Numbchux

Adding relays like that takes the load off the factory system. The existing relays will only be triggering the new relays, so no need to upgrade them. The diagram looks largely correct. Subarus typically use a switched ground system (I'm not sure about EA81s, but everything newer certainly does). Meaning the existing wires listed there will be grounded, not powered. Which means you'll need to reverse the polarity of the relay (pin 86 will need a power source, instead of ground). I'm doing essentially the same thing with my 4Runner right now (as part of a larger project). Mounting underhood relays, running shorter runs of larger gauge power wires to the relays. The voltage drop through ~35 year old factory connectors and relays is pretty severe under load.

I don't have any experience with them, but judging from the enormous scope of parts that they list, I doubt they actually stock anything, probably just drop ship from other sources. Which means I would not trust what they say they have in stock. I suspect they are one of these sources that just wants to get your information and then they can sell you something else, or tell you the parts are backordered indefinitely. Just my speculation...

As mentioned, the ECU has absolutely nothing to do with the lights. Start at the fuse box. Check all the fuses and fusible links. Look for corrosion.

EJ22G? Like a 22B engine? Some debate. Common wisdom for years is that DOHC EJs do not fit between EA81 frame rails. But in recent years (mostly on facebook), there have been several saying that they do *just* fit, or that it's only the timing belt cover that hits, which can be easily trimmed.

You will encounter things. Hoses and wiring in the engine bay will be effected. I don't remember exactly (Probably been 10 years since my last EA82 lift, and most were already modified to some extent). Engine and transmission will be lowered from the body by 2-3" so stuff happens, can't always predict it, you'll just have to be creative. SJR is @Scott in Bellingham, maybe he'll chime in. Or send him a message (here or elsewhere. He's pretty active on Facebook). Pitch stopper won't fit anymore. Can be modified. I left it off a couple cars and didn't notice any difference Just reroute it under the pitch stopper. Didn't have any trouble on any of mine.

Should be pretty similar. I've installed kits from both guys, and they both make good stuff. SJR has been around longer, and been a long time contributor to the community to help develop some of these modifications. I also really like that many of his components are cast aluminum.

Yea, the steering shaft should be the same. If it's different, I suspect what you've got is an EA81 rack.

There's a few places that could cause an issue. The EA82s had a connector in the steering column to the ignition switch that would melt and get a bad contact to the starter circuit. I drove my Frankenwagon for quite some time, occasionally having to push up on the plastics in the bottom of the steering column to get it to make contact. Eventually I bypassed the connector and never had an issue again.

I don't get the impression that a clean shell is difficult to find in your area, and one without a clean title is not going to stand out. Here, in the land of rusted out hulks, a clean shell would pull $1500. But I see cars with blown engines and otherwise average condition listed for $3-800. If it really just needs an engine, you're probably loosing more in resale than the cost of fixing, even if you're paying someone to do it.

I mounted Yakima 1A mounts on my EA82s (and XT6s) with the trim installed a couple times, had to pull the trim out a bit to get the rack mount behind it, and then the clamp went down over the top of it. I didn't love it, so I pulled the trim off on some of them (XT6s for sure).

Not for fuel injection hose. Stuff is not cheap. Subarus only have a few sections of rubber hose, maybe 18" a piece. Measure the section you're replacing. You can use low pressure fuel hose for the return line, but do not use anything other than fuel injection hose for the supply line.

future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama.

I hate to do this, but time to fire up the old search engines. Been documented many many many many many many many many many times. There are probably thousands of different methods and combinations. Hints: Your '87 GL-10 is an EA82 chassis. Motor mounts are the same for all EJ engines (as far as how they bolt to the engine crossmember). "Somebody" spent an enormous amount of their life compiling an EJ swap manual over 10 years ago, while it focuses on the simpler SOHC EJ22, a DOHC turbo version will be very similar. There have been STi versions of the WRX model for 26 years globally, and 16 years in the US. While the mechanical challenges of fitting it in your car are basically all the same (To date, they all use EJ series engines), there's a huge variation in these engines. If you want more specific answers, ask more specific questions. Presumeably your GL10 is already turbo, if not, you'll need a turbo engine crossmember or custom exhaust. Spend a couple dozen hours studying all the EJ-swapped EA82 cars, even the simple EJ18 and EJ22 ones (and of course, the turbo ones). Then spend another couple dozen hours studying turbo swaps into base model Imprezas and Legacies.

