Numbchux

This was an OBD I EJ22, right? Cats won't be effected at all. Just put one in each side, done. Put the 02 sensor in one side or the other, and it'll run pretty well. it'll only read the A/F from 2 cylinders, so you'll have to assume the other 2 are running close enough. "Run right"? depends on your definition. I have heard (and it makes sense in theory) that a boxer really needs the scavenging of having both sides connected to run at it's best. Since both cylinders on one bank fire, and then the other bank. By splitting them up into 2 separate systems, the temperature fluctuates too much, and the velocity of the exhaust gases drops. Here's an idea I was planning on running on my wagon. Keep the measurements from the header flanges to the crossover exactly the same as the borla header, and then open it immediately back up to 2 pipes and continue on to 2 decent mufflers.

The Poopenvagon always did, and still does, have stock subaru lug nuts with 15" pug steelies. It's probably been 8 years or so since that car was built, and the last 5 it's been used only for bashing around the farm. If it hasn't failed on that car, I'd consider it safe

Wow...I didn't catch this thread before. Cool build!! Not exactly. Most of the world (Australia included) rates their octane based on the Research number alone (RON). Here in the US, we use the R+M/2 (Average of Research and Motor octane, also known as the AKI), which is lower. AKI tends to be 4 or 5 points lower than RON. Meaning 93 AKI would be the same as 98 RON. And 91 would probably be just fine for non-race days. I would highly recommend getting a good knock monitoring system (knock-link being my preference). and experiment a little. You'll find different brands of fuel effect how much knock you're getting (in this area, Shell tends to have the most stable fuel).

yep. that plate/bracket thing get tossed in the junk heap. slide a chunk of rubber on there to isolate it, and slap a few zipties on there however fits best, and call it a day It's not perfect or exact, but it works great. Just make sure you don't have any metal-on-metal. Cause the vibrations and such WILL wear through the side of the pump.

the front 02 is pretty important. the OBD II ECUs are pretty smart, and will make adjustments to the fuel trims based on that 02 sensor. The rear one is just to check the efficiency for the catalytic converter. it'll throw a code if it's not hooked up (or, if you don't have a cat), but it won't effect the way it runs. the 02 sensor bung is mounted in the cat-pipe, right after the manifold, on OBD II setups.

Everytime I've replaced one, it's gone back in with zip-ties. I bought a chunk of 3" (I think...) radiator hose a couple years ago. happens to perfectly slip over the outside of the fuel pump. helps prevent damage to the outer case if it's up against something. I don't think there's really a good way to do it. given it's location, and the small hardware it uses, it'll be pretty prone to failure. The bracket even came out pretty easy in my loyale, but the non-OEM replacement pump was too big for the brackets, and still ended up held in with zipties.

A week or so ago, a box showed up at my house. it says "93 EJ to EA" on it, so I'm assuming it's probably someone from USMB. I've been searching through emails and pms here and on many other sites, and I can't seem to find one that matches the name on the box. I get SOOOOOO many emails asking for information that sound like they're going to actually send me a harness. Most of them don't.... Anyway, whoever you are, you got my home address, so you've gotten in touch with me somehow, please contact me again with what's going on here. I've got 2 major rallies in the next month, as well as other projects, so this is a terrible time for another one to show up un-announced.

depends on the design. every one I've installed we left the crossmember against the body. brake lines for rear drums are a bit different. you'll have to get a bit creative. IIRC the thread size for where the line attaches to the cylinder is smaller than on a caliper. so you might have to find something else there. or just have a braided line made to replace the short line between the body and trailing arm.

No, the search function is not perfect. But seriously, there's a thread in the USRM that was posted (actually, transferred to the new site, it's much older than that) 3 YEARS before you registered here, titled "Rear Disc Conversion on EA81 & EA82s". So don't try to tell me that my bitterness isn't justified. I'm not kidding that this is one of the most commonly done and documented upgrades on an EA series subaru. Don't believe me? Here's the search results for "disc swap" in thread titles only: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1174784 And the cherry on top. Don't worry, anyone who chooses to continue to use that phrase or word (in that or similar context) deserves zero respect. ESPECIALLY from someone who's arguing. There are very few sentences so apocalyptically offensive. I don't mind the occasional "that's retarded", "gay", or even "rice" comment. As in most contexts, those words have developed a separate meaning that really isn't offensive. But by specifically naming the special olympics, in a reference to people who should know better but choose not to act better, is INSANELY insulting to the handicapped people (and CHILDREN. Specifically the young down syndrome boy who has been photoshopped to look like he wet his pants in the picture you reference) who participate in the special olympics. My cousin has down syndrome, and she is one of the most wonderful, kind, and loving people I've ever met. Our society would be much better off with more people like her, and less people like you.

