The Dude Abides

I didnt mean dirty as unclean, just dusty. I found my NGK stuff at napa. When you get to cooling problems stick to subaru only. RockAuto.com and 1stsubaru.com are excelent places to get parts online. Yea sorry about your cv shaft problem. Thats 1 MORE thing. Yet another thing these cars like is a brand new axel. They remanufactured ones tend to be not as good of qualty. Theres a guy in colorado that rebuilds them to better then factory specs. Prices are good also but i dont recall the name off hand. Good luck to ya, atleast you have backup. When mine brakes down its all i got.

I was going to say a hood scoop but that is awsome. I think it would look best on the hood where it raises up.

UH OH im anticipating a good story.

Im glad you made it home with out a tow. Let me answer a couple of your questions. These are very basic, non high performance motors so whatever stock NGK replacements you can find will be perfect. The motors are only rated at about 98hp brand new so over time that gets alittle worse. The reason i recomend NGK is because folks on here recomended NGK to me. It is the OEM essential brand for replacement parts. I dont know what kind of automotove experience you have but your basic plugs, wire, cap, rotor is a good start for a tuneup. If you were at the front of your car faceing the motor, the fuel filter is in the upper right hand corner next to the firewall. ITs about 4 to 5 bucks to replace and should be done when doing a tuneup. Your maf is the electronic box located after the air filter. It measure airflow onto a sensor. If its dirty (which being in vegas it should be) it will not allow your car to selfadjust it self for airflow whatnot and not get as good gas mileage and run poorly. Just another tuneup thing thats easy and cheap to do. Remove the air box and look inside the tube you will see alittle wire hangine inbetween the tubes. Clean that with Maf Cleaner and your good to go. Your CV shaft is a different issue. I have had mine clicking for 3 years now. Its on borrowed time when it goes but im told that if it does go and your in the middle of nowhere, you can pop it into 4wd and it should get you home. As far as what you paid for it, i still think thats a good price. The lack of A/C system sucks in your part of the world and im sure you might be able to add it on but it would probally cost what you paid for the car. You could always try to find the parts in a bone yard and have someone else install it and charge it. You can narrow down your fuel issue then ask for your replacement part on the board here. There are folks on the board who have a yard full of cars. And parts are cheep. As far as your tires go, your in luck because 13inch tires are mega cheep. But if you wanted to lift it or lower it there are some other wheel options but none extremely easy. Subaru uses 4x140 bolt which is used only buy only one other car company Peugeot. This wheel requires no modification but wheels are hard enough to find let alone the special lugnuts that go with them. You can always redrill 6 lug truck wheels but that again has its drawbacks. Though you havent mentioned anything about wheels i thought you should know anyways. You have a very special car. I believe 89 was the last year of the touring wagon, last year of the dual range, last year before they got cheap. That should be it for now.

Ok i have a question and be nice because this is coming from a guy who is old school. When i was discussing redrilling the wheels with him because he has a drill press he said it was stupid and dangerious. He said (and this made sense) that the factory holes on the 6 lugs were beefed up and had more metal around where the lugs go then the metal around that and it would in fact be extremely dangerious do drill them like this. Now i know many many of you have driven, and wheeled with these like that but i was curious as to what you though of his less then metal theory. I understand you can flip the nut or taper it down alittle bit but i think his question had valor which is why i ask it to all of you.

