Numbchux

or an FMIC, if you swing that way

I can't offer all the answers you're looking for, but I can offer this: I doubt you'll notice much difference mileage-wise between the 3.9 final drive and 3.7...the 3.7 will be turning fewer rpm's, but fewer rpms means more load....this question has been discussed, and the agreement was, that with an EA82 motor, the differences are going to be slim, with stock tires anyway (whole different world once us lifted guys get into almost 30" tires) part-time D/R boxes are all 3.9. RX's had full-time D/R with 3.7, but the lo range reduction is quite a bit less than the part time trannies are very complicated, lots of delicate adjustments to insure that all the gears mesh just right. personally, I won't open up the tranny. IMO, too much risk of majorly screwing something up!

oh yea, definately, in fact, if they are that hard to get off, maybe take a wire brush to them a little and clean 'em up. then put some anti-seize on 'em. and you'll be golden!

that's just not true up here. I've seen many times where jeeps have had all the weight on the front or rear sitting on the diff, and 3 wheels spinning. there's one trail where theres a big log going diagonally across the trail, and the trail is to narrow to turn at it straight. I've pulled a jeep off that everytime I've gone through it, and then stepped right over it with my LSD without trouble.

if the spring pins are out....they're probably 'organically welded' (as my dad would say). Rust, and just plain time will make them alot harder to get off. Heat up the narrow part of the inner cups with a Mapp or propane torch (or acetelyne if you have one), and an air chisel if you have one. otherwise just a big hammer, and beat them off.

yea scrap, the 4WD EA81s have a little 'dent' in them for the rear diff. the 2WD ones don't.

of course you could put bigger blocks on the engine crossmember to fix the camber. but you'd be losing at least an inch of ground clearance! That's what sets us apart from all the solid axle guys, we've got better ground clearance. I'd have to lose 2 inches, since both of my wagons have taller strut blocks then xmember blocks.....I'll take the camber, thank you very much!

oh, sorry.....this was all in my blue '88 wagon I should also add that I've never broken the actual axle. they've all been joint failures. The rear ones where both inner DOJ failure. The fronts have been almost always CVs, but I had a DOJ fail on the freeway in the middle of nowhere northern MN. Had to pound the CV apart in our campground NAPA reman'd rear axle + too much angle + way too much go pedal =

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54641

there's definately a sway bar on my buddies hatch.....and it's a best, different way of attaching, but it's definately there, and limiting flex! oh yea.....those tires look sweet!!!

I've broken a bunch because of getting the iron ore-filled mud in broken boots. a few more to sandy mud the ones from the lift were because of axle angle, but don't stop reading there. The origional AA high-clearance lift had rear adjustability for up to another inch of lift. I had that cranked in, with just the 1" blocks under the mustache bar, and the front adjustables cranked up to match. I had a couple fail on-road due to the angles, adjusted down, haven't broken any for 5k+. the 2 that 'broke' offroading due to angles where both with the same setup as above, I flexed it out on a rock, lifted the right rear tire, kept on the go pedal, and rolled BACKWARDS back onto the ground with that tire spinning FORWARDS.......needless to say the NAPA reman'd axle blew to pieces, and the Junkyard OEM one just fell apart, I reassembled it in the campground and am still using it today. now with your 2" diff shim, I cranked the rear end back up, and am running a healthy 5" of lift, with no axle problems does that answer your question? :-p

I've heard great things.....as far as reman's go.....it's still much much cheaper and easier for me to stop at my local UPullRParts and get one.

check