subaru360

Isn't the viscous LSD fluid separate from the gear oil in those? And it doesn't need changing? The clutch type needs the fluid with the additive. I could be off, but that is what I remember.

They both should use the same one, mounted on the intake.

The cam and crank triggers on the sprockets are the same. The sensors are different. Just swap sensors. I think the throttle body will fit, but you should just try it, it only would take a few mins, 4 bolts and a plug and some hoses.

Yes, the person who worked on this car for the current owner prior to me working on it had tried to install your EA81 and a D/R 5 speed into this car :-\

The non-outback legacy wagons have a little stronger spring rate in the rear. It'll still work fine in a sedan.

I think most NZ cars are JDM spec. So it probably does not have EGR on the 2.5. If that's the case, you may get away with swapping all the sensors and wiring from your old 2.5 onto the new 2.2.

The only problems I have heard of with the system is if you don't change the oil the filter screens before the solenoids clog up.

All EJ engine blocks are the same width. The DOHC heads are bigger. The engine is about 3-4" wider. I have both here, I will try and remember to measure them.

The pedal height is adjusted by the clutch pedal switch. Move it in or out to raise or lower the pedal. There are nuts on both sides of the switch. You have to reset the freeplay after you adjust the pedal height. The free play is adjusted at the trans end of the cable under the hood on cable clutch cars or at the pushrod above the gas pedal under the dash on hydraulic clutch cars.

On a 91 legacy? Use the stock parts. Nothing you do will add power just noise.

EJ sohc is about the same as the old stuff time wise. EJ dohc takes a bit longer. Both are easy work. I HATE, HATE, HATE working on EA82. I like the older EA stuff.

No, it won't fit without cutting the frame rails a lot, if you can even get it in there. You might even have to notch the rails a bit for the sohc. Yes, you can put the sohc phase 1 heads on the 2.5 dohc phase 1 block, but it will raise the compression.

I just got sent a pic of the Superoo at it's first race in 20+ years.

WRX ones will not fit the front. The turbo ones are shaped different. An Impreza one should fit. They all look the same to me, but I haven't tried it. There are various diameter bars also so if you get a larger or smaller one, get the bushings to match.

The lift looks ok, but those wheels are ugly.

Yeah you can. It's a little tricky, you have to fish the head out with the bolts still in it but loosened. You can take out the motor mount nuts and jack the engine up and shove it all the way to the other side to gain more room. I just pull the engine, it's much easier. It only takes 45 mins to an hour to pull the engine out once you have done a few.

The factory DBW mapping leaves a lot to be desired. Lot of people with STI's and WRX's complain about it. I could tune this out with rom raider (free tuning software) but technically, it voids the warranty on a brand new car.

I use an air impact with the belt still on. If the engine is in the car you have to have the radiator out and the a/c condensor flipped out of the way. If that's not an option for you, the 3 foot bar is the way to go, these things are really tight. If you round it off, drill the center out until the head of the bolt comes off. Then you can get the rest out by hand.

It's common, I've seen a few leak there. I have no idea if it will get worse, I've always fixed it. Phase 2 SOHC head gaskets are easy to do.

Try another sensor if you have a spare. Measure the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge if that's not it. If the idle is really low the light could come on.

If you get those made, I will take a few sets.

I've done 3 phase 2 2.5 engines with bottom end trouble this year. A knocker, a siezed up one and one with a rod through the block.

There was a post on nasioc about this the other day. Subaru has a service bulletin about this. A thermosistor or something like that needs to be replaced under the dash for the mist out the vents. It doesn't seem like a quick or easy fix. Mine has done the mist out the vents a few times. I can deal with it. My compressor went out not too long ago, that I fixed, I couldn't deal with no AC at all. I hated that the defroster kicks on the AC compressor. I took apart the AC controls and took out the microswitch that kicks the compressor on when you turn it to defrost. No more foggy windows on defrost.

I wash engines at the car wash all the time. The worst that ever happens is sometime you fill the spark plug wells with water and get a miss until you dry it out. Modern subaru engines have all the connectors weather sealed. Just use common sense and don't spray too much water where it doesn't belong. Here in PA it's perfectly acceptable to clean engines at the car wash. They even have engine degreaser that comes out of the sprayers specifically for that. I'm assuming the waste water is dealt with somehow, but really have no clue, the stalls have floor drains.

I can't recall if that year was solid lifters or hydraulic. If it's solid you can adjust them. If it's hydraulic it takes a bit of driving for them to pump back up. If it doesn't go away one or more may be collapsed or you may have clogged an oil passage with silicone if you used it in the repairs.