subaru360

Yup the intake manifold. It's shaped kind of like an M. Tie one end of your strap to each front runner. It will balance nicely like that as you pull it or drop it.

What I usually do for a hit like that is repair the innner fender in front of the strut tower as best as possible by pulling and hammer and dolly work. Then I drill out all the spot welds and replace the core support or possibly looking at your pic just the upper bar of the core support. It looks like that hit was above the frame rail so it should be an easy fix. Being an older car, you don't have to do show quality work on the inner structure either, just get it straight enough to bolt on the fender. Good luck!

That looks fixable to me. Cut the inner structure from a junkyard car. Drill out the spotwelds, weld in what's needed, some used lights hood and fender and you're back on the road. I don't know if it's worth it thought, you could probably buy another one just like it for less than $1000.

It's on the passenger side of the engine compartment towards the rear. It's not in a fuse bluck, it's just a single fuse holder, it will say "FWD" on the cover.

Jack under the trans for sure. But the pitch stopper on an EJ bolts to the trans, so that's not going to work too well:) Best way to do it is a strap tied to the intake runners one on each side.

You'll find it's easier to swap engines on a subie than a chevy. There's only two vacum hoses and 3 electrical plugs to unplug to pull the engine. You can just unbolt the p/s and the a/c and put them off to the side, no need to disconnect the lines. To pull it tie a strap (I use an old seatbelt) to the intake runners, one on each side.

Some tapping is normal. It could need the valves adjusted, 2000 should be solid lifters. A little cold piston slap is normal too. Sometimes on those the timing belt tensioner goes bad and makes a knocking noise. If you are still considering the car take it to somebody who can tell you if it's a "normal" subaru noise or something going bad.

That is a fair price. The one owner older people thing is good too.

Yeah I'm guessing it would work out ok. I might get one of those little trailers or the carrier, I'm deciding. I like the carrier idea, with the grate on the bottom I could stop at the car wash on the way back from the junkyard and pressure wash the engines there and keep the mess at home to a minimum. But the small trailer could haul my 360 around as well as engines. I've already got a big car hauler trailer but it's a lot to take out just to haul one engine or the 360.

Does anyone know how much a complete EJ engine weighs without acessories? I'm thinking like 300 lbs or so. It can't be that much, I can lift one myself if I really try. I haul them around a lot and was thinking of getting one of those hitch mounted carriers so I don't have to put greasy junkyard engines inside my suburban anymore. Harbor Freight has them on sale now 500 lb capacity $57.

Yeah a shop is not necessarily doing a bad job if they don't mill the heads. If they measure them and the block and all is well it's ok to put it back together. If you read the factory manual and the endwrench articles on head gaskets, they say to measure them for straightness and even show a pic of how it should look when cleaned up. You don't need to get it shiny new clean, that's actually bad, since you are removing material, which can give you low spots. The originals fail because the material they used is no good. You can see where the gasket material pushes out into the water jacket under the cylinders. The latest MLS ones are great. A MLS gasket can't fail in the way the originals did. I don't have any with 100,000 miles on them, but I know some have maybe 20,000 on them so far no problems.

There is nothing wrong with just replacing the gaskets. You need to check the heads for warpage with a straightedege and a feeler gauge and inspect the block and head surface for any damage. If they aren't warped or damaged, they don't need to be milled. I have done tons of HG's without milling the heads and have never had a repeat failure.

If it really is a transmission going bad, on an older impreza, used is a better choice. Get one from a junkyard. Most of them will give you a 30 day warranty. It shouldn't be more than a few hundred. Shop for one on http://www.car-part.com

I registered with my 360. I might bring the WRX too, not sure yet, I'd need to put a trailer hitch on it first to pull the 360.

It's way way too high. Is this just a plain legacy not an outback, gt or lsi? Even with the low miles it's worth 5,000 tops.

Yeah search out the best deals. Try posting wanted ads with what you want and what you have to spend. That's how I found my wrx. It wasn't much more than that impreza you looked at either.

Next step is a compression test. If that checks out, you should test the injectors.

It seems like a good car. The previous owner probably took care of it. I wouldn't pay that much, but I'm cheap, it's not a bad price really.

I pull the glass back and use a coat hanger to hit the power lock button. I've done it many times. I have a few slim jims, but they don't work well on Subaru doors.

If its an auto it's tough to get it out the top with the engine, but it can be done. Five speed comes out the top with the engine ok. My favorite yard has all the cars sitting on stands. They don't allow any jacks in the yard, but you can rent a big hoist on wheels. To get a trans I usually unbolt everything, then grab a tire and put it under the trans. Slide the trans off the studs onto the tire, pull the tire out and then drag the trans out from under the car. It's a dirty messy job, but I can get a trans cheap so it's worth it. Pulling junkyard engines is much easier, I have it down to about an hour now.

Looking at that wiring, I think that is where your problem is. Off the top of my head, I think the broken conneector is the crank sensor and the other is several other engine sensors. You should fix that right and go from there. After the wiring repairs, check for continiuty with an ohm meter. It almost looks like you have the pins touching and shorted.

The seller somehow managed to take the pics so that the rust was all hidden in the shadows. The bottoms of the front fenders under the mudflaps were gone, I could lift the fenders up off the car. The lips of both rear quarters weren't there either. It looked awesome in the pics. Oh well.

I think I talked to the guy in pottstown about that one once. For some reason we didn't go look at it, I don't recall why.

To start with, does the tach go up when you crank it? That's a good first step. If you have a scan tool that can display sensor values that is an easy way to check. Or connect a voltmeter to the 2 wires off the sensors, set it to AC volts and see if it reads anything. Do you have fuel pressure and injector pulse?

You should put some wrx wheels on that, it would look good with them and you can pick them up cheap on ebay, nasioc or craigslist. My 02 wrx came with a 6 disc changer with weather band, it's not bad, the previous owner said it was from a newer forrester.