The Dude Abides

Yea its not a oval track its a roac course. Legacys are heavy as hell huh. I thought about a DL or a GL with a legacy motor and tranny but the suspension is key also. I need something i can either up grade or modify. And wheels are key also because its easier to bomb around a course with 16inch steelies vs 13inch or hard to find 15 inch.

So i have been asked to be a driver / mechanic in the 24 hour of lemons race next year. Now also i am one of a couple given the duty of finding a car. The rules state that you cant spend no more then 500 bucks on this lemon to race it. So here is what im looking for. It needs to be fast so all loyale and there brothers are out. It needs to be light so all station wagons are out. I want it to be awd. I need it to last a constant 24 hours. So im thinking 90-94 subaru legacy awd 5 speed. It doesnt need to look good it just needs to run and drive. It will be gutted and all glass removed most likely. If you can think up of any other car i would be interested in hearing what you had to say. Ben

So i should check out the cables before i second guess the battery.

You know this started happening after mudcoast. I wonder if i pushed back the rad craddle when i hit that mud hole hard.

Just curious if there is a way to adjust the hood popper. Mine is extremely tight am im afraid ill just break it. I need to use all my might to pull the cord to pop the hood.

Ok update. Jump started the car tonight and it ran fine. Had it running for 30 minutes while i looked over certain things made sure a couple of things were ship shape. Turned the car off then went to turn it back on (click) nada. So in saying this. The alternator is good enough to keep all the lights, interior lights and everything else powered when the car is running. But the battery probally has a dead cell causeing it not to be able to get charged. Or is it possible the terminals and wires are so crudded up from neglect that there not allowing current to get back to the battery to charge it. Theres a pretty good onion growing on the positive terminal but its been six months since ive cleaned up the last one. 99.9 percent sure its the battery but who knows. I need to clean up the electrical connections so that will be my sunday project. On a side note, anyone know why my headlights and interior lights might flicker every once in a while.

Most of the batterys i have checked run 14.50 when charging on the car.

So im almost 99% sure the battery crapped out on my taurus. It will start with a jump and when its running it puts out 14.50 volts on the voltimeter. When i turn on the headlights and the heater it still puts out 14.50 volts which leats me to believe the alternator is doing its job. But the battery doesnt seem to be holding a charge. After i jumped it it started 4 times after then and then it was dead. I let it run for about 15 minutes after i jumped it. While it was running the interior lights would flicker alittle bit makeing me think the alternator might be at fault. Im new to useing the multimeter but i know i hooked it up right. Any suggestions.

Wow interesting thread. The s-10 blazer with the 4.3 is a far better vehicle then a 4runner. Sorry its just one of those chevy nitch vehicles that just worked. And +1 on the yotas being really overpriced. I had a guy want 3k for a 4 runner all rusted out with 200k on the clock. It still could be the rear main for the leak though. How fast is it coming out.

Sorry to hear about this tom. Best of luck fixing it, what do you think the insurance company is going to say when you take it to a body shop to paint match.

Since youve got the holes why not put in another cross brace between the 2 plates to make it more ridgid. http://desmoines.craigslist.org/pts/1910923477.html

LOL ok ill forgive you............ this time.

Wow.

Its koo wasnt tryin to get on your butt. Keep posting about your headlights i am interested in the outcome.

I already adressed this for you my man. The middles unscrew from the top pad. If you get someone to get you nicer door panels from a GL you can unscrew the middle from the pads and mount the pads on your existing pannels. You can even use the new bottoms on the front if necessary. When you get your pannels you just need to look at the back of the door pannels and thell explain themselves. I recomend you do this when you are installing your door speakers. Also i wouldnt think you would need more then 6 1/2 for the front doors. Plenty of speakers in that size range.

http://www.roadrallycharities.com/videos/ Check out the 2010 mud coast video. You might recognize a couple soobs but you wont see them in action.

Its just unique like me. I love the looks it brings. Shock and awe effect. I wont get rid of this until something catrostraphic happens.

Hey man i know you dont live in town but you should go to the exhaust guy we have here. He fixes mick up all the time and he fixed my exhaust headers really good. He specializes in custom exhaust.

Let me explain this before i start. We have been getting alot of rain, 41 counties are declaired under advisory and ames is all but cut off from the world right now. Buy the way McBrat lives just south of ames but hes on high ground so he should be ok. I wanted to get some pics of the stuff so i thought id mount up the suby and head out. I found this kick a** trail right along the river. But with no recovery gear, no cell phone, and no buddy i didnt venture to far but it was still fun. I only had alittle time before work to do this so i dont have many pictures. And my clicky CV shaft has gotten worse after i stretched it a couple times so i didnt want to push my luck. For what they are heres the pictures. This isnt suspost to be this big, its a stream normally. 3 days of 5 inch rains have taken a toll. Guido contemplating a river crossing. Playin in the woods Leaving the trail, didnt want to get into trouble

Yea i wouldnt mind doing this upgrade. But when i got the car i bought the silverstars because i had a headlight out. I didnt expect them to last this long but there still going strong. But your right, not near as strong as the conversion you are talking about.

Weve had alot of rain, and no one wants to go mudding. Im gonna go check it out. Pics to come.

Type of Wrenching - Shadetree Automotive and Motorcycle, Professional Aircraft What - Ive worked on just about every average joe gasoline engine still made today. From Acuras to VWs, For aircraft i do work for boeing, lockheed, honeywell, airbus, bell, etc... How long doing it - The airplane stuff only 4 years. Automotive probally 15. Ive been into cars since i was 5. Started collecting them when i was 10. 1st repair job i did was changed my stepdads tire on his red dodge d-50 pickup. Ive never pulled a motor or tranny but ive worked on everything else. All self taut, just learned from my mistakes. Other skills - I have diped into alittle home repair fixing broken pipes and sinks. Done alittle electrical, furnature repair, computer repair. Kinda a jack of all trades but a master of none.

Im pretty sure you will need to upgrade some wireing but i run the sylvan silverstars on my DL and they work great. They dont have alot of the blue hue that the light bulbs do. I hear GE Nighthawks are the brightest factory light available without upgrading wireing. Others have upgraded so they will be able to help more. I drove my DL as a daily driver for 4 years with the silverstars and they have worked great.

Ok thanks GD, thats above my abilities. Ill keep checking the JY for a impreza.

So i found a perfect set of blue 1993 legacy seats in the junkyard. I would like to know how hard the swap over to the ea82 is and if anyone has done this befrore (im sure there are). A search yielded only ea81 swap info and late legacy, impreza info. Im looking for 1st gen legacy info. Ben