EVOthis

yeah i wouldnt go to the dealer for that...certain other parts definately but i would try and find some online...i think i picked up 2 of them for like 50$....... I have heard of people duct taping them also.....

yes... you can check the inner and outer tie rod ends by either a doing a dry park test or by jacking up the front end of the car and grasping the tire at 3 and 9 oclock and try to move the tire back and forth and feel/look for excessive play in that area....the dry park test is simple...if you have access to a rack type lift you can drive the car up on the rack and get an assistant to sit in there....raise the vehicle and have the assistant just rock the steering wheel back and forth slightly and look /feel for play at the tie rods that way. I know my steering rack boot tore about 30k miles ago and i just started noticeing symptoms of a bad inner tie rod.....so i just got done replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends and the steering rack boots.....so my opinion would be that if nothing has any excessive play than i would just go ahead and throw the boots on.....than again the car does have alot of miles.......it might be worth it to do it all at once......good luck!

thanks a bunch WA that is much simpler than i previously thought......

thank you very much WA.....thats the kind of info. i was origionally set out for....still a broke school kid so when i start to tackle this project ill most likely make a post.....

thanks for your help and knowledge scrapdaddytatum.....just trying to figure out how to do this the right way before i get involved.......

ok but the question still remains as to how to get the fluid back into the tailshaft houseing after you replace the visc. coupler? and how to identify which exactly is the tailshaft houseing?

i have a 5spd........so are you saying that the clutches are indeed bathed in gear oil.....i did do a trans fluid exchange about 7000 miles ago........what do you know about the Visc. Couplers in the 5 Speeds?.......thanks in advance....

Hey WA....i was just looking over this post again and i saw were you said the viscous coupler was a sealed unit.....isnt the coupler surrounded by a think fluid?......if i were to replace the coupler how would i get the fluid back in there?....also you are refering to removing the tailshaft houseing NOT the transfer case houseing?....how do you tell which is which?....is one behind the other?......you seem like one of the right people to ask these questions too....you do answer the majority of my threads with knowledge.... again thanks for your help.

as a subaru tech im sure he did both of these.....but it doesnt hurt to double check..........make sure all lines, especially vacuum lines are hooked up and properly.....if you have a vacuum gauge i would run a quick vacuum test and see what youve got...did he set the valve clearances to spec?

if you can, get it in the air and check for any leaks if none are visable i would bleed the brakes and see how it feels........by the way how does the brake fluid look?

dear lord whats the top speed like 50.....

ill triple that....im just starting to run into that kind of problem with my 96' AWD legacy.....i hear its not to hard to fix....

as far as i know i still have the origional wheel bearings.... i have 187,000 on my 96 legacy and i havent had to do them yet....

if you have any gearwrenches they worked out excellant for me.....

i have a 96 legacy and the only time my drivers side front window seals properly is when i close the door.....ex: if i were to put the window down while driving than put it back up you can def. hear the air and a small bit of seepage coming through ( i think its because our doors dont have a frame around the window)....i have a couple of buddies with subarus and they all have the same problem......i also have the window rattle when i close the door with the window partially down......it doesnt really seem to bother me at all but my guess is something is loose.........just my experience.....

look up this kind of question on endwrench.com.....they may have something....or i believe online....ALLDATA has a reference and spec section you can use for free.....

what model? engine size? year?

i just read those endwrench articles the other day......very easy to understand....prob. just as easy to mess up....

...the easiest way i found to get to those relays is to remove the screws which hold the fuse block and the whole thing is one piece your can just slide it down and it comes out....its a b&*%$ trying to identify them correctly with the fuse box still up there....

yeah just saw that ej26?......

i personally found some q-tips with brakekleen on them work excellant...i also had a ton of sticky stuff in my heater control buttons.or even if you have like a long pick and wrap like a shop towel around it. just my experience.......

I just did the Valve Cover Gaskets on my 96 yesterday.....it is an ej22 but it wasnt nearly as hard as poeple have made it sound....i did take out the battery though.......good luck!

boost controller? just a thought....

just to jump on board here.....I had no idea that block heaters were that easy to install.....def. no need for one here in PA...but wow i always thought they were pretty complicated....

Welcome!.....I also just joined a few months ago........there are sooo many smart people on here its a huge library of information...