Gloyale

I have full kits painted and waiting to bolt onto your car. I would love to send you more info on them. Send me a PM Unfortunately, I do not feel inclined to give away my hard work and research in measuring and designing a kit. I believe most other builders of kits here would feel the same. If you wanna build a kit, do it. But if you have the skills and equipment to build a kit, you probably don't need someone to tell you what to make. If you want someone to hold your hand and tell you what to build and how to build it.............you should just buy a dang kit cause it will be alot easier in the end.

Busted front axle+ open diff= no drive to front wheels and no engagement of parking brake(it locks the front diff pinion shaft, but if the spiders can turn.......) So all your drive is coming from the rear end.........sporadiocally as the TCU see the "slip" at the front axle. Then at speeds over 35 the TCU trys to reduce transfer to the rear......that is probaly the high reviing and 100mph speedo reading. Figure out which axle by simply looking at them while someone puts the car in gear......one of them'll spin while the car sits still.

The poor old EA82 takes so much crap:lol: IDK, set one up with good timing belts and tensioners and I am sure an EA82 could take the abuse for 124 hours, let alone 24. The T-belts are it's only weakness.......otherwise it revs quicker and higher, with more HP than the EA81.

replace all the hard and crusty rubber vac lines, that ussually helps alot. Some of them have tiny pellets with resrictor holes in them. take off hoses one by one. Cut up the old hose and look inside for those pellets, and place them into the new hose. if not you will have WAAAY too much vacuum in some places.

Well, as long as you got the slack out of the lower part of the belt before releasing the pin. If you leave slack down there, then you will end up with the Drivers side cam retarded when the tensioner pulls up the slack. But like you said, one rotation around to double check all the marks are straight up when done will tell you if everything is right. IMO, the difference in tooth count #'s, tensioner types, and cover types, is that you have a Phase II 2.2, essentially identical to the Phase II 2.5, but with smaller displacement.

96-99 outbacks rear struts can clear a 235/75/15. Strictly speaking of the spring perch to tire clearance. *need lift for body to clear tires that large.

The factory hithc and I believe the U-haul versions both bolt on VERY easily. It has a notch that goes up over the exhaust. 2 bolts up through holes in the bottom of the bumper into captive nuts (you can't see them, but they're up in the hole, long 10mm x 1.5 bolts) And 2 more bolts/nuts/plates that clamp onto the recovery loops. * note that a small notch must be cut (hacksaw) in the platic bumper skirt to clear the receiver. As for wiring.......you could try to buy the proper adapter that just plugs in. Hard to get....spendy... Or it is really simple to wire up a generic adapter. IMO, it is best to run the wiring so the adapter box is inside the rear compartment, below left tailight. That way the connector doesn't get corroded, and you don't have any openings in the lower part of the car for water/mud/cold air to get inside. Run the trailer lighting loom from there, into the jack storage compartment, and just keep it bundled up in there. Pull it out when you need it and just flop it out of the tailgate while you are towing. Never had problems with wire pinchings.

Worst case would be the vac diaphram failing and not operating hte lever. But if you one needed to they could reach under there and hand operate the lever. They typically don't fail unless very rusty. None. In fact I think the 1 piece Input shaft of the S/R could be argued is stronger as there is no gearset or snynchros to transfer power though. The D/R uppershaft is 2 pieces, with a shift collar that links them end to end for Hi range. you are probably right. You likely won't have any need for low range unless you go with much larger tires. Well, not tune-up stuff......but the system is very simple to maintain. Singel or Dual are really identical trans, other than the Lo gearset. They are 90% the same a the first EJ5spds. Same bearings and shaft sizes. Also, when "spirited driving", it is not always easy or safe to: 1. take you're hand off the gearshift, 2. look for the Hi/Lo/4wd lever, 3. and try to shift into 4Hi(and not get nuetral or Lo) 4. then get hand back to the shifter to downshift before the cor.......BAM!!!......ner:eek: The Pushbutton is much nicer if you are only ever gonna need Hi range.

There should be no gasket, sealer only. As far as removal.......hmmm.......perhaps drill them out carefully, then tap to 1/4" standard thread.

A bit wider, and a hair taller. Should fit though. Might rub a tad against the front mudflaps when turning

Yeah, but now after haveing done several, they are easier. Dial gauge goes through the drain plug hole. The more I do them, the less I worry. Worst you'll get is whining........unless you really set it WAAAY off.

