Gloyale

Why would you think taking out hte solenoid would make the light go out? If there isn't a load device on the end of the circuit, the computer knows something is wrong. Either wire in a resistor, or find a good solenoid to plug in there, at least electrically. It doesn't need to be actually hooked intot he vac lines, just the electrical unit needs to be present on the end of the circuit. At any rate it shouldn't really effect driveability. No worries about *limp mode* with this particular code.

Proably bad or at least shifted(towards the outside) bushings in the pivots of the control arm and trailing arm. Common in salty areas and espescially can be the result of a *sno-versteer* incident with a curb.

You kinda have to stomp the brake while holding the clutch to *set* it. Remeber it only locks one or two wheels(depending on model) so, you need 2-4 times the force at those wheels you would need with all four to *hold* the car.

The ground goes to the bracket on the coolant pipe that runs from radiator to the waterpump. there is a bolt hole on the tubes mounting bracket. The F shaped device that goes into the coolant passage is a thermovalve. It switched on the EGR vacuum, and also some evap function, once warmed up. It can just have all the hoses pulled off it and left uncapped. Although personally, I would leave the EGR operational as it helps lower combustion temperatures. I hope you didn't throw away the vacuum line to the Distributor Advance. There is a small pellet with a hole in it that resticts the amount of vacuum that the advance recieves. You should fish it out of the old vac hose and install it in you're new hose

The ethylene in the coolant will seep through the fuel line within a few years time. Additionally it is not meant to be exposed to constant 200+ degree heat. I used it, then saw detrimental long term effects. You really should use Coolant hose Carquest carries actual Coolant/heater hose in sizes from 1/4 on up. If you are really hard up, use Trans cooler line. It is made for the heat at least

1000 square foot, cement floor, 18 ft ceilings with loft for storage:grin: Costs me a pretty penny in rent and insurance each month. But you gotta spend money to make money. I don't have a lift though, still working with jack stands and a creeper:rolleyes:

There is a starter relay in your impreza, and that would be a place to begin testing. You're current relay may have bad contacts or a poor connection. It is the older Loyale/GL/DL cars that do not use a relay, but rather direct through the switch power for the solenoid. Although, I would first suggest cleaning out the contacts on the starter solenoid. Remove the starter, remove the triangular plate on the back of the solenoid, and remove the plunger and contacts. Clean the vrass contacts and the plunger surface. I bend the contact tabs *in* slightly, to get better contact. It all goes back toghether easily. This has solved any starting issue in an EJ car I have seen. I've on;y ever had to add relays, pushbuttons, to older Loyale/GL cars.

So, I should update. And fill everyone in on the *full* story of this engine. So, this is a freshly rebuilt engine. I had it toghether, with a turbo on it, for all of about 50 miles. Drove it down to a local 4x4 spot, waded through a river channel I have crossed before, and the nose sunk like a rock.(someone with 35" boggers chewed out a big hole) I shut her down, no hydrolock. But the car was submereged for about 3 hours til we could exctract it. The water forced it's way past all the seals into the engine, and transmission (4eat) So I tore down the engine, inspected the rods for bends, and put her all back toghether, this time deciding to ditch the heat problem prone turbo, and run NA, so I put in some low mileage SPFI pistons, with the fresh rings. I cleaned as much of the milkshake oil out of it as possible, including removing hte oil pump, and filling the pump housing with WD-40. Then, after fully assembling motor, I pulled the Pressure relief valves out of both Cam Cases, and primed the oil pump with a 12mm socket on the pulley and an air ratchet. Pumped until all the oil squirting from the heads was clean. SO.............. I got to thinking......popping through intake.....hmmmmmm.....tight valves? Could be the Hydro Adjusters are stuck solid and not letting the valves close? Kinda like an opposite TOD issue. Come to think of it, there was not a trace of valve clatter. So I ran a about a quart of some special Diesel engine detergent/friction release stuff I got from the Diesel mech next door. Seemed to help, alot, the motor now revs smoothly, not so much popping. I was able to get her up to about 50 mph, and into 3rd gear, but still lacking power and popping a bit. I am hoping another treatment with that stuff will help. Any further lack of power COULD be from the differences in the NA and Turbo ECUs. On a side note, after flushing 5 times, to the tune of almost 100 bucks of Dex/Merc, the trans fluid finally looks more like ATF than Strawberry Quick!

My first thought when I read this thread was Idle Switch. For the misfires, check the routing of the plug wires. if they are close to the injector harness, move them, clip them out of the way, and or place that corrugated plastic wiring wrap around the sections that run near the injectors. *noise* from the plug wires can cause misfire of injectors. I've noticed it especially on the 99 and 2000 Outbacks.

double, see below

It is fairly normal for a Subaru to *high idle* for a few minutes. the fact that it went up to 2200 then came back down is a good sign. Is it REALLY a problem? causing any drivability issues? Does the idle ever drop down to under 1000? when warmed up?

