Gloyale

Manual or Automatic?

WHOA!!!! slow down. If you hear hoofbeats...... think Horses, not Zebras So clicking/popping in turns.......yeah that is the CVs. They are SUPER easy to replace on these cars. I doubt that you have a problem with your center diff. I would never tear one out just on a hunch or speculation. You should have some real evidence that it is bad before taking it out, as it is a BIG project if you are unfamiliar with it.

The guy could have been wrong. Or you guys could get a better supplier out there. All the *loaded* calipers I've seen for purchase DO NOT have the bracket, it is the Caliper only. (including from my local Car Quest) Just a FYI Anyhow, Glad to hear that it is fixed. Junkyard is a perfect solution in some cases.

double post, see below

Do you have pictures of that? I;ve never SEEN a cracked cylinder in a Subaru. Lot's of heads, and spun cylinder sleeves, but never a crack. PICS!!!!

Sorry for the confusion. I trust both of you guys know what you are doing. Didn't mean to stir the pot, just missed a detail and didn't want to see you have problems with another project. Nice work. Now, get the coupe rockin.

HOw did you come to that consensus? The non-turbo heads rarely crack in any sort of critical way. The ALWAYS have a small crack between the vavle seats, but those are OK. The crack that is a killer is the one that occurs in the exhaust port. And I have never seen a non-turbo head with one of those cracks. I would recommend replacing the headgaskets, and buttoning it all back up. You'll be good to go for tens of thousands of more miles. You COULD use the RX heads on you're carbed block, you would just need to adapt a mount for the carb onto the RX intake. BIG project, not worth it.

When you remove the Camshaft cases, the rockers will all want to fall on the ground. Be ready to catch them, try to keep them in order. To hold them on during reassembly, use a big glob of grease to *glue* them to the lash adjusters they pivot on.

Forrester

Totally true. Sorry. I took Connies first statement to mean that you guys had installed both front and rear crossmember blocks. If all you did was the rear, then you are correct. I haven't had any problems using just outback struts and none of the blocks.

EA81, Build date 4/84, #519607 Hydro lifter engine(verified by stickers nand the fact it's in an automatic trans car) Automatic, 4wd, *high luxury* model sedan. Every reason to believe this is the original engine.

The *model* is actually "L-series", GL and DL are trim versions, not models. The *1800* series moniker is a designation given by the Chiltons/Haynes people and parts suppliers. It is a terrible designation because there were 2 totally different chassis and engines that were *1800* in the US. there were, 2 1800 engines used. the EA81 is found in 81-84 wagons, 81-87? brat, and in 83-89 Hatchbacks(4wd) Pushrod motor, not a big headgaskets eater. The EA81 body dates back to the styling of the early 80's the EA82 is found in 85-94 sedans, coupes, wagons, and XT. Boxier bodies, bigger, looks like a Loyale. This is likely what you have. Again DL and GL were trim versions, not different models You can replace the headgaskets in the car, but it is way easier out of the car.

No, it is supposed to slide right out.

EA81 or EA82? What year, Model?

Yeah, but his symtoms were more than just no power to coil. No CEL, no ECU light, no Fuel Pump priming. But anyway, I am going to say that likely the culprit plug was indeed the F98 junction cougar mentioned. It is a clear, long plug, and has ALL the power wires for ECU, coil, and fuel pump running through it. It is in the row of 4 big connectors up under the dash, closest to middle of car.

Outbacks have split rear foding seats stock. EA81 seats should fit in any other EA81. EA82 seats may need modified to fit in EA81. But hey, I modified 92 Legacy turbo sedan rear seat into my little EA81 sedan. Hooray for passthrough trunk access!!!

Look on the passenger side, about half way down. Should be an open circuit across the 2 poles when cold, and closed when hot.

Are you iusing the correct fluid. Dex/Merc ATF? if you put regular *power steering* fluid in it, the clear stuff, it will make them leak and whine terribly

Yeah they do. If you drop the crossmember, but don't use the outback control arm pivots, you are twisting the rear mount of the arm. You might get away with it because of the sgive in the rubber, but definately you are moving the front of the arm down, so the rear should drop too. Look closely, the outback mounts are different than the stock Legacy ones. They drop that pivot by 1-1/4 inches to match the crossmember. If you only used the crossmember blocks, then some of the other stuff is out of whack. Like the craddle that runs between the front and rear trans crossmembers. That is a deeper craddle on the Outback. So your trans is pointed upward a bit in the rear. Probably not a problem, but..... My theory is use all the different pieces or none of them. Definately Connie take a look at your control arms, the front and rear pivots should be level with eachother. With what you've done, your control arms point downward in the front (looking from the side), you may have a problem with that.

was it a 7 pin connector? all with black wires? That would be the main grounding junction for all the shielded wires and ECU grounds. F88 in the FSM, and that would make perfect sense.

WRX trans already have a lower first and second gear, and I think are 4.11 final drive. So actually you might not end up THAT far ahead if at all. Edit: Okay, just checked the charts. His WRX is likely excact same gearing and final drive as a EA D/R It is the six speed that has lower gears.

Either way, the thing that would be damaged is the Viscous center diff. It's not like an automatic where the Front wheels are *locked* in drive and the rear get's variable output. On Manuals the center differential splits power and either front or rear axles can *slip*. The viscous unit is the only thing that prevents it from being just an open diff.

With WRX horsepower, and fairly small sized tires he's running, I don't think he needs it. Plus it would just *feel* like a major downgrade.

Did you swap control arm pivots up front? (if not your control arms will be tilted wonky) What about the trailing arm brackets in the rear? Trans crossmembers? Rear diff nose mount (upside down mustache bar) Why I ask is because alot more than just the crossmember blocks are "spaced" down to be on the Outback. I'm guessing whatever you did was fine I am just wondering excactly which pieces you used.

The pushbutton trans is probably the original. If it was from a Loyale it would be a 3.9 ratio., GL-10s all got the single range if they were manual. Anyhow, bushings i'd order from a dealer, or 1stsubaru, etc... It should not have a 3wire o2 sensor unless it is a california model. An d that shouldn't have anything to do with the starting. My bet is on the Coolant temo sensor for starting issue. Back of intake, passenger side, tan connector, 2 wire.