Reveeen

Reality check: EA82 newest is a 1994, 14 years old Tranny no good Motor doesn't run Car 100 miles away (needing towed) The car should be costing you less that the cost of getting it home. Under those conditions I would say "go for it".

I've done fiberglass on an oil pan. Sanding is not enough, you need it rougher, like from a disk grinder. Thoroughly clean, lacquer thinner, acetone, is the key. The repair will fail, you are using (bonding) materials that have different rates of expansion (heat), and contraction (cool), a year is not an unreasonable time frame for failure (if roughed up and cleaned properly).

Fuel pump by rt rear wheel (just ahead) In an emergency I have tapped into the harness under the rt rear seat and stolen power for my fuel pump from my tail light circuit.

I pulled all three of my Subaru cars out of low demand areas. 88DL cost me $90 8 years ago 91 Legacy Sport Sedan cost me $400 a year ago 92 Loyale cost me $60 6 months ago Personally I would not be afraid of A Subaru having in excess of 300,000 miles.

Simply: It depends where you live, the demand for like cars, and the condition of your car. There are what I call Subaru "hot spots", where for some reason Subaru cars get big money, I do not know about where you live. A used car is only worth what someone is willing to pay. The condition, and service records, play a part in determining a "fair" price. Check around locally, see what like vehicles are bringing. If you have an outstanding example think about offering it further afield. I would think you can offer it here, pictures are good.

what the benefit of this is over a regular spfi intake None, in fact less, unless you have the heads to bolt it to. Your non-spider intake has a single intake runner to each of your single intake port heads. The spider intake has two intake runners to each dual intake port head. In combination, (intake, and 2 matching heads) you are looking at 10hp. Certainly not worth getting excited over.

I think Im gonna go with the cummins.my dad hates the japanese cars I really get a "chuckle" out of inane comments like this. Hint: Cummins is a worldwide company, maybe it started in Britain (your dad doesn't "hate" Brits, does he?), but their manufacturing is worldwide. Many the time I have removed a Cummins component, just to see a "made in Japan" stamped on it, or cast into it, give me a break from your "small minded BS". Cummins business units: * U.S. and Canada o Cummins Atlantic o Cummins Bridgeway, LLC o Cummins Cal Pacific, LLC o Cummins Central Power, LLC o Cummins Crosspoint, LLC o Cummins Eastern Canada o Cummins Metro Power o Cummins Mid-South, LLC o Cummins Northeast, Inc. o Cummins Northwest, LLC. o Cummins NPower, LLC o Cummins Power Systems, Inc. o Cummins Power South o Cummins Rocky Mountain, LLC o Cummins Southern Plains, LTD o Cummins West, Inc. o Cummins Western Canada * Latin America * Brazil * Europe o Cummins Adriatic (Croatia) o Cummins Austria GmbH o Cummins Belgium o Cummins Czech Republic o Cummins Diesel Deutschland GmbH o Cummins UK o Cummins Diesel SA (France) o Cummins Diesel Sales & Service A/S (Denmark) o Cummins Holland o Cummins Hungary o Cummins Italia S.p.A. o Cummins Norway A.S. o Cummins Diesel Engine Company Limited Swedish Filial o Cummins Ventas y Servico S. A. (Spain) o Machinery OY Ltd. (Finland) * Africa o Cummins South Africa * Middle East * East Asia * India o Cummins India Ltd. (CIL) o Cummins Sales & Service (India) Ltd. (CS&S(I)) * Northeast/Southeast Asia o Cummins Japan o Cummins Diesel Sales & Service Korea Ltd. o Cummins Philippines * South Pacific The B, C and L series engines are manufactured in numerous plants across the world. And that is what you are buying, a Cummins "B", OH! daddy isn't gonna like that!

Can you do the o-rings in an EA82 without having to do the belts? Sure, you take the belts off, remove the oil pump, and have at it, rebuilding it, putting a new "mickey mouse gasket", and put back what ever belts you choose. BUT: it's not like those belts cost a whole lot, and say they have 40,000 on them, you might as well?

Front, or rear? Even the el-cheapo Chinese rotors I bought last week had bolt holes.

Right, no catalyst.

I seem to recall something about the legacy turbo's not having a bleeder port for the top of the radiator?? Mine doesn't.................. But, if you put the car up on a pair of those el-cheapo ramps, it should fill fine, I know mine does.

Those are some expensive extra welds! Ahhhhhhhh.......... it's ok, I have been told: Once the supply of 44104AA010 runs out that the part number will update to the 44614AA000 number. ALL Subaru 2.0/2.2/2.5 turbo pipes fit in the same spots, no matter the year, the only exception is the up pipe found in the WRX models with the TD04, whose bolt pattern is a small bit different. Never mind the welds, aftermarket "go-fast" stuff is running 50% of OEM, and I am quoting "best Canadian wholesale price" (the dealer is paying less).

