Numbchux

we should sticky one of these threads (it might be in the FAQ...but apparently that's not good enough). yea. normal. they have a bunch of camber stock. there just isn't room in the strut tower to compensate for the extra control arm angle (pulls the bottom of the knuckle in). even if your lift blocks are installed correctly, your camber will get a bit worse than before. and it's going to look even worse when you get bigger tires on it.

'85-'86 RXs were sedans with PT4WD. otherwise very similar to the FT4WD version. the taller final drive, smaller low range reduction, really short 5th gear and 25 spline axles. they're pretty different. and wasn't asking about 2WD cars. the FWD Ea82 5MT internals are the same as EA82 FWD internals. there are many differences in mounting and shift linkage.

need more information. OBD II subaru covers 13 years, and many many different models/engines.

heh heh.......DOH. I knew I'd forget something. I left the steering column in the car, but in an EA, you definitely have to un-bolt it from the dash and drop it to the floor. that does remind me, though. make sure that the ignition lock isn't engaged when you un-plug everything (make sure it's in park, and key stays off). or you'll have a heck of a time getting your key out! good call. I assumed it was non-turbo, as the only turbos to come with a D/R were the RXs.

doing a clutch alone is FAAARRRR easier by pulling the motor. but only to avoid dropping the trans. since you have to drop the trans anyway....might as well leave the motor in it. the axles will definitely work. remove the torque converter by un-bolting the bolts that hold it to the flex plate through the access hole on the top of the motor (engine side). then drop the trans, and un-bolt the flex plate from the engine. remember to keep the flywheel bolts, as they're longer than the ones that go through the flex plate. aligning the clutch disc is an ENORMOUS pain from under the car (one of the reasons it's so much easier to pull the engine). a tip: forget the alignment tool, and aligning it at all. put the clutch together, and then just leave the pressure plate bolts finger tight (at most, I just thread them in a few rotations). now as you're installing the trans, the clutch disc can move around in there, and it makes it much simpler to get everything aligned. Then you can tighten them one at a time through the starter hole just like the flex plate bolts. just make sure to get to each one at least twice, to make sure they're all good and tight before you install the starter. Also, put a jack and chunk of wood under the oil pan to tilt the engine back (don't forget to un-bolt the pitch stopper...or you'll probably lift the car by the pan..... ). This will also help drastically in getting the 2 aligned properly. remember, the driveshaft is a different length from Auto to manual, so you'll need the front half (at least) of the driveshaft from the donor car. and, your rear diff is likely a 3.7, and the one in the D/R is a 3.9. so you'll have to swap that out too. I think that's it...

nevermind. sorry. just was working on my EJ-swapped loyale a few days ago. I forgot the carbed ones are the other way around. the supply line is down on the frame rail.....you were on the right track. I put a '92 2.2 in an '86 EA82 carbed GL wagon last summer. zero mods. plugged in the fuel lines. I hooked the GL supply line to the impreza filter, and the return and vent lines are different sizes than each other.....but the same as the EA82. only change was fuel-injection clamps on all the supply lines, and the under-hood return lines.

sounds like you've got your return and supply lines backwards. the supply line is up by the strut tower, and the return line is down on the frame rail. supply line has the fuel filter in-line. sizes are all the same, if connected correctly.

the struts have to come pretty far out of the tower in order to leave enough room to get the block up there. the control arm will prevent that much travel, so something else has to be removed. I've been trying to remember how I did my '88....it was so many years ago. but I know on the EA81s we've done, we did the crossmember at the same time as well, so the entire front suspension was detached from the body. which made it a bit simpler

yep, the leading rod will help drop the whole suspension down a bunch. but I'd definitely just pop the ball joint out of the knuckle (easier, and less chance of destroying the ball joint boot than pulling it out of the control arm). then you'll have tons of space to work with.