nobody makes them specifically for Ea82s Fronts are for sure interchangeable with EJ stuff. IIRC rears can be as well, just have to grab a banjo bolt from an EJ, and they'll be waaaayyyy too long. Or, grab a spare rubber one for the front and rear, and you should be able to find a local hydraulics place that can crimp the right connections onto a chunk of braided line.

have a look at the video again.....he's got a slightly different configuration up there

not according to every listing I've seen. the '88XT FSM definitely shows the shorter gears. larger tires will bring the rpms down, that's how I combated the issue in my wagon. The 4.111 gearset that I had in my XT6 was muuuuuch better. had zero desire to have low range back. axles don't really break at stock height without a lot of extra power. If you don't do any maintenance and drive it for tens of thousands of miles with a destroyed boot and completely dry joint, it'll click and bind. But I've never seen one actually leave someone stranded.

^ the shock absorbers have zero influence on ride height in the rear of an EA81. So yea, suspension geometry has to be designed with axle longevity in mind, but once everything is set at the ride height you need, take some measurements of the shortest and longest (full stuff and full droop) shock you need, and then get 'em. Here's the Rough country shocks we used on my buddy's brat next to the stockers: a few minutes on the grinder, some lube, and a bench vise, and we got that upper mount swapped over from the old to the new. installed:

2" would probably be pretty good, just from an eyeball. Any idea how much of a difference in ride height you have compared to stock? The rear axles can safely take about 3" of extra height. On my first trip out with my old wagon, I had 5" extensions on the struts, and 1" blocks on the diff. I broke 2 axles in as many days (really....only half days before I wound up driving back to camp in FWD to replace an axle). Also, you may consider seeing if you can get your hands on a pair of rear axles from an '85-'86 Ea82. they have DOJ joints on both ends of the axles, instead of one DOJ and one CVJ, which means they can telescope from both ends and get a bit longer. While a DOJ can't take as much angle, it seems the biggest problem with a lifted EA82 breaking rear axles is the one DOJ get's hyperextended.

Wow! There's a screen name that I haven't seen around in awhile. Good to see you back in it, and what an excellent car for it.

There's this awesome thing on almost every internet discussion forum ever, called a search function. Here at the USMB, we also have a thing called the USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual), in which users have submitted many many many writeups on maintaining and upgrading your subaru over the years. an EA82->EA82 rear disc swap is one of the most commonly done, discussed, and documented mods done on old-gen subarus. with a tiny little bit of work, you'll find a TON of documentation and information on the swap.

bellhousing depth is less on the EJ engine than the EA82. So the thickness of the adapter plate is necessary to keep the flywheel the same distance from the input shaft, and therefore the starter as well. so yes, it'll work just fine.

also false. The EA82t has a .871 5th gear, compared to the EA82/EJ .780 5th. So final drives in 5th are as follows. EA82t: 3.227, EA82: 3.042, 4.111 EJ: 3.206. Despite having the tallest axle ratio of any of those options, the EA82t 5th gear makes it the worst option (shortest gear=highest rpm) for freeway use. And, since they all use a 3.545 first gear, that means with the 3.7 axle ratio, the EA82t also has the worst option at low speed. Words can't describe how horrendously disappointed I was when I first drove the FrankenWagon with the EJ22 and RX trans combo. Crappy gearing, and lots of front tire spin on the AutoX course from the open center diff. I was not aware, however, of the difference between a FWD and 4WD EA81 trans tunnels. That sucks....

not really. you'd still have the goofy EA82t gearing, and an open center diff! You'd have the better clutch, but with an EJ22, an XT6 clutch would be just fine.

for the amount of fabrication that would be required to stuff a 6-speed into an EA81 trans tunnel. And we already know he's just using an EJ22. No, 6-speed would just be a giant waste of money.

No. The FT4WD center diff is terrible on the street (open=spinning front tire). and EA82t gearing sucks (tall first gear and short 5th....who came up with that idea!?). You'll be VERY disappointed if you go this route......ask me how I know only way to go, is an EJ box. Get a 4.111 5MT (most common in first-gen, '90-94 legacies), the VLSD center diff will give you the best handling and traction, 4.111 axle ratios will give you some nice torque at low speed, and the 1-5 gears are perfectly matched to the EJ22.

Ah, a good 2.5" taller than stock. So you've really got just under 3" of lift. That should be within the tolerances of the axles. But only just. Keep us in the loop. 2* is a big change for a DOJ, especially if you spend time on the freeway.

Ah, so that's measured from the ground, counting the added height of the larger tires? What size tires are they?

how did you measure the 4" difference? with only a 1" block, that would mean you gained 3" from the forester struts alone? That sounds like a lot....

the plugs at the necessary sensors are the same, so if you get your hands on the engine harness from an OBD II engine you should be able to swap that over and then it should all plug right in.