Gloyale

this is from a newer car. 93 will look similar but the cable comes in from the front, not the back. The spring on the hillholder will hold it open. no need to use a ziptie. If you shim a washer under the back bolt of it so it's tipped forward, it will not activate as the ball will be rolled forward. there is no reason to delete the system. Other than lack of understanding.

4.11 not 4.44 We didn't get any 4.44 manuals in the us.

for what it's worth, the stop lamp is indicating that one of your bulbs is defective. It checks for balance of resitance between the 2 brake light bulbs. the fact it's coming on for just a moment indicates probably a rusted bulb socket with alot of resistance.

its in the under hood fuse box at the far end of the bank of relays

regular legacy it could be a 2.2 still just Phase II

well that's the PCV feed and drain. without that, the PCV hoses at the heads that connect to the intake are under above throttle vac. sucking oily vapor into the intake tube. you need to connect the center fitting to the PCV so that vapors are pulled in by full manifold vac, but the liquid oil part can drop down the tube into the pan, and the gasses pulled into the PCV.

yes, also the 2 pickup tube bolts are higher grade.

you are counting all "4" strokes as rotations. they are not. 1 rotation is 2 of the 4 strokes, so 2 rotations is 4 strokes. But then even, the Cam rotates !/2 the speed of the crank. So 48 teeth is the full rotation of 4 strokes. so the math is 360/48 = 7.5 degrees per tooth. 6 tooth advanced is 45 degrees of camshaft advancement. 22.5 of crank Which if IIRC, is about the distance between the arrows and the hash marks. my guess is you are basing yer stats off of the arrows. Because like GD said, it will not run well 6 teeth off. The Cam and Crank sensors would be so far out of sync it would throw codes. And "too aggressive with the sander"? you'd have to take of massive amounts of material and then intake wouldn't bolt on. And why the hell are you using a sander on the heads? Hope all goes well for ya cause something is off.

Had a spare tire holder that folded down built from an EA82 rear trailing arm, using the wheel bearing as the pivot.. Stub axle slipped into that cup. Unfortunately, teh latch mechanism that held it upright failed, and it started bouncing uncontrollably on a dunes trip. Broke the stub in half.....it's still stuck in there....I never remade the thing.

thanks. I put alot of little bits of time on it.

this is a video link. Can't figure out why it won't link correct but here it is. www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF4UgY4Gvy0

99 Outback rears would be a better option. they are taller to the perch. But 05 forrester struts should work, with your same springs. Brake line mounting will be different.....just use zipties. Absolute best combo is 99 outback rear struts, with 04+ Forester tophats (they are taller) to eliminate saggy butt.

I always use adremel to notch out the brake line tab on the struts. If you cut out the edge that the closed side of the clip covers, you can slide the clip over and it functions just the same.

I think these can interchange also......the difference is the older one the rear diff mounts to a plate, plate mounts through bushings to craddle. Newer ones the diff mount holes and bushings are built into the craddle. So long as you get the longer studs......you could use the newer craddle on older cars..... And if you get the diff mount plate too.....the older one can work on newer cars. But a Forester craddle cannot be used on a Legacy. wrong height

I don't want a fuel cell in the car. I take my kids and family wheelin. Already crowded for cargo space. I've got an EJ22......Weight isn't an issue. actually helps to have a bit of weight back there for balance. And the belly of my car is HIGH and has full length slider rails along the factory unibody rails. Engine and rear diff and rearmost u-joint are armored. No problems getting the front and middle of the car over things. It just when you get over an obstacle and then immediately have an uphill, the rump drops and hangs on that obstacle. As for 1-3/4" rocks under the skid.....Yeah I'm not worried. I am worried about 2-3/4' Foot tall rocks. This was the experience that made me contemplate this project. I kept being able to go forward until a large rock hung up my rear bumper. Then when reversing it would smash into my gas tank. It got quite well bashed. you can see the rock I kept backing up against in the second pic. That pointy guy bashed my tank good and eventually got my hung up. Had to highlift of it. IMG_0245 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0248 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I do take plenty of big rocks along the sides too! IMG_0244 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0246 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And then this stuff too.....slider would've been nice here.

Forrester craddle will not work correctly. You will lose ground clearance and mess with suspension alignment if you use it. it's 1-1/4" "taller" Like the outback, but in Outback they used a spacer like the front and the same craddle. Forester they just made the craddle taller to eliminate the spacers. Need a Legacy or Impreza. Even an Outback one just without the spacer blocks.

just remember you get what you pay for. Some claim the Fel-pro are just re-sold factory gaskets.......sometimes they might be.......but I know I've seen definately not factory HGs in Felpro packaging too......plus felpro other seals and gaskets like intake and Cam seals will be China junk. I would not risk it. See if any local stores can get you "Stone" branded headsets.....they are Japanese and include good quality rubber seals.

Us cars got those notched pans too. 05+ when they changed the exhaust to wrap around the oil filter??? Always hated that. still do.

When the vehichle is flat....it is either 2wd or 4wd. With 2 wheels or 4 wheels all providing drive. It's not that only one wheel per axle drives. Both wheels drive as long as there is weight and traction at both tires. A front wheel drive honda is still 2wd. both front wheels drive whenever both tires are on the road. Reverse has no effect on this action.

One wheel spinning, you could keep moving. as the 2 wheels of the other set woudl still drive (front or back, whichever was not spinning. this is not limited slip, just a lock 4wd....no center differential if you had one wheel at each axle spinning, you'd be stuck, the other 2 would get no drive.

Any additional high load accesories like heated seats or high power lights need to be run off of Fused relays, NOT through the ignition switch. That is likely the issue.

New gen car but I made this for my 98 Forester IMG_2670 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2669 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr It's an 03 LL Bean H6 steering wheel from a junkyard car that had deployed airbag. I made the custom wood center from scrap pine from Home depot that had unusual burls. I made the Dichroic Glass Subaru logo piece also. It's attached to the OE airbag craddle and bolts in and functions as a horn button just like the airbag module.

if it was adjusted right you would never notice it. You are judging it in non working form. Something is wrong if it's "causing alot of problems" very useful actually when working properly. It should require intent to make it engage. You'd have to set the brakes hard with the clutch down on hills.

yeah hoses A and B are the wastegate actuator hoses. loose connector looks like knock sensor wastegate linkage is indeed disconnected.

should be in the doors. And there should be wires and cutouts for the rear doors speakers too.