You had to also be hitting the brakes. If you don't hit the brakes, the hill holder doesn't do anything. Hillholder cannot generate any braking force, it is only able to serve as a one way valve, holding braking pressure until released.

I just do mine tight with the impact, not like insane, sit there and hammer on it tight,,,,,,,, just enough until the impact seats it good. Then stake it down.

Yeah, but these cams are very close, a bit milder, than the factory Non-turbo XT cams are. That is basically what I have created, SPFI block, with MPFI heads and a Spider intake. I think if it's not the injectors (i'll find out by swapping back to the non-spider manifold with the old injectors in it) then it must be an ECU issue. Who's got a N/A 87 1/2+ XT ECU. It's either that, or rewire an use an old Flapper MAF and ECU set-up, and ground out the *non-turbo* pin. A MAJOR PITA

You said earlier, it will do it in P and N range sitting still. can't be the front diff. it doesn't spin in when the car isn't moving. Is it perhaps the pump in the trans? it is just behind the diff. It could also be the Torque converter, which rides directly over it. Might be worth pulling the access cap on the engine bell and checking to make sure all 4 bolts holding the TC to the flexplate are tight, not backing out.

I would think you need to use phase I 2.2 belt. First gen legacy belt. Disregar any marks on the belt and just go off the cam marks all straight up. OUt of curiousity though, is the mark for the crank directly opposite the crank keyway? just curious if for some reason the crank sprocket might be clocked diferently? also, have you measure the width of the shortblock? roughly? Are both blocks the same width? That is the only things I could think of.

new train of thought. The *new* injectors I used are actually 80's nissan Maxima injectors. They are identical to the original GL turbo injectors, and were rated at the same flow. Same color and appearance. Still, somehow the whole problem seems to be not enough fuel. It is running really lean, popping through intake, and stumbling all overitself with no power. But, oddly, resists stalling out, seems like it *wants* to run better, just won't. Timing belts are correct, ignition timing correct, tried a new fuel pump today. Compression is good in all cylinders 160-165. I am officially stumped. Gonna try the old intake and injectors tommorow.

Crap. 87 FSM shows pin 28, Black/yellow wire to be the CA/49 state discrimination. Apparently they got less specific with the wordage in 88 and 89, but it is the same ECU, pins, wires, etc......so no go. no turbo/non-turbo discrimination on hotwire MAF systems. Damn. I may have to actually get a non-turbo ECU from an 87+ XT:mad:

89 XT FSM also shows pin 28 to be a Black/yellow wire labeled*specification code*

The ECU isn't doing anything with all the duty solenoids, pressure sensors and such all gone. It was on;y there to control fuel ratio, and that is all done by you're Electro-free weber now. There just isn't a point trying to fix it. 75% of the system is gone, it can't be *fixed* in that state.

Could it be pin 28, Black/yellow wire labeled as "identification of specifications" in the FSM chart? In 89, there were no non-turbo MPFI GL's and there weren't any turbo XT's, so for 89 FSMs they don't specifically state *turbo/non-turbo* discrimination. However a browse back to the 86 FSM reveals a pin on there ECU labeled *turbo/non-turbo*, and it is also a Black/yellow wire.......interesting......the pins and whole ECU are different, but perhaps this is a clue to wire color on the 89 ECU.

You don't live in a mountainous area.

Turn the key on and press the small little black button. It is ussually mounted to the lower left corner of the dash. It is hard to spot, looks like a small black plastic cap, and can be mistaken for part of the trim mounting. but it has a tiny button in it. Press that and all the lights should go off. The box you here ticking is the keyless entry unit

I use it and love it. If it screws with letting you *roll* backwards, just let the clutch pedal off a hair. If that doesn't do it it is out of adjustment. Placing a Shim under the rear bolt of it will increase the angle that the car must be tilted back before it will operate. Makes it not so likely to interfere in a parking situation. Never had a problem with any of mine.

So this is all in an 89 GL turbo wagon. No longer turbo. Tried 2 different known good turbo ECUs Spot on about the Turbo cams being 14-56-56-14. That indeed is the cam I am running. SPFI are 10-54-49-15. N/A XT mpfi (what the spider intake would have been on) is 16-60-60-16 So the turbo cams fall right in the middle of both those NA cams. So I don't think it is the CAMs My new idea, is I am goin to try to jumpering the boost switch to trick the ECU to think it is under boost and needs more fuel. <<<<<<this was dumb......87+ systems don't use the boost switch for ECU, just for the stupid dash light.