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Numbchux

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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. ooooo....that's who's been sending me emails about this..... anyway, like I asked in the emails. is the ECU coming on at all? easiest way to tell this is whether the fuel pump primes or not.
  2. yea, both pairs of diagnostic connectors are there. I do connect them (to keep track of them) while working on the harness, I don't know if I left them that way. still sounds like a vacuum leak....sounds EXACTLY like what happened with the 96 EJ22 in the 86 wagon last summer when I didn't have the IAC connected to the intake tube.
  3. "lo-pro rally tires" you're new to the sport aren't you. I know many guys DOWNGRADING brakes so they can run 14s and 15s on their WRXs and STis for better tire selection.
  4. yep. I know all EJ ones use ATF. and yea, I've seen a few pumps fail when using standard PS fluid. the seals fail more quickly, an air bubble gets in there, the fluid starts to cavitate, and before long, the pump is shot. slightly off-topic. but an EA82 pump and an EJ22 pump are almost identical, except the mounting bolt size, and case material (EA82s are steel, EJs are aluminum).
  5. vacuum leak? have everything hooked up? IAC, PCV lines, etc. that's my next instinct, with it thinking that it's cranking all the time, it'll either stay in "choke" mode (extra fuel) or go into limp mode. either way, not depending on the MAF signal almost at all. I don't think you created a new problem....just took the band-aid off the old one. might even help to just clean the MAF.
  6. hard to say, as there are a number of other summer events that are still up in the air, and it's a long drive, but I had a great time when we were down there a few years ago. I'd love to come again. But then again, I would like to get the 4runner down for Castana....so it might be one or the other. we'll see.
  7. got your pm....I'd call but since I'm mostly nocturnal.....yea, I'll call tomorrow though. in the mean time. have you checked to see if the rest of the harness is staying on while cranking? the "switched 12v" wire needs to be to a source that stays on while cranking. although it probably wouldn't fire at all if that were the case.....but hard to diagnose over the internet. also, what's the history on the engine? was it known to be running? because this also sounds a bit like a failed/failing Crank Angle Sensor.
  8. CEL codes? if you've gotten that far, it'll probably tell you what's up from there.
  9. that skid plate is DEFINITELY not attached to the engine crossmember. which makes sense since he's working on the exhaust.
  10. there's an oil light on the EA82 dash on the left side right under the gauge cluster (the little bar where the check engine light and whatnot are). as the DLs didn't have a gauge. I used this on the '86 I did last summer.
  11. '00+ legacies use a multilink rear suspension, instead of the modified macpherson. '97 legacy springs are about 5.25" in diameter, '00+ are about 3" you might be able to use them anyway, but they won't sit in the spring perches correctly.
  12. Phizinza....I'm LOVING the rock light setup. never seen 'em on a subie. MysteriousXTC....awesome bumper. seriously impressive fab work there! FYI, the corner lights on the blue wagon were re-wired. the orange, side-facing ones as parking lights, and the white, front-facing ones as turn signals. which is why they're off.
  13. I've been running a Beck/Arnley (brand, not remanufactured, good stuff!) kit for an XT6 that I got from RockAuto.com. I've put about 25k on it (with an EJ22 swap), I just had to loosen the cable a bit, as it has worn, but it's still got lots of life left in it. holds up great to stock EJ22 power, but the pressure plate is not overkill, so the clutch pedal is still very comfortable. I'm building up an EJ22 this winter for more power. shooting for ~150awhp, maybe a bit more. I don't think this clutch will hold up to that, so it'll be coming out.
  14. yea, I don't know the physics behind why it works. but it does. the guys that work at frozen rotors (here in MN....active in the MNSubaru club) go as far as treating they're razor blades, which then last a ridiculously long time.
  15. if you're using a trans with 23 splines....no hybrid necessary. just use the EA81 axles as-is.
  16. wow, this thread has wondered. in theory, a drum setup SHOULD have as much power as discs. but do the swap, and you'll change your tune. also, a rear disc swap would help prevent the fronts from warping because they're not working as hard, and therefore won't build up as much heat. drilled rotors = cracked rotors slotted doesn't help much with heat...helps clean the pads, give more "bit" etc. only thing that you can do to a rotor to prevent warping is cryo treat it. frozenrotors.com offers cryo'd rotors for an EA82 (only listed for an XT, but they're the same). standard for about $90 each, and slotted for 140. I just ordered a full set of frozen rotors for my wagon. IMHO, these are the best rotors money can buy without changing size or material.
  17. rear seat and y-pipe definitely. the pipe before the muffler might be routed differently though, as the rear suspension is quite a bit simpler.
  18. agreed. many cars with a manual had a 3.90, so those rear diffs are quite common. if you don't swap them, your transfer clutches will burn out in very short order, and then you'll only have FWD.
  19. yep, it'll need an 02 sensor. that's a pretty crucial part (will run without....but your mileage/performance will suffer). so, of course, plug is left in the harness. it's ready to ship out.....pm me your addy.
  20. other "half" is stripped now too. pile of excess now:
  21. the first few were good fun. they're getting a bit tedious these days (I've got no less than 8 subaru bulkhead harnesses in my house right now )
  22. front camber is not adjustable. so, in theory......the only way for camber to be different on one side than the other.....is if something is bent.
  23. lots of harness progress today. got the larger "half" off it completely stripped down. stuff I'd cut out as of this afternoon: tonight: harness this afternoon: tonight:
  24. just use real compressors.....they're like $20 to buy, and at most auto parts shops, free to rent.
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