How much did you pay. It looks good but you should be paying less then 800 bucks for a semi working non ac car in arizona. You have a touring wagon which is somewhat rare. Tuneups are pretty standard on these things. Use NGK plugs and wires and all will be well. Replace the fuel filter, air filter. Cap and Rotor, they like OEM stuff. Clean the MAF up. Could the timeing belts be out on one side boys, is that why it will idle but not really move. As far as the engine if its was a turbo then you would have problems. But its not, so you should be ok. Make sure the cooling system is toped off. Is there a way you can rent a UHaul Dolly and haul the thing back. All you would need to do is remove the rear driveshaft for safety sake and you could do that. As far as AC goes. Your car doesnt have it. It might of had it at one time but looking at your engine pic i dont see the compresser or the lines. There were 2 types of AC systems for these cars. One before and after the alternator. Looking at your alternator it looks fairley new. Ive never seen that pully system before. You should hose out the engine bay, typical arizone dusty car. Other then that stuff good find. Dont worry about the miles thats not a huge deal. Im jealous your car is in great shape. Just get the fuel issue straightned out and you should be ok. If you have a leak in the fuel system wouldnt that cause it to have idle problems. Good luck and keep us informed. Great place here you might not know alot about these cars but alot of people on here do.

You need dual range in this park.

uhhhhhhhhhh thats me.

Mine isnt rusted but i think there was something wrong with this one before. The pipes look like theyve been welded on before. There are welded marks and bigger pipes so it might of been rusty at one point and was fixed. I dont know.

Sweet, rock the DL. The only mechanical difference you can have is DLs have a single range 4wd system and GLs have a dual range. 88 and up all have Fuel Injection. You can upgrade to Rear Disc brakes which drasticly improve stopping power. Depending on what you want to do with the car there are areas you can go. I will say that restoring these cars isnt to expensive but kinda a waste of time. I mean i like my car but its just a cheep econo box. If you want to go that route like people have said check the local junkyards, and look on the forsale sections here because people part these cars alot. You can lift, you can lower, you can put just about any subaru engine in these cars. People are jealous of our headlight setup because the GL headlights suck for viewing. You cant exchange the Instrument cluster for the ones with the tach without alot of work. Look up various upgrades and whatnot in the serch function. You never did say if you had 4wd or 5 speed. Try to check out where the oil leaks and coolant leaks are coming from.

Really messed up my exhaust saturday. Still trying to figure out how to repair it cheeply.

I would think the sheer bulk of the thing would make it expensive. Its quite large.

That would be great and i appreciate it but shipping would be expensive on that with the cat converter on it. Its pretty heavy isnt it. And thats the delema on which one would cost more money. Honestly this is the 1st time ive really looked at these pipes and theyve had soem exhaust trouble before in the past. Which is why i think it would be best to start with the other 4 holes and be done with it. But if you have it and your not useing it you could just hack off the pipe pieces i need and i can have them fab up something here with the stock y pipe i have.

