Numbchux

yea, but I know of a couple people who blew a hole in the top of the block.....I thought because of broken rods.... I'd hate to see that happen to a 12k mile motor

um....read the 2 posts above your own. here are some pics that someone posted on MNSubaru a while ago... EJ20G (ver 1-2: closed) EJ20k (ver 3-4: open) ej205/207 (ver 6, 7) dead link...anyone have a pic? EJ20 (USDM WRX) also dead... EJ257 (USDM STi), GREAT example of semi-closed deck. the EJ20/205/207 ones are much like this EJ25 (RS) EJ22t (closed) some other interesting things I found while digging up those pics: all stock subaru pistons are made of the same material, and same process (some argument as to whether they are hypereutectic, or just thermalflow), just different compression ratio. the phase I EJ22E is 9:1, whereas the EJ22t is 8:1. if you're shooting for less than 10 psi of boost, the higher compression will be fine (and will yield faster spool). if you're running about 10, you can drop the CR ever so slightly by using the 22t Head gaskets (about 8.8:1), which are an entire mm thicker (or a bit more by using 22t pistons and 22e gaskets, about 8.2:1). of course, if you're only running 10 psi or so through it....there's no reason to go closed deck. only really need that if you're going up into the 25 psi range. if you want to put a little more money into it, wiseco makes an 8.5:1 CR piston for the 22t, but that requires an overbore.

ALOT, School's canceled today for the first time in 3 years....and I've been driving around town looking for a hill that I can't climb.....lowered loyale with rear LSD and cooper studless weathermaster snow tires. there was a snowbank from the plow that was WELL over the hood at the end of my alley from the plow...no problem, and the alley I was driving on had a good 8" of fresh snow on it. just be careful to keep your radiator clear....I've had to stop a few times and use my ice scraper to clear the snow from the front of my radiator and fan (mounted on the front of the rad).

wow. I gotta admit, I'm impressed. and those are some impressive dyno numbers, especially if you were running a crappy tune!! now, get some beefy rods made for it....and see what it'll really do

well, I'm not the one who did this project, that would be reddevil on nasioc. but I'm using what he found out in his many builds to plan out my own. I intend to replicate his setup almost exactly..... my instant messenger handles are in my profile here....you're more than welcome to catch me online sometime and we'll talk. and yea, as long as your motor is good, no need to buy crank and rods. just re-use yours. that's a decent price on a tranny....no steal, but not a ripoff either. and personally, I'd rather have the taller axle ratio, of course, I do a lot of freeway driving.... get the crossmember. the heads aren't anything special...slight improvement over what you've got....but not by much.

the crank and rods are the same for ej22e and ej22ts. so no...not a good deal, you've already got most of those parts. if you've got the engine apart, get eagle rods. I thought a tleg tranny was still cable clutch? you can pretty easily convert a 5-speed one way or the other though. many autos are 4.111 (my buddies '96 4EAT imp is) AND, IIRC, the only difference between the trannies is the taller axle ratio. the open deck block is fine if you're shooting for less than about 300 awhp. the main disadvantages are the obvious, high boost, blow out the cylinder wall, but more importantly, a combination of boost, high rpm, and imperfect balancing, the cylinder can actually vibrate back and forth inside the block, and contribute to premature head gasket failure. that said, I'm only shooting for about 150 awhp on my initial build, so I'll be using a completely stock EJ22e block, a piggyback ecu, and about 7 psi of intercooled boost (and a few other supporting mods...but you get the idea). long term, 22t pistons (dime a dozen....tons of guys using a 22t block and aftermarket pistons for huge build-ups), eagle rods, wrx heads/intake, 10-12psi, and same ecu and wiring harness.

yep, I've tried taking clips just for the exhaust note, and none of them do the sound justice like that clip does. it does sound a lot like it would without a muffler, but deeper, and quieter. I love the Thrush glasspack sound on the EA82, if I still had one, I'd be running that combo. I liked it so much, I'm thinking about doing the same on my EJ22.....but it sounds pretty sweet unmuffled...

I was going to say the same thing... nice project, you posted a pic or 2 of that intake manifold before....and I love at at least as much now as I did then. nice work!!

holy crap!! central MN?! Where? join http://www.MNSubaru.com there are a ton of people on there with parts, and knowhow for this kind of build (engine wise), that could come help in person. as far as the lift is concerned, I've got a couple buddies (one with a brat) who are piecing their lifts together. we could get you into a nice solid setup for pretty cheap. we should talk in person....and I'll get you set up right. I'm sending you a private message now...

^^I beg to differ. the open deck block is still good up to 300awhp... calazo, you mention 'have' it turbocharged....as in, pay someone to do the work? it also depends how much boost you put into it. I've got a buddy running 10psi after the intercooler into his stock EJ22E. the motor already had well over 200k miles on it, and he's put about 10k on it since the turbo, and still gets 160psi compression on all 4. Some engine management is a good idea, if you're willing to do some tuning yourself, get a Rallitek Perfect Power 6 to add some fuel to the system. or you could go full stand alone...there are dozens of options along that route. whatever you do, if you want BIG power, you're going to need to lower the compression (pistons), and improve the heads (WRX DOHC ones are a good option), but if you go to different heads, you'll probably have to do some wiring work. if you want huge power, your best bet is to get a closed deck 2.2t from a legacy turbo. your options are endless...so it completely depends on what you want, and how much work you're willing to do.

http://media.putfile.com/PICT0667 I loved it with the Thrush glasspack. it was kinda loud, but easily under the 99dB sound requirement for the offroad park. and had a nice rumble. I just cut the stock muffler off, and clamped the glasspack on in it's place....