even the 2.2 SOHC heads are good up to about 300hp (turbo, of course). I don't think there's much to be gained N/A for the switch. Also, keep in mind that the quench volume of a 2.5 head is larger than a 2.2 head. so using a 2.5 head on a 2.2 block will lower your compression ratio. definitely means a drop in power N/A. I love to see subie motors in VWs! I've done the wiring for more than a few of them, and if things go well will be very involved in another one this winter. But you really need to narrow your desires in order for anyone to help. Almost every combination you can dream of has been done and documented. read up, research parts, decide on a budget, a hp goal. you know the saying, "fast, cheap, reliable. pick 2", so find where your priorities lie in that triangle. THEN we might be able to point you in the right direction. generally, though. all EJ heads are pretty much interchangeable. you will run into a few issues if you try to put 1.8 heads on a 2.5 and vice versa, as the bore diameter is so drastically different....but even then, the bolts will line up. as a rule of thumb, intake manifold has to match the heads (not 100% true...but frequently). So when you talk about swapping heads onto your motor, you're really talking more about swapping your shortblock into another motor. at which point.....why not just start with a different motor? fuel injectors are dependent on the rails, which are dependent on the intake manifold. so if these need upgrading, consider those options as you're considering the rest of the build. head gaskets, again, are all pretty similar. there are a couple different thicknesses (effect compression/interference). some have different cooling holes in them, and different materials. but....very similar. probably only about 4 or 5 different OEM designs. management. depending on your power desires....you may want an engine management system. the stock ECU is surprisingly intelligent, but it has it's limits. specifically when it comes time to adjust your ignition timing. IMHO. if you already have an entire 2.2 donor car. and want more power than the 2.2 offers, turbo it. don't mess with the heads and stuff. just throw ~6psi of boost at it, and be done with it. the 2.2 is the most reliable subaru motor ever, why mess with it? or, if you're going to piece together a swap. start over. your N/A 2.2 parts car will have little use.

the upper support was completely cut out of an '88 wagon I had a few years ago. to this day, I don't know why....but everything between the headlights was gone. didn't notice any difference. my buddy still has that car, wheels the crap out of it and it's rusting to pieces, and it's shown no evidence that that is a weak link.

pedal box clutch stuff (cable, or master cylinder, etc.) driveshaft is a different length rear diff flywheel starter transmission interior bits it's not too bad. I've done it on GC imprezas a couple times. one time we pieced it together. definitely do-able.

the EA82 radiator is plenty capable of cooling an EJ22. definitely not the weak link in the EA82 cooling system. get a loyale radiator. the lower outlet is already pointed straight out, instead of up at an angle like the GL ones. then cut a few inches off the 1 1/4" EA82 hoses, slip on the EA82 radiator outlets (now the 1 1/2" EJ hoses will fit perfectly on top of that). Then get stock radiator hoses for a BG ('96-'99) Legacy Outback. the outback has blocks on the engine crossmember, so the engine sits lower in relation to the radiator by a bit. so the hoses are formed very nicely. trim a few inches off both ends of the top hose, and they will both work perfectly. ta-da. all stock parts. I ran the stock, high-mileage, corroded, partially clogged Loyale radiator with my EJ22 for about a year. the EJ never overheated (as long as the fan came on...but that's a separate issue), even with just one fan.

let's see. I'll probably forget something, but I'll get the list started. 17mm for the front crossmember. 14mm for the rear crossmember, and bellhousing/starter bolts/nuts 12mm for the linkage (you'll want a few versions, box wrench, socket, maybe ratchet wrench). plyers/flathead for the clutch cable clip 12mm and 10mm wrenches for the clutch cable nuts 12mm box wrench for driveshaft bolts 12 or 14mm for driveshaft carrier bearing bolts Philips screwdriver for interior trim and shifter boot (you may want to bring a knife. the screws holding the rubber boot to the body are frequently rusted...) that's all I can think of. so bare minimum sockets: 12, 14, 17mm (obviously a ratchet. a couple extensions would be nice too) wrenches: 10, 12 plyers, and a few screwdrivers.

yep, I should have been more specific. I was saying only the '90 would have been actually called a loyale.

air intake is the same. the scoop is purely for looks. but yea, you could grab a hood from a '97-'99 legacy GT or Outback. it would have a scoop and fit right on your '95.

wow. must have been fairly low mileage transfer clutches. I moved my XT6 around a bit with a broken axle, but it didn't like it at all.....once you get moving a little bit, and both speed sensors match, then it tries to release the clutches, at which point, you slow down again, then they lock again...etc. etc. put it this way. Years ago when the guys did the Rubicon. Mudrat had a 4EAT in his hatch in front of a divorced tcase. he killed power to the dutyC, and IIRC had brand-new transfer clutches. He said, that even with the substantially lower gearing (something like double the stock EA82 D/R crawl ratio), it would not have driven up a curb. he had to pull it apart and mechanically lock it.

