Numbchux

Your shifter will either have D, 2, 1 or D, 3, 2 with a button for 1 hold. My '89 XT6 4EAT definitely has lockup. I don't believe the 4EAT was available before '87.5, as the transmission tunnel got bigger specifically for that. I think the 3AT in my old Loyale had lockup, but I was in highschool when it still had an auto. IF it doesn't have it, it would be very hard to retrofit, as it is controlled via a solenoid in the valve body and passages. You'd have to swap out for the EJ transmission, which requires some modification.

Yep, they are. EA81/MY use a shorter shaft, but all EA82/L are interchangeable, even though most have an outer CV.

The axle stub and DOJ cup are not 2 pieces, like they were on older cars. New axles come with male splines on them, just install your new axle.

No way, you'd have people breaking down your door if you listed that car for that little right now. Very hard to value something like that, as there's almost zero comparables. But here in MN, Subarus draw a premium. Rust free cars draw a premium. And right now, the used car market is on fire. All that means that thing has very good value. I'd bet a dealer would be asking close to $10k, and I wouldn't be that surprised if they could find someone to pay that (or nearly that). I'd probably start at something like $6k if I were selling it. Yes, rubber components will be badly degraded. Timing belt should be done immediately. But, obviously, there's a TON of life left in that car.

Wow, I didn't think anyone made them aftermarket, nor that they went to the trouble to duplicate the style that closely (I assumed the aftermarket companies would replace all EA82 rears with the same part). The important part is the compressed length, an EA82 shaft will bottom out on an EA81, as it's too long. But assuming that's identical to OEM, that should give you a pair of the cups you need. The wording is really screwy. MY and L-series is the Aussie wording for EA81 and EA82. GL and Leone were used for both body styles, and Loyale only for the end of EA82s... Your Brat looks gorgeous!

Well, the inner cups won't work on your WRX diff, anyway. But even if you just get one, it might get you just the extra you need.

Yep, should be right. The rear diff in these cars is sometimes a little off center, not sure exactly why, and it seems to be different on every car. When there were more guys running welded diffs on here, there's always an easy side to pull an axle, some cars could be done without even jacking the car up. EA81s use a narrower track, so you can't use the shaft, but using 4 EA82 cups on EA81 shafts would give quite a bit more extension travel. When I built my Loyale (5-lug, EJ22, lowered), I didn't have any correct roll pins handy, so I used some low grade bolts. Broke 3 on the LH side (actually had a LR axle fall out while driving...) before doing it correctly, never on the RH side. I have EA82 inner cups on my Brat shafts for a bit more travel. Took a picture last night (Boy does a flash highlight the rust....Minnesota car it's whole life), you can see the extra depth in the joint. 20200729_183004 by Numbchux, on Flickr

EA81 rear axles look like this: Look closely, you have a roll pin where the outer joint meets the suspension arm/wheel bearing.

No. EA81s, and early EA82s are the only ones with DOJs on the outer joint as well as the inner, after about 1988, they all have a CV on the outer. If you can get your hands on EA82 rear axles, the inner axle cup from them can be used in place of the outer on the EA81, but it's deeper, so will allow more axle extension.

That's best. You'd probably be fine, but I wouldn't do it. The chance of failing, and leaving you stranded, and on the hook for a tow, several days of hotel rooms, AND the repair is not worth risking.

I applaud you for searching, seriously. But, best to start your own thread with your own details, then add onto another (especially a long-dead one).

Wow. Again, ASSuming it's an old gen, and that's really 25-30 year old oil, it's definitely time to get it out of there. But the shavings are nothing to worry about. They use a metallic plug for a reason because shavings happen. Yep, plain jane GL-50 80w90 will treat it well.

Normal. In fact, looks like a pretty small amount for a manual transmission with that many miles on it. ASSuming it's actually an old-gen car, very small chance it's never been done in that time.

My daily is a '00 Outback, currently about 335k miles. It has lots of issues, but most are due to it's life in MN (rust...). I understand that at really high mileage, the main bearings get beat up, and not worth line honing. I put an actual oil pressure gauge on it so I can make sure that stays good (the switch for the warning light is only a few psi...).

Any parts store will have a repair pigtail for the bulb (Looks like an H4?). Splice that in with some good waterproof butt splices, and it'll be good as new.

Yes, they offer the green standard CVT fluid in the quart. I do not believe they offer the orange high-torque CVT fluid in anything other than a 5-gallon bucket.

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I don't know the full list of cars that have VTD. '01-'04 Outback VDC models definitely did. I think some WRXs, and almost anything with a 5EAT. Or, anything with a manual transmission.

