carfreak85

1999 "S" would NOT have the VLSD rear diff. Only 2000+ models got that. Also, the clocks have a bad soldier joint that often needs to be repaired. Many how-to articles on that.

[rant] Ugh, those "15-LED Chinese" lamps are going to be worse for night vision than your original headlamps. You REALLY should only upgrade to LED 4"x6" lamps from reputable companies who actually design their products for improved night vision. [/rant]

I've read that the USDM WRX clutch master cylinder is 11/16" where this one is a 5/8", so I hesitate to mix'n'match... I'll have to double check on the fluid, but I didn't notice any on the slave boot.

Background: 1993 JDM WRX transmission/clutch/slave & master cylinders. No previous problems with shifting or using the clutch. Yesterday I noticed that my clutch fork didn't have its return spring, so I bought one and fabricated a bracket for it to hook onto. When I went to test the free play after installing the spring, the clutch pedal went straight to the floor and stayed there, as if the master or slave cylinders were shot. I removed the spring and the clutch feels pretty normal again. Haven't driven the car since this happened yet, so I can't 100% confirm it works OK without the spring, but the pedal doesn't stay on the floor without the spring. The spring tension is so small that I have a hard time believing that it caused this, but here we are. The slave cylinder (30620AA021) was used on USDM cars and I can get a new one no problem. The master cylinder (37230FC010) however doesn't seem to match up to any Subaru sold in the U.S. and seems pretty hard to locate on a web search. What do you folks think? Is this a master or a slave problem? Does the system just need to be bled? Replace both? Has anyone converted a JDM clutch hydraulic system to a USDM one?

The WRX rear lines are a few inches longer than the STI ones. While the longer lines make it possible to swing the caliper up out of the way on one bolt as designed, it also leaves a lot more line to get snagged on something or to bounce around. I've got the WRX lines on my EA81T and the STI lines on my EA82. Either part number will work, it's just a matter of if you want ease of service, or a more offroad-durable setup.

Haven't tackled this yet, still hoping for photos... Might have to wait until after WCSS.

The aftermarket stainless steel brake lines for an STI are a nearly bolt-in solution for the rear lines on an EA81 or EA82.

Tex...... Your pictures are broken and I need to reference this.

Well, if the $10,000 fine from the EPA for tampering with an emissions control device doesn't do it for you, maybe the fact that without a cat you are basically poisoning yourself and everyone else around you will change your tune. But my guess is that you don't really care and the idea of "going cat-less" is a wet dream of yours. If that's the case, nothing I, the government, nor anything that anybody else will tell you would change your mind. A modern, high-flow cat will provide the same muffling effect as a baffled muffler design with none of the flow restrictions that typically make people delete their cats. If you want an exhaust that ACTUALLY makes more power than stock, here is your recipe: Scrap everything from the exhaust flange rearward. 1 1/4" primaries with a decent merge angle aft of the factory cat location going up to a 2" primary. A single entry/single exit 2" 300+ cell high-flow cat mounted below the driver. 2" Straight pipe out the rear. If this set up proves too loud or too raspy, you can add a resonator after the cat, or a straight through, perforated core muffler in the stock location.

I'm shocked nobody else has said this yet, but: Don't be a jerk and remove your catalytic converter. If all you want is a louder than stock exhaust to do it properly by getting a new, high-flow cat and leave the exhaust without a muffler. You will gain very little power by keeping any portion of the OEM exhaust anyway. Again, don't be "that guy".

Some 15 inch wheels will fit over WRX brakes, at least the '02-05 two-pot sliding calipers. I can't confirm about the 4-pot fixed calipers on the '06-07s.

OP, where do you work so that we can all avoid going to this place? Despite the laissez-faire attitude that some folks here have about using the wrong gear oil, I would be livid if I found out your shop did either of the following: A) put the wrong weight in my transmission/diffs put gear oil with LS additive into a transmission without LSDs, or one with sealed, viscous LSDs. The older a car gets the more worn the syncros will be. After a certain point (~199,000 miles in my Tercel 4WD) if you don't have the correct gear oil, the transmission will start to get very grumpy and difficult to shift without griding gears. I'm actually dealing with this problem with my Tercel right now, I have to double clutch and double declutch 3rd gear because I replaced the trans fluid with whatever Autozone had, in a pinch. I finally bit the bullet and bought the correct Motul GL-4 lube for that transmission, none of my local shops carry the correct weight or blend on the shelf anymore.

What changed in the redesign?

Does your brat have the optional arm rest between the seats?

Any updates on this BRAT?

I finished swapping to the SVX master cylinder on my RX last weekend and WOW, what a difference! This car is stupid fast with the JDM WRX engine and when I got the car the brakes were terrifying. I would not let other people drive the car because you had to be looking/thinking so far down the road to have enough stopping distance. If you're converting an EA82 to an EJ or even XT6 brake system, you NEED to upgrade the master cylinder.

Damnsubaru, you need to bleed your brakes.

Adapters are an awful way to upgrade your wheels and will contribute to accelerated wear on your wheel bearings.

Extra-S and HPGO are two different lubes. The general consensus on NASIOC seems to be that HPGO is not quite as good as Extra-S was (Can still find Extra-S in Canada, apparently). My WRX currently has Extra-S in it, but I'm closing in on the 30k interval to change it. My 5 gallon bucket might have enough left for another fluid change, but I'm saving that for my '93 WRX transmission and will be using Motul 300 75w-90 in the '02 WRX.

Get the nicest one you can afford. Seriously, if you plan to use this cover for months or years at a time you will spend more replacing cheap, torn car covers vs, simply buying a quality one from the start.

Oh no! I will keep my eyes peeled East of Seattle. Hopefully it was just taken for a joy ride and was parked somewhere nearby. I would start canvasing the immediate 2-mile radius from where the car was taken. My wife's friend had their Outback stolen from the Carter Subaru service lot a few years back. It took about a week, but the SPD found it abandoned and undamaged just a few blocks away.

2" spacer PLUS -19 mm offset wheels? Your OE wheels were probably close to +50 mm of offset. You're moving centerline of your wheel/tire almost 5 inches from where it originally was at the factory. Yeah, your bearings don't stand a chance...

OOOOoooooo, good call 86BRATMAN! I had no idea the EA82s used a u-joint! Hopefully I can still find one in the dealer network, this is not a part I'd want to source used (My Tercel 4WD has this type of coupler and it nearly locked up on me once, before I lubed it).

What is the compatible part number? I'd be interested in a polyurethane rag joint for my EA81s.

Scott, what does your day look like on Saturday the 20th?