Gloyale

You'll be fine. Just don't go charging through.

Look for 2 duty solenoids mounted to the mainifold. Passenger side, near the thermostat housing. Take the aircleaner off, and take some good pics of the engine. Also take a pic of the area in front of the passenger side strut. Post those pics and we can tell you what's what. Funny though that the car would pass previously with that engine. Has it ever been swapped.

You probably had to pull off the rubber trim that is around the edge of the wheel opening. What I've done is reuse that trim on the newly cut edge. just get some nice small trim screws and screw it on. No way 26's wil fit with stock struts. OB struts it will fit for sure. Only way round it would be some wheels with a different backspacing to put the tire out a bit further from the strut. Then stock Legacy struts might work with 26's

Just the top bolt. Starter stays bolted to the Trans.

GD was somewhat correct, there is a hose that should just hang loose in that area. however that isn't it. I have a feeling the 2 hoses are switched. The removed hose in the picture is the breather hose for the Drivers side valve cover. You can see how it is flared slightly at the end and has marks from having a clamp on it. That hose should go from the open port on the air cleaner in the picture down to the valve cover. The hose that comes out of the air cleaner just forward of that one, same size, is the one that should be pointing down at the engine just hanging. Is this car 2wd or a California model? If so, that is part of the Air Suction Vavle/Anti afterburn system. It should run back under the car and hook into the port on the side of the Catalyst. It would have been a black hose from factory. It's probable that you're cat was replaced with a generic without the correct port. If that is the case then that green hose should be capped. If it's not a 2wd or Cali car then someone has swapped in an engine from one. If that was the case you'd need to make sure you don't stil have the *feedback* carb on there running without an ECU. That could throw Emissions off for sure. Just as general pass emmisions advice for an old carbed Subaru; I would spray a bunch of lubricant down into the bottom area of you're distriutor. Often the Mechanical advance weights get sticky and throw off the timing under laod.

Put a noid light on the injectors to test that they are all firing. You might want to pull up the carpet and inspect the famous injector wire junction under the carpet.

The back of the wires (where they enter the connector) is sealed with a rubber gromet. You can just push the tip of you're meter probe right down through it. Also, If you cut the zip tie holding that main harness to the fuel rail, you should be able to pull that connector out to more easily unhook it.

They might not clear the lower spring seat on the stock Legacy front struts. You need Outback struts to gain more clearance there..

Don't go too deep, and don't charge through it fast. nice and steady pace so the water doesn't swamp over the hood.

Actually, 73 is an Identifier code. There is no Flow chart or any other troubleshooting info is in the FSM for codes 11,71,72,73 because they are ID codes presented when the key's ON/Eng OFF. (respective to Cali/fed 2wd/4wd) If the CEL is on while driving and 73 is the only code, then the ECU is not seeing the ignition pulse that should be from the Negative side of the coil, to the ECU. It's not a *fault*, so much as just the ECU thinking the car is not running because it see's no pulse. Jumpering a wire from the Neg of the Coil to the pin on the ECU should serve to bypass the original wire. Sorry, I don't have the ECU pinout here, but search or PM me for info later.

Cracked plug will let the spark *arc* out to the side of the head. Replace that with NGK plug immediately. Use a hand held Vac Pump to test the Vaccuum advance. If it is shot, get a new disty, or send you're vac advance unit to the Philbin group http://www.philbingroup.com/ Also are the slow and primary bleed ports plugged off? T-d into intake? open?

Hmm, I would think if the voltage regulator was functioning, there should be no problem using the XT6 alt. Who said it would fry it? What does Cougar think? He is the one I ussually look for to chime in on Amp/Volt/AC/DC issues.

Why??? Manual transmisison should be fine.

For a 98 I believe you have to use a scan tool. You can have a dealer read the codes. Have them tell you the excact code #, not just a general description of what they say the code is for.

If you plug the PCV and put the filter over the IAC line it would work. But you'd have no real *ventilation* of the crankcase other than the *breather* filters.

Did you ever put the cam case O-rings in???

There is a seal, and a large O-ring each side. Seals are specific to sides, L and R for rotation. Now, There is also a very important detail here. The bearing retainer/cap must be removed to replace the seal. The seals DO NOT simply pry outward around the shaft. They must be tapped out of the retainer cup to the inside. So THE CAP MUST BE REMOVED. Each cap should be removed one at a time. Mark the location of the ring and lock plate with a paint pen. Count the # of turns as you unscrew the retainer. Make sure to pull outward on it as you remove it, the o-ring will make it tight and it can be hard to tell when the retainer has cleared the threads, which will throw you're count of the turns off.

May not be you're issue, but I've seen a few legacys that leaked water around the roof rack mounts. The water leaked in from the roof, but then comes out either at the front during braking, or on either side during cornering. It can seem like either the windshield, or the windows are leaking but actually that is just where the water is coming out.

Depends on whether it's muddy or just rocky, lumpy terrain. And on you're definition of fun:grin:. And this gets to my point. At least on his car, the viscous center works pretty good for transfering power front/rear, even when crawling.(as much as you can crawl with no Low range and 225/75/15s. I should have differentiated between the *fulltime* boxes with the locking center, and the AWD with Viscous center. The Car I was reffering to is a 91 Legacy with viscous center AWD.

Ouch. This picture and a recent trip wheelin in my 2wd sedan:lol: made me want to make some kind of rocker gaurd/reinforcement.

EA82 Carbed blocks have 9:1 compression. Swapping the 7.7:1 turbo pistons in would still be advisable. But that can be done by simply pulling the wrist pins. No need to split the case.

The crack doesn't seem too bad to me. I would definately suspect the Carb and intake gaskets. It's also not uncommon for these engines to smoke quite a bit on start up after headgasket jobs.

It's not supposed to, but it can.

I had the same problem while living in Wisconsin. Rusted U-joint, busted all to hell. Is you're car a 3 door coupe, like a short EA82 wagon?? Or is it a true Hatchback??? The little stubby guy with the EA81 motor? Front end looks like a Brat? If it is a true *Hatchback*, it is an EA81 series, and yes the Brat U-joint will work. If it is an EA82 3 door coupe (like an RX, Front end looks like the Loyales) then you have the *unserviceable* U-joint. If the latter is the case, i'd say it's easiest to get a non rusty west coast junkyard saft shipped for less than $100. They last forever out here. No joke. You can grind out the stake points, press out the old U-joint, press a new one in, and then re-stake it into the yolk, but that type of work is beyond most home mechanics. Plus centering it in the Yolk is near impossible, because there are no premarked indents or snap ring grooves like a *normal* U-joint. I was also not able to find a shop willing to perform this type of replacement. Liability and such.

Sounds like a hydro locked engine to me. Could be from coolant or fuel. You should at least try pulling the spark plugs out, and then cranking it over. I'll bet you expell water or ALOT of fuel out of at least one cylinder. Otherwise you risk bending a rod if it cranks and does decide to fire.