All it took was "just one look" at the above link to convince me. Saving you the click: Transtar Partner Program Access special partner program resources online. Login to the system with your account number and password. * AAMCO Transmissions * Cottman Transmissions BOTH rip-off "specialists"

Sometimes squeezing off the flexible brake line (so the brake fluid doesn't run out, when changing a caliper) can collapse the inner portion of it causing a "problem" much as you describe, and/or cause an apparent caliper "problem".

As was stated: it is probably new pump time. You can try hand lapping it on a piece of plate glass (this works sometimes with hydraulic pumps), but a new pump (in this case) is so cheap, and a new motor considerably more expensive than a new pump, that only in some kind of extreme case, is it worth the bother, and risk.

you should consider the model/year Ok............ "I have an 01 outback with the 3.0 motor and an AUTO tranny" I don't *think* it is much of a "leap of faith" to say that a 01 outback with the 3.0 motor, and an AUTO tranny wouldn't have a "top" tank, do you?

I had not *thought* to try Subaru (for an STI pipe). Ok.......update: Stock pipe: 44104AA010 $305.96 STI pipe: 44614AA000 $496.65 These are the best prices I can wiggle out of my local Subaru dealer. Side by side: they are for all intents and purposes identical. Same diameter piping, same style heat shields, same flanges, no cat. STi Up-pipe has a big "P" printed on it. STi Up-pipe has a slightly different heat sheild mounting braket (Same bolt spacing though) than the Leg Turbo. STI Up-pipe heat sheilds are welded in more spots both pipes have different part numbers

A car radiator is comprised of a central core (flattened tubes with fins attached) connected to an inlet tank at one end and an outlet tank at the other. Many modern radiators have plastic tanks, rather than the brass ones previously used, and often have aluminum cores. When brass was used (often with copper cores), the tanks were soldered to the core. Plastic tanks are typically crimped to the core, with a gasket of some type between them. (A car with auto trans often has a trans cooler, usually in the outlet tank, as well.) But, in this case, THERE IS NO TOP TANK! There are "side tanks", but no "top tank".

The up pipe is the pipe in the whole system that runs the hottest. The Perrin pipe is well engineered, but lacks an expansion joint, maybe I'm wrong, but either it will crack, or the lower exhaust manifold will crack, as something in this situation has to be able to "give". http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/210/Up-pipe-?category=6&model=10 The BPM is identical to the other, well, I'm not going to say "el-cheapo" pipes out there, but it is at the lower end of the cost scale, and they have taken the trouble to place the expansion joint away from the bend, so it should flow ok. I bought a BPM crossover pipe and have no complaints about that product. http://www.bpmsports.com/products/images/BPMUpPipeandXVRPipe.jpg The Cobb up pipe is a completely different animal, is in a different price range, and too has no expansion joint. It is a cast pipe, and probably will work the best, but I worry about cracking, specifically that expensive, hard to find used, exhaust manifold. http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=2442 I had not *thought* to try Subaru (for an STI pipe). I tried Subaru for a crossover pipe, and at $400, I went elsewhere. I'll go and see them tomorrow.

I unfortunately find myself in the market for a turbo up pipe. Any *thoughts* on the available after market offerings (eg: Cobb, BPM, Perrin)? And as a related item: Anybody have any for sale (before I dig deep and buy)?

i've never had to replace a subaru caliper and i've had a ton of vehicles over 150k. 300,000 miles (average) here, in fact calipers on Subaru cars are about the most trouble free part here, but don't get me started on aluminum wheel cylinders! Being in nevada is not an easy life for a car. Ok, I'll remember that next time I have to repair a rusted out frame.

my '83 needs new calipers (front). One can only wonder why a Nevada car might need new calipers? I am going to be honest and say I have no idea what caliper parts cost for your car, but for a Loyale front, I paid something like .25 for a new bleeder, and $6 for the rebuild rubbers (square "o" ring and dust shield). My sliders and slider rubbers (boots) were ok. This was on a very rusty east coast car. What makes you think you need new calipers?

If you mean "turning the heater fan on" and the temp rises, I would *suspect* an electrical "issue" rather than a temperature issue.

Just in from a 1200mi trip with my '91 Legacy Sport Sedan (2.2 turbo vegomatic) averaged 32 mpg in hilly terrain 4 lane cruse control set @ 104 km/hr (2500 rpm). Runs rich (tailpipe black). I approach 36 mpg on the flat under the same conditions.

Try "John Stewart Power Brake" in Stony Creek Ontario for a rebuilt.