You won't know for sure until it's apart. But generally only when the bearing is completely blown (like, picking rollers out of the snow...ask me how I know )

I've slept in my '00 and '04 a couple times. With the seats folded flat (rear seat bottom flipped forward, pretty big help for getting out of the rear side doors), cars101 says there's 5'8" of cargo length. When my wife and I slept back there on our UP trip, I could not stretch out (not a big deal, as I'm a side sleeper anyway). Without folding the seat completely flat, you probably get about , but the front is elevated. This makes getting out those side doors very difficult, and would not really be possible with another person in the car. But, with a modification to the rear gate to open it from the inside, that would be sweet. Here was the latter setup (with truckbedz air mattress): 2018-10-15_02-49-50 by Numbchux, on Flickr The CRV has a 10" shorter overall length (according to wikipedia)...no hopeful for interior space. Forester is similar. The BE/BH Outbacks come with 3 different AWD systems. The most common, MPT AWD on the 4EAT transmissions is very FWD biased, and can send power to the rear as needed (to a point). This is controlled by the TCU, and pretty good. It can also be easily modded to "lock" (still not 100%, but better) with a little wiring and a switch. The manual transmissions are simple, 50/50 mechanical differential with a viscous LSD. The LSD tends to get tired over the years, but there's a company in Europe that can rebuild them, and even make them stronger. The VDC trim cars have VTD AWD, which is a 50/50 mechanical AWD AND electronically controlled clutches. Downside is these cars come with stability control, which limits the fun a bit. But the ABS isn't ridiculously intrusive. The cold weather package (heated seats, mirrors, windshield. An option on the early ones and standard on the later ones) on the non-VDC models came with a rear viscous LSD as well. These LSDs aren't very strong, but every little bit helps. Unless you plan to use the torq masters locker, in which case you'll need an open diff. I have a '00 5MT with cold weather, and a '04 VDC. I've had them both off the beaten path, and they do fantastically. As always, though, a torque converter gives you so much more control at slow speed (we usually take the '04). I don't even want to talk about having a clutch offroad unless you have at LEAST 100:1 crawl ratio, preferrably more like 200:1 (best combination using Subaru parts is about 25:1). The CRVs have an AWD very similar to the Subaru MPT system (FWD biased), but just uses a viscous coupler to send power to the rear. The Honda Element rear diff is a direct swap, and has a stronger coupler.

Lots of variables, and things can go wrong. Separating the ball joint in areas prone to rust can devolve into a several day battle without the right tools and experience. A hub tamer can theoretically (I've never used one) remove the bearing with the knuckle on the car, but I think you have to remove the axle, which is 95% of the work. 32mm socket for the axle nut. 14 and 17 for the brake rotor, 19 (I think) for the strut bolts (you'll need 2, do undo both sides). Pliers for split pins in tie rod end and ball joint. 14 or 17mm for castle nuts. BFH and various pry bars to separate TRE and BJ from knuckle/control arm. Then a press and assorted accessories to remove and install the bearing and seals.

Couldn't tell you exactly when the 6-cyl went from the 5EAT to the CVT. I wouldn't have any qualms about the CVT in particular (I'm not a fan of new vehicles in general, so I'm speaking with a grain of salt). The one put in the H6 Outbacks is a high torque version essentially the same as the one the Forester XT was receiving for many years earlier. It takes a unique fluid that (at least as of a few years ago, when I still worked at the dealership) is only available in 5-gallon pails. I will say, test drive a CVT car. See if a dealership will let you demo one so you can live with it for a few days. It's a very different feeling. My mom has a 2012 Impreza with the CVT (almost 170k miles on it) and I find the sensation distracting, because I'm used to driving old $#!+boxes, I'm always acutely aware of what the transmission is doing, and it feels like a slipping automatic to me. I'd probably get used to it, but it definitely bugs me. My mom doesn't notice at all....

Yes, what I have is not what he's looking for, not for sale, and on the other side of the planet. If you want to split hairs, it is comprised of parts from an EA82 RX FT4WD DR box, standard EA82 PT4WD DR box, and phase 2 EJ AWD box, plus many new parts. Pretty sure I scrapped the 3.7, 3.9 and 4.11 R&P that came with all 3, as well as the FT4WD center and PT4WD transfer. It has a new 4.44 R&P unmodified, because I had planned to use the phase 2 center diff. It has the 1.6:1 low from the PT4WD, although I saved the 1.2:1, but I don't think that will clear the Carbonetic diff either. All of that for a 25:1 crawl ratio. When my 4Runner has a 29.5:1 AND a torque converter.

The Miata ones will work great in the rear. Front or rear Miata ones will work, one is considerably shorter (I don't remember which, easy enough to find out, though), if you're going slammed, you'll want the shorter ones. EJ chassis fronts will only work if you've done a 5-lug swap and have EJ front knuckles. I'm not up on the 4-lug options, and I ditched that hot garbage early in my build.

Mine is not set up for a locking center. Way too much work, IMHO. I post it all up for sale periodically...but I've got about $1k into the R&P and front diff alone, not to mention 3 donor transmissions for various components and I'm not ready to take a loss on it.