I've got a video clip somewhere of my blue EA82 wagon that you can hear the exhaust pretty well. I just replaced the stock muffler with a Thrush Glasspack. it sounded very nice, and cost less than $50...

the rears are easy once you source an XT6. totally bolt-on mod.

rear hubs, rotors, and backing plates from an XT6 (rear calipers too if you're not already rear disc....) you'll need to enlarge the front balljoint hole in the control arms, or find a way to put XT6 control arms on an EA81. Front brakes, hubs, steering knuckles, struts springs axles from an XT6 or EJ car (all from the same). a way to mate the axles to your trans (EA81 trannies have 23 spline stubs, virtually all 5-lug options have 25). if XT6, then you might be able to put your 23-spline DOJ cups on the end of the axles... if EJ, get front axles for a '93-7/'94 FWD MT impreza. they have 23 splines. and, you'll need to do something about strut tops. both XT6 and EJs have 3 bolts on the strut tops, and your EA81 has only 2. you may be able to use the EA81 strut tops on the other struts...but I just don't know. you may end up having to re-enforce the strut towers and drilling 3 holes in them.

well, EJ exhausts go UNDER the rear axles and suspension arms. EA exhausts go OVER.....so it won't fit like stock....but you might be able to make it work. WRX exhaust can be put on legacies.... I tried to put a full legacy exhaust on my loyale, and couldn't use the axle-back because it just won't fit.... I think it would be neat....but you've got your work cut out for ya

Very well said. unfortunately, that hasn't happened yet, so we still have to be careful. But that is the #1 purpose of the MNOHV.org group. and since it started this last summer, we've made some HUGE steps. btw...MNOHV.org was created by former Subaru owner and USMB regular MorganM. unfortunately, Minnesota has even taken steps to make private ORV park virtually impossible. I don't understand the details, but there used to be a place in southern MN that was privately owned but available to the public, and he's been shut down. although those of us in the North Shore Wheelers have a meeting this weekend, and one of the topics is getting the ball rolling on our own private wheeling spot....

there's not a good chance. there's almost no chance. the twin turbo's will NOT fit a left hand drive car without extreme modification. it would be much easier to just convert it to single turbo. and chances are pretty good that your '96 brighton has rear drums.

well, I've taken the engine and trans OUT that way twice on EA82s. it worked great. I don't know why you couldn't put them in that way too.

psssshhh. naysayers. Everybody's got an opinion and nobody's done it. Well, that's going to change. True dual with a crossover. starting with borla knockoff unequal length headers so the exhaust pulses get to the X at different times (rumble and torque). I've photoshopped a basic idea of what I'm going to do: with a resonator and a muffler of somesort on either side. This will allow better ground clearance than a single 2.5+" pipe (when you're as low as I already am....a half inch is the world), and will probably sound amazing. both pipes will exit right next to each other in the stock location....to add to the sleeper effect, and so I can tuck the mufflers up into the unibody. [/hijack] Phiz. looks like you're making good progress there. to answer your question about the diff locker solenoids. They do stay engaged. I found at the ice races (I didn't have a T yet, so it was either heat, or locker...) that under hard conditions, it would frequently unlock on me. the stock switch is just a DPST switch, power in the middle, and then out one side, and straight to one of the solenoids.

yep, but you're going in a straight line I assume...that really doesn't work the diffs very hard. I've felt a huge difference with my rear LSD as long as the center is locked. but with it unlocked and when cornering and accelerating hard (when you'd really work the LSD), I just spin one front wheel.

I've been thinking about getting a small dual gauge panel and mounting it in front of the existing temp and oil gauges. Something like this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2008946/p-2008946/N-111+10201+600010337/c-10101 nice work Turbone! I've also thought about cutting holes in the dash next to the clock....

I've been running the Y, and the midpipe for about 6 months now....great sound. of course, mine has about 240k miles on it, so I think the cats are more like resonators....

double clutching means you release the pedal while in neutral. when downshifting into first, and people say they double clutch, you're also blipping the throttle. but just blipping the throttle isn't enough, because if you don't engage the clutch first, it won't spin the synchros up to match the speed of the gear you're trying to shift into. I've heard, on a couple different occasions other than the fast and the furious, about double clutching when accelerating, but never any reason for it. and I must admit, I've tried it a couple times....and I know it slows me down.

yep, your best bet for a budget power build is a closed deck block. either jdm EJ20g/k or an early legacy ej22t. if you go the 22t route, your best bet is to find yourself a donor car. something that's all rusted out, or been hit in the rear, and do all the work yourself. but either way, keep your eyes on the other forums, nasioc, rs25, legacy central, i-club, etc.

this would be the stuff you want: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=39