weatherband! But if you want a creative clock replacement solution... Yeah boyeeeeeeeee! Flav don't need no clock or GPS in his Subaru!

I was curious as to whether the MPG I've been getting in my 2002 Outback Sport was normal, as 20 city/25 highway seemed crappy. To my surprise... http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/17464.shtml I'm curious to know how how your actual MPG compares to the MPG listed on the site. The data on the site goes back to 1986. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymake/Subaru1986.shtml

"Subaru. Inexpensive and built to stay that way."

B&M now owns the Hurst name. George Hurst is spinning in his grave.

I haven't, but some of the Hurst/B&M t-handle shifters have a button on the side of the knob to wire in line-lock or nitrous.

My 02 OBS is at 99,600. With my luck, the HG will fail at 100,001 miles.

Once you get the pin out, and the new axle in, put some anti-sieze on the new pin.

It's possible that some material from inside the catalytic convertor on the up pipe was sucked into the turbo. It happens frequently with WRXs, hence the wide availability of catless up pipes.

The right tool for the job... http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Automotive/Vehicle_Specialty_Tools/Hose_Clamp_Pliers/KD3791.htm Disconnect the incoming side first, and then put something in the hole to prevent the fuel in the filter from spewing all over while you disconnect the other side. Use an oil fliter wrench to grip the old fuel filter, and wiggle it back and forth. Pulling harder will only lead to frustration.

Which dealership in Portland? Is the car still under warranty?

For the cost of building a high performance EA81, you could do a EJ22 or Ej22t swap, and come out with more HP, and the reliability of FI.

It should just be plastic tabs, at least it is on my Impreza. I took the screws out of the cup holder, removed the cup holder, and then removed the trim piece by gently prying with my fingers.