Well, the truth is, you won't find anything as simple and unkillable as an EA81 or early EJ22 made in the last 20 years. Cost, emissions and fuel efficiency have all come before longevity. The first gen EZ30 is probably the closest, but if it does go wrong, it's a lot harder to work on. But, compared to other offerings in that vintage, the EJ252/253 are pretty decent engines. The 08 will be a EJ253 (assuming it's not a turbo), which means variable valve timing. Probably an immobilizer ($200 key). And if the check engine light comes on, it disables the cruise.

My 2000 has 330k on it. Head gaskets fail ~80-100k miles, but they virtually always is just an oil leak. Check the oil and don't park over nice concrete, and keep driving it. I bought our 03 with 110k and leaking gasket, drove it to over 150k before fixing it and selling it. It's annoying, but won't leave you stranded.

Nope. I can't even think of any with an even number.

The wiki is a good start. The complete engine code is on the strut tower plate, if you're looking at a whole car. About the only easy piece with EJ engine codes, is that if the 5th digit is a letter, it's a phase I engine, if it's a number, it's phase II.

Here's the how to I did on it. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/post-5685977 And AutoZone part number

Must be an EJ transmission, too? Custom transmission crossmember, I assume? It's possible that the transmission mounts are too low, but I would think it would need to be considerable for this to happen. Are they the same motor mounts? Flywheel? Every EJ swap I've done personally used the EA82 transmission, and therefore flywheel, which is a smaller diameter than the EJ one. But plenty of people have used EJ flywheel and transmission, and I have not heard of anyone having this issue.

Doors do transfer. On the 1st and 2nd gens, the rear door glass was different between a sedan and wagon, I assume the same is true of the 3rd. I think the sunroof stuff is different. The only sunrooof-related part that I would consider a common failure part would be the cable that runs from the motor to the front glass, but I don't think that applies to the sedan, might even be Outback specific.

You really have tested the axles... Here's another options, '02-'04 Impreza Sedan axles (wagons are narrower, RS/TS or WRX doesn't matter). They're about an inch longer.

Yep, Outback grill is about 2" taller, and the bumper is cut lower to accomodate. Legacy grill can be used with an Outback bumper (will leave a gap, but function). I think both of his cars are Legacies, though, so shouldn't be a problem.

You're sort of on the right track. The male stubs on the '05 axles will pop right into the '01 transmission, after the stubs are removed from the '01. Unfortunately, that involves splitting the transmission as the stubs on a manual are held in with snap rings from the inside. You're sure the '01 axle won't work in the '05? Those chassis are VERY similar Here's the surtrack axle for an '01: And for an '05: 4" difference, but that's also counting the stub that protrudes into the transmission, which sounds like it would be really close.

Fuel pump assembly, especially if the cap isn't broken. That's about the only thing that's "prone" to failure. If it's a Limited, it'll have leather, which is very nice IMHO. OE Fog lights suck. They look neat, but not very functional. I sell any good ones off my cars, even if I'm keeping the car. I don't know how the GT ones mount, the Outback ones just bolt to the bottom of the bumper beam. So all I can say there is to watch for any extra bracketry behind the bumper cover. Yep, bumper will swap right over. The '02 may have smaller front brakes than your '03 (mid-year '02 change). Beyond that, normal partout stuff. Switches and lights are usually worth saving. If it's got a trailer hitch. I see a lot of deer crossing, so I would be saving any front bodywork.

Also there's a sticky in this section with new sources for the Endwrench articles. Or, google the document #.