Watch the end of the same video. Looks like the guy oversteers the back end then just stomps the brakes......the ABS let's him roll right off the road.......then roll again

Modify EA82 sensor wheel and pickup iinto the Escort disty shaft? Or cut all but 4 opposing ears of of the crank timing belt gear, and mount the pickup from the EA82 disty where the crank sensor mounts. (it's possible that wouldn't be nessecary, in that hte stock sensor may be a capable trigger already) Or run it off the Cam Sensor, either way, but...... Adjusting timing.....???????

Adjustment changed the noise some, but it is still present and consistant. I will soon be pulling the trans, taking of the tailshaft and the front diff sections, and replacing the bearings on the pinion shaft. Really, I swear there will be some pics soon.

I am pretty positive it is drvietrain and not engine. The noise is linked 100% to vehichle speed. Engine speed has no effect on it. I adjusted the diff slightly. (moved the ring gear about .5 mm toward the pinion) Noise is quieted, but not gone.....I might try another adjustment. I still am not ruling out the pinion support bearing though........

So we recently found my mom a 2003 LL Bean H6 to replace the totaled 96 outback. Got a great deal on it. Though there is a reason. There is a whining, related only to vehichle speed, and throttle position/load. My first thought was a front diff that is misadjusted (i've seen the bearing cups messed with by unfamiliar mechanics trying to change axles).....So I will be attempting a minor adjustment. Should that fail to change anything.....My next thought is the large roller bearing that supports the pinion shaft for the front diff. So my question is does anyone know of a failurre of this bearing in H6 automatics? Or any 4EAT? And I guess secondly.....while i've removed many 4EATs, never one from an H6.....anything I'm gonna encounter? Thanks all for input and comments. BTW....pics of the LL Bean and the WRECKED 96 OBW coming soon to a thread near you.

While the screw should not be messed with ussually, there really isn't too much harm. The screw just sets the throttle opening to match each intake to it's engine. I've had to readjust them after swapping longblocks, but keeping the original intake. It isn't too hard. Granted this isn't flow tested or feeler gauges.....but it works fine. You may need to replace plugs and wires first to make it idle steadily. Once that's done: Adjust the TPS so the idle switch is closed. Warm up engine and allow it to idle down fully. Adjust the screw until engine idles at 700-800 RPM Now readjust TPS so that idle switch opens just as throttle opens slightly (.32mm, IIRC)

Had you ever stuck a 12mm socket in the access holes in the covers and loosend then retightened the tensioner? The spring will pull up any slack in the belt. You have to put a bit of clockwise rotation pressure on the crank while doing this. But it really helps to do it every 10k or so on EA82 belts. And there are those out there running interference EJ engines.......they should DEFINATELY run with well sealed covers.

???????? I believe it is to the left of the steering column, tucked up high in the dash. Mounted horizontally. The TCU will be blocking it, mounted vertically, if it's an automatic. Gary, you may be thinking impreza or.....?

If you do the job right, and REPLACE the one piece tensioner(I've never found the pulley sold seperate for this type)........... they come pre-compressed with a pin in them already.

Front maybe. Rears definately not. Each generation of leagcy from 2000-04, then 05-09, and now the 2010's are different rear subassemblies. I am currently working on a prototype lift for 2000-04 OUtbacks and Bajas. Follow my Lift kit threads in the Vendors section(00-04 coming soon)

Or The Original SUS, an 84 4WD GL Sedan. Only year EA81 4wd Sedan made.

89 GL Touring Wagon Raised roof for extra head room. Rear shoulder belt, that comes from lower rear window ledge, over seat......perfect for kids under 4'9". (unlike later high mounted Loyale belts) Late SPFI (without the older oddball connectors, 100% compatible with Loyale ECU and FI parts) Dual/Range 5spd 4 speaker stereo, Standard DIN radio mounting bracket, easier Aftermarket upgrades(still have to seperate grounds) No passive restrain belts(automatic head clockers) The only options that I would like to see, that was not offered in 89 is the Adjustable height struts from 85/86 GL's and outside temp, which was only in the GL-10 package. And of course DL headlights, though unsightly, are far superior for brightness and ease of service.

Make sure the flapper in the Air Flow meter is moving smoothly. Change spark plugs (wires too if you got $) Replace cap and rotor. Check the intake boot closely for any leaks. Replace any hardened vacuum lines.