carfreak85

REALLY sticky....

Zap, NO NO NO NO NO!! This is the sort of garbage I was talking about a few posts back. Don't buy that crap, don't suggest it to other people. Understand, those are garbage bulbs that DO NOT help with night vision.

Original post was from 2013, OP was last active July 21st, 2013... I'm gonna say this never happened.

You need auxiliary driving lamps, not LEDs in your fog lamps. Different beam patterns.

That very last statement "...by a wounded..." is the only reason we have an AT in our fleet of eight vehicles (Well, the EA81T hardtop is still AT, but not for long). Two dislocated shoulders and one ruptured ACL in the last 5 years has proven this to be a necessary evil. Also, this 10,000 hp top fuel dragster uses a 5-disc clutch and direct drive. ATs eat power and when your margin of victory is sometimes in the ten-thousandths of a second, every horse counts: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3161?Nerds-Eye-View--Inside-10000-horsepower-Part-2.aspx

What is the post Gambler fate of this vehicle?

ATs are for the birds. MT all day.

The older ones could be killed by overheating the engine. The newer ones, especially the turbocharged ones, don't tolerate crap oil or long oil change intervals. Rust is the common denominator. These are inexpensive cars built to a price. The chassis are not designed to go 400k miles. In fact, the only vehicles on the road that are built that way are long-haul trucks. Ours have a 1 million mile design life.

PA Grown, I don't have any issues with him, but John Blume has a long a sordid history with this forum. He was once a very active member, building cars for people, lift kits, selling parts, etc. He was a good guy, and I considered spending a great deal of money on his services at one point. Then he started swindling board members, disappeared from the USMB, and stopped answering his phone/emails/etc. Do a search for "mudrat79". Heck, it sounds like you're pretty close to him, why don't you ask him what happened and why he isn't more active in the old school Subaru world, if he still is so passionate about these cars.

Weren't those Sterlings just dolled up Hondas? Or am I thinking of another badge-engineered car?

Think they come in 4x140mm? :lol:

So talk to me about that rotary adapter. Where did you find it, how long have you had it? What other bits are required to get that swap done.

Go on www.tirerack.com and read their tests and customer reviews. Then shop around for the best price on the tire you decide on.

If your vehicle was originally equipped with halogen bulbs your options are: HIR bulbs improved, independent wiring harness for the headlamps HID or LED retrofit DO NOT buy inexpensive HID or LED bulbs that have been re-based to fit a halogen lamp. The lamp housings are not designed to reflect these bulbs properly and they will actually end up hurting your night vision, despite looking like an upgrade over the stock lamps (They're not an upgrade, PM me for details).

Numbchux, you appear to be correct. HOWEVER. EA81T/EA82T/EJ22T/EJ20G//EJ205 all came without the screen. You don't need the screen, nor should it have ever really been spec'ed by FHI.

HIDs are great! Unless installed in a halogen housing, improperly aimed, etc. I missed the DL part, in that case, just find some LED or HID 4x6 conversion lamps. They are still pretty expensive though.

You are going down a path of glare, purposely misaligned headlamps, angry, blind drivers and other miscellaneous woe and sorrow. Do a search for Turbone and his HID headlamp upgrade. The way he upgraded his lamps is really the only way to do it properly. You can't just stick HID bulbs in a halogen housing.

Did John Blume, aka Mudrat79, ever make good with the USMB and repay those folks he swindled?

I like the 185/75/13 Kumho Solus KR21 tires I bought a few years back for my EA81T wagon.

Draw a line on the shaft where you want the extra length welded in. Find the nearest exhaust shop, take the part there. Tell them to cut the shaft on your line and weld it back together with an extra 4 inches welded in the middle.

100% agree with GD's opinion on coilovers. Additionally, buy a brand that can be rebuilt, coilovers tend to wear out a LOT faster than OEM struts (20-40k miles vs. 40-80k miles for OEM).

REMOVE THE BANJO BOLT SCREEN! There is a TIB for this.

Love your cars! Especially that AWIC setup you've got on the Vortex, very stealthy!

I'd say any engine over 10 years old needs a high ZDDP oil at this point. If it's a turbo Subaru engine of any generation, you should be running a HTHS oil as well, such as Motul X-Clean, German Castrol, Amsol or Shell Rotella T6. Basically any oil that meets BMW/Porsche/MB's high performance oil specs would do well in a turbo Subaru.

The copper washers are even reusable indefinitely, if you anneal them between uses, that is.