^yep. since they're all named by their trim level, an '86 "GL" could be an EA81 or EA82. although a Brat would probably be listed as a "Brat GL". so yea, only way to decipher them is by body style. I bet, as GD said, if you look them up for an '84, they'd be the same part number for all body styles.

yea, it is splitting hairs a bit. it is annoying, but I want to make sure the information is correct as possible. that is a good way to think of it. yea, as the transfer clutches grab, it does use up more of the available power, and therefore making less go to the front. but it is still a 100% mechanical connection from the output shaft to the front pinion shaft. so the front drive speed is still directly proportional to engine speed. you literally could remove the rear driveline from a car with a 4EAT and still drive it. without putting the FWD fuse in, or any other modifications. but not the other way around, and not in a 5MT (the EA FT4WD centers do have the full-lock option, so it's not hard to make them FWD....but it's not the same setting you'd use on pavement).

the duty cycle only varies the power to the rear. the front still gets 100% power, regardless of what the rear is doing. You're not wrong, just not exactly right . I was just clarifying. saying that it's variable up to 60/40 isn't really true, as it implies that the front gets less power as the rear gets more. which isn't the case. Glad to hear it. I've heard so many descriptions, and "torque splits" and stuff on the internet that is just wrong. I'm glad to hear someone else who I know has torn apart at least as many transmissions as I have agrees

where did you read that? it's a common misconception. but the front gets full power, all the time, regardless of what the rear is doing. it's really like 100/10, and then as the TCU puts more pressure on the transfer clutch, it varies up to about 100/80 (only reason it isn't 100/100, is the solenoid/clutch will still slip unless mechanically modified, they will not hold all the power). if your transfer clutch burns out entirely, you loose the rear drive, but you can still drive around fine. it's FWD, and you might not even notice it until it snows and you're stuck and I am talking about the 4EAT. 3ATs are not full-time. so they're 100/0, push the button and they're 100/80. torque splits really can't be boiled down to just a number ratio. as so many AWD systems have so many variables to how they react. with a mechanical center diff, like in a subaru 5MT AWD or FT4WD system, it really needs to be out of 200, as if one end is stopped, the other spins twice as fast. so a FT4WD system, unlocked, is 100/100, unless one end sees more resistance, and then it changes, all the way to 200/0, with almost no restriction. a VLSD center (EJ AWD 5MT) changes the amount of resistance depending on how much slip has already occurred. so 100/100, one end loose traction, and it goes to 150/50, then the VLSD heats up, and transfers power to the side with more traction, and it goes back towards 100/100.

yea, exhaust flange location and dimensions are the same for all dual-port EJ engines. some of the newer cars use a different oil pan to clear the headers, so you might run into that. but the oil pan is interchangeable too.....so it might be worth swapping to an STi pan (make sure you use a reinforced pickup though!! the stock STi ones are prone to cracking). but since you don't really need it to be smashed under the engine (no turbo), I'd look for something for a 2.5 N/A (like an RS). there are a few options, Borla makes a header that makes for a great sound, and shifts your powerband down lower a bit (better low end torque, but at a sacrifice in scavenging so not quite as much peak hp). There are a couple companies that make equal-length headers for them, with the opposite effect: less rumble, little less low-end torque, more peak hp.

yep, stock pump location in both my swaps. no pitch stopper in either. just pulled the motor out of my wagon. 290k total miles, 60k in the loyale. didn't even have [completely] torn motor mounts. were I to do it again. I would definitely use the SJR adapter plate with the little tabs for the pitch stopper. but if it's not fairly convenient....it's not entirely necessary.

could be. higher-octane fuel burns slower. although, I don't remember which octane tends to be higher. Our fuel is rated as an average of the 2, so your octane rating isn't necessarily comparable to ours.

not really....no. autos are 100% to the front wheels. all the time. period. then they direct power to the back as-needed.