SmashedGlass

There's always this gem, if you want to come down to Florida to grab it http://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/4533551943.html

Nothing exciting. Finally got my new genuine OEM Subaru fuel level sender with thermistor in the mail, and installed. Apparently, I have more gas in my tank than I thought.....

I'd second you having gotten a wet dizzy. If it ran for several minutes after, no matter how crappily, it pushed any water it inhaled into the cylinders out.

Thanks much!

I second the brushes thing. I cleaned my plugs and opened up the cover to the motor, cleaned up some of the grease that had got on to where the contacts rub on the drum(?) as well as took some fine sand paper to the contacts. Now I have intermittent wipers again; before, they would operate a few times, stop, maybe work again, maybe not. Now they work fine, except they'll move an inch or two...pause....complete the cycle up and down...move up an inch or two...pause...complete the cycle....etc. Better than being completely random!

Can someone post a link to Nico's thread? Can't seem to find it again.

Nice work, man

Nope. Not even close. Too deep to fit in the Loyale dash, and the wiring systems are too different (Loyales and other earlier Subes use a common grounding system for the speakers). You will need to rewire everything to work, and have schematics for the stereo systems for both Loyale and Outback available.

^ just.....no.

That is a beautifully clean RX!

El Paso (Colorado Springs area) county ended emissions testing in 2007 I believe.

Nope. Damn dirty horse thieves.

Thanks for posting. And damn, I need to get my hands on a set of '88 FSM's. Hate not having a set, usually the first thing I buy after picking up a new/old car.

Yes, or a chunk of dirt blocking a contact. Also, apparently you have to make sure you damn near slam the hatch shut, or sometimes it won't trigger the switch to open condition

IIRC, you can bypass the pulser system by jumping the wires together to the pulser control unit, located behind the glove box, and system operates normally. Check post #3 here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119625-ac-help/

Barely, but the stock visors are fairly....flexible. Where they do just barely touch when lowering or raising them, combined with how stiff the Chrysler mirror arm is, there is no jostling of the mirror. It's mounted to the glass with a new Chrysler mirror button and the 3M mirror adhesive. I could've placed it a bit lower on the glass and then there'd be no touching from the visors at all, but I screwed up my guesstimation when setting up the harness and reinstalling the headliner, didn't leave enough slack in the harness to place it lower than where I put it. It's good in that spot though.

Got it sorted. I don't know how, but it works proper now. All I did was take the latch out, clean it off, and put it back in---another one of those situations where simply pulling the parts out and putting them back in magically cures a problem.

Yeah, everything is mounted up correctly, and the wiring is fine too; it's a simple open/closed circuit setup for the switched light. One screw to the dome light assy is the ground for the 'main' light, the second wire runs to the latch switch. It being such a simple system, and having swapped around the two wires to the switch and had same result, tells me that something is fubar with the switch itself.

Weird issue with the rear cargo area dome light on my '88 wagon. --Light lever flipped forward, light is permanently on. Check, works correct. --Light lever in middle, no light gate (hatch) open or closed. Check, works correct. --Light lever flipped to rear....Light comes on and stays on with gate closed, turns off 2-3 seconds after opening gate and releasing handle. NOT correct. Like the main dome light when it's set to work off the door switches, in that rear position the light should (unless there is some bizarre logic here) be ON with the gate open but OFF with the gate shut. Not the other way round as mine is doing. I removed the gate latch assembly, which is where the switch is located that works the light when it is set to open=on/closed=off, but there is no way to actually get to the switch (whole latch actuator assembly riveted together around switch), I even tried swapping the two wires around....No bueno. Anyone else ever seen this happen with the rear gate/cargo light? I think the switch in the latch assembly is somehow internally screwed up, though I don't see how it could magically reverse it's operating mode.

Finished wiring and mounting the Gentex-177 auto-dimming rearview mirror with compass and temperature display, that I pulled from some fat Chrysler SUV in a pick'n'pull before leaving Colorado in '12. Yes, it really IS that hot at 8pm here.

Check and adjust the roller guides at the top of the door. You can access the nuts to adjust them with the interior panel off the door. Don't snug them up too tightly, or you may have a problem with the motor fighting to raise the window against the friction.

Yeah, that back, very last clip on that piece is a bit finicky. Best way to get everything right is to carefully remove that clip from the body first; seat it into the retaining groove for it on that horizontal trim piece, making sure the nipple is angled correctly (forward); then get it aligned into the hole with the lower diagonal trim piece lip trapped. Once you know it is in, give the trim piece a good whack with the palm of your hand. Should stay put.

Elaborate on exactly what 'panels' you are referring to. A picture would help.

Jeszek, that UEL exhaust is awesome! Is it for yours?

What he said. In my experience with scrapping a few, they send a flat-hauler out which is perfectly capable of winching a car sans drivetrain up onto itself.