Numbchux

I think for timing marks as well

I forgot I had this video already uploaded to YouTube....this is WOT, and intentionally hard shifts. No pitch-stopper, and hadn't for a couple years at that point. I think the FT4WD helps....but it's still really solid.

for a legacy. you'd have to get the donor parts out of a canadian spec one for the trim and stuff to match. I've often wondered if the belts out of a '95-99 legacy would work. the trim probably wouldn't line up, but you could just drill a hole in the B-pillar trim, and from there, the rest of the system is pretty simple.

my Loyale never had a pitch stopper after the swap. it's been running for about 5 years. easily 50k miles now. zero problems. one of the motor mounts was torn when I put a fresher motor in it last year. But it had about 285k on it...so that doesn't surprise me. +1 for other problems.

^EA82s without A/C have the electric fan. he didn't say remove both of them. just the clutch fan. reason? convenience mostly. That thing is a PITA to work around. and if the clutch isn't working perfectly, some hp and mpg

AH! I forgot about that. Fair enough. Your other points are valid, but I'd still rather substitute it for Low range or a viscous center.

That would ENTIRELY depend on how you drive it. yea, I bet if you engaged 4WD, you COULD blow it up in a few minutes. But if you were smart....it would last quite some time. I have seen no reason to suspect that an EA82 transmission is any less strong than early EJ ones. A friend of mine put a modded EJ205 in front of a '94 Legacy transmission with over 200k hard miles. After more than a year (including many ice racing and RallyX events), the clutch disc failed, but the transmission was still usable (synchro's getting rough...). Also, I don't know who told you the D/R would be weaker, but I want whatever they're on as it's obviously pretty good. That said, I would highly recommend using a different transmission for 2 reasons. A: clutch. the best clutch you can get off the shelf for the EA82 transmission is an XT6 clutch. which will not hold up to anywhere near the torque put out by an EJ205. B: a single-range PT4WD is pretty much the worst combination for any use. true 4WD is only good for slow-speed offroading. Which would be much better with a low range and no turbo. Street use means you're FWD....which doesn't really need explanation. And low traction circuits, a locked center just induces understeer (certainly with EA82 suspension geometry!). Going to an EJ-series AWD transmission will give you much better clutch options, and much better handling in most uses.

So....for the first time since they left the donor truck. The engine and transmission are bolted together. AND, they're bolted to the truck! just enough room for both oil senders back there. also got the OEM transmission dip-stick in there. I really don't know why people say you have to move the tcase back for this project. There's so much room for it otherwise. Also, took a picture of the tcase crossmember. nice! getting the engine and trans bolted together was a pain. now that everything is tight, the oil pan is touching the front diff.....So. diff will come out and I'll round off that corner with a hammer.

transmission seized in my '88 XT6 in July. I decided to replace it, so this project came to a screeching halt. BUT, I took some time off of work the last couple weeks so I could get crap done. Both XT6s are ready to leave, and got the wheel spacers installed on my celica so I could run my subaru wheels and snow tires. So, bunch of work got done on the 4runner. Engine has been in and out a few times. Budbuilt transmission crossmember is installed. looks like everything will fit just fine with the tcase in the stock location. I've done some modifying and cutting for shift linkage and such. Still a lot to do yet. Also, I started getting the toyota gauge sensors (temp and oil pressure) mounted to the V6. temp was easy, there are 2 sensors, and the one for the gauge on the V6 had the exact same threads as the toyota sensor. the Oil pressure sender was a bit strange. the CPFI system uses an oil pressure switch to keep the fuel pump on as long as there's oil pressure. I'm not 100% sure why, but I opted not to mess with it. So I had to use some sort of T fitting to run both sensors. thank goodness both sensors use standard NPT thread pitches. So, less than $10 at Home Depot....and I'll have to do some measuring and such to see if this will create an issue with firewall clearance. Also, I have a Heavy Duty, fully enclosed canopy over it, so I should be able to continue working on it pretty easily into the winter. as long as I keep the snow off it. Still have to decide what to do with the fuel system. The CPFI 4.3 needs 60psi of fuel pressure to work properly. I got a pump that can do that, but I'm not sure what to do with the lines. The stock chevy system uses all crimped rubber lines and flare nuts. But my fuel pump just has a 5/16s barbed output on it.

NA and NB (and NC) are Miata body style codes. years, pictures, and other info in my thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78684 I ran NA for a few months. ....until the shock rod broke. The bushing in the upper mount is a crucial piece. And I know WJM had the same issue with a different combo running without that bushing.

fsm are by far the best diagrams you'll find

take a look on pirate4x4, you'll find it's not uncommon. The challenge, is keeping the compressor lubricated. I don't know a lot about it, but I think some compressor designs are better than others in that regard.

OBD I EJ22? just switch the cam and crank angle wires, add the wires for wastegate control and pressure sensor, reroute the temp sensor wiring (it's on the other side of the coolant bridge), and you're done. don't need a whole merge.

yep. Thanks for the clarification, I really didn't word that very well

yep, but they don't put 4.0s in JKs..... the "Just Empty Every Pocket" acronym is funny, but as far as wheeling rigs, about as far from the truth as possible. the aftermarket for jeeps is enormous, and competition is fierce.

Sure.... '92 Loyale wagon before after latest (actually, it will be re-5-lugged here before too long. it's current owner just contacted me) '88 GL '94 Legacy GT '88 XT6 before middle after (yesterday) '89 XT6 before middle after

the funny thing, is that's the softest, mildest, most street-friendly wrangler ever. And it's still better offroad than most subarus will ever be. personally, if I'm going to cave and get a jeep, it would be a TJ wrangler. shorter wheelbase, super cheap to modify, removable roof. not a big fan of the minivan motor they put in those JKs....

yep, '95 was OBD II as well for the 2.2s. But the wiring and ECUs are unique to that year. pretty hard to find diagrams, and replacement parts should you need them.

depending how you drive it, an OBD I EJ22 and PT4WD trans will probably yield 22-32 mpg. an OBD II ECU runs a bit more effeciently, so with that, you could probably hit almost 35mpg. I would recommend a slightly taller tire if/when you replace them. the torque band of the 2.2 works much better with slightly taller tires.

EA81s came with a version of the digi dash.....also junk. you're going to have a lot of trouble hitting your 35mpg goal with an AWD trans in there at all. especially an automatic one. But I bet a 5MT PT4WD one would get your there. although not that great on the "track", unless that's just a drag strip. Also, you will probably have fitment issues with a 4EAT in an EA81 tunnel.

I happened to have my '88 XT owners manual on the desk here. It recommends 75w/90 for all temperature ranges. I usually run Castrol HypoyC 80w/90 damage probably didn't occur. it has to be pretty much dry before anything bad happens.

Whew! silly me. Turns out you had all the answers to everything ever all along let us know how that goes for ya! boy, using front dust sheilds to make rear backing plates, and fabricating caliper brackets from scratch. Wow, why didn't anyone else think of these things!!! "rear park brake however on my rally wagon this would be well worth it" your words, my friend. But yea, I guess since you're an accomplished rally driver and WRC builder you would know better.

old thread bump, huh.... only issue you might run into. is the splines for the axles changed a few times. so depending on the combo, you might run into issues.

meh. a true rally build needs a hydraulic handbrake if you plan to use it to induce a slide. Even if 200SX calipers were common (240SX/silvia ones would work too), it doesn't solve much. you still need the subaru hubs, rotors, backing plates, caliper brackets and pads. seems to me if you were getting all that, you'd get the subaru calipers too.

I did a write-up on the 200SX swap a few years ago when I did it on my Loyale. Look for it in the brakes section of the USRM