Ok it will be a while before i can get pics but let me explain what happened in more detail. My father in law was kind enough to let me use his warehouse to work on my car. 1 definately need to find that oil and coolant leek but i digress. Get the car up on the ramps and go check out the exhaust. I can see im in a pickle already because im going to need to remove the skid plate and the y pipe to get at this thing. I remove all the studs being carefull and let the y pipe hang off the bracket attached to the subframe buy the mid pipe. I move the pipe out of the way and position my drill. I drill and it stops, im like WTF so i back off and drill again. Stops, so after this now im getting wet because the snow is dripping off the underside of my car because its 60 degrees in the shop which buy the way was the only amazing thing about the whole situation. Now i had all my hand tools with me but some things i didnt have. Another thing about being in my fathers inlaws warehouse is he has a ton of tools. So im like ok im doing this wrong ill get a smaller drill bit and work my way up. Put the smaller one in and it digs in and stopps. So im like WTH. I take a look and a bit of metal is sticking out so im like, this friggin thing has been helicoiled before. So i slowly turn out whats left of the helicoil out and look at it. The previous owner did a friggin number on this thing so i drill it, and im stupid and i start drilling past the threads into the bottom of the head. I dont know how far i got but dont ask. So i start thredding, during this im bumping the y pipe out of the way. So then it slips off the hanger buy the y pipe which didnt have a bolt in it and twists off smashing the exhaust down on my face. Now i have a severly fu**ed hole and my car is still going to be loud with the busted pipe. So i take a step back and look things over. Thats when i noticed that the gasket that was on there there is only the wire mesh left and there isnt much of that left. So i have a car with a busted hole, broken exhaust and no gasket to repair it. I feel like kicking the dam thing but i dont. I fire it up and reposition it in the shop where its dry since most of the snow has stopped melting. I raid my inlaws tools. Grab Jackstands, and a few other things. I finish tapping the hole which looked like poo. I run my bolt i picked up and boy did i overestimate the size. I raid yet again my inlaws bolt supply and find the shortest 7/16 bolt i can find. Its still to long so i grab a hand full of washers, I WILL LEAVE THIS SHOP UNDER ITS OWN POWER. I have no money for replacement things so i take my wifes words of advice. She says, you can cobble it together. I position the jackstands up under the y pipe to hold it up and work on putting the one good gasket but now i cant find it. It was just there for crine out loud. 20 MINUTES latter i find it slit up under the engine where i couldnt find it Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Ok so i put my neverseze on the bolts because i know ill be doing this again. Slide it on it fights me slide it on agian and fights me. So i bodyslam the g darn thing and then it rests where it should be. Tighten up one bolt then the other size then the other size then the oversize hole with 8 washers on it. Its holding woohoo but its still hanging because i didnt position it back on the hanger buy whats left of my exhaust. I try banging pulling moving nothing nada so i unbolt the y pipe yet again re position it on the hanger then move it bolt it which takes several several several several several times. Run the bolts back up tighten them just tight enough, then fire the engine up. It runs ok and is sealed somewhat but definately worse then before. I limp it home trying to think of my next plan. Heres what im going to do. I posted something in the Wanted for someone to cut up a y pipe and send me the flanges with 4 to 5 inches of pipe. Buy the way one of my pipes has been worked on and way oversized and unreusable. Im going to use the 4 other studs that arent used and get some new gaskets and attach them to the new studs. Get over to a muffler shop and have them reattach the new pipe to the old y pipe and maybe have them weld in a pipe to replace the mid pipe. I might replace the pipe myself then ask them to weld it up to save some bucks. But then again terrys is really reasonable and dont overcharge for simple stuff.

You takeing orders eventually.

I like terry to mick but no money. If i ever get some bucks i will see what he says. Oh and anyone local, i have had terry do a few exhaust systems on my cars and he does do awsome work. I need someone to cut the why pipe. Reconfigure it to the other 4 studs. Then reweld it to the y pipe. Then cut the mid pipe off and put a solid pipe there. Simple but probally 100 bucks.

Car might be going to the scrapyard after this one.

Not so easy GD. 1st off the hole was already helicoiled so it busted up the drill bit. I had to remove the skitplate to even thread the hole. While that was going on the exhaust fell off the hanger and ripped off the midpipe which stripped out another hole. Bolt was too long and there was nothing left of the gasket. So yea now i have no car.:-\ which is exactly what i didnt want to happen.

West Des Moines, Iowa is a ways away from you. If i ever make it to a WCSS ill half to do that.

Id love to come up and raid your parts yard.

Here ya go.

The measurements figure out to be 27 inches if you went with a 205-75-15 or a 215-75-15. You might need alittle trimming or bashing but nothing drastic. I dont know how extreme of offroading your planning on doing but check out The Beast I Drive, he has 31s or 33s and he has a lift about where your wanting. Spend lots of time in the off road section and you will see what others have done. Theres even a thread on 2010 off road vehicles so you should bet a good idea on what others are doing.

Believe me i like 14s because they fit better for the lift i want. But we dont get those tires around here your talking about, we would need to order them online. Plus 14s are cheeper then others so that is a better option for me. But again i say we just dont have the options here you guys on the coasts do.

What offset are you thinking of useing. I like the dodge d50 wheels. They tuck nicely in the wheel wells. I think the standard black and white would be fine for colors, maybe red. Some people might go for chrome because they wont need to drill through chrome. 15x5 - 15x6. I like the idea of 14s but that tire size is becomeing anchient history.

LOL well when i get my welded diff ill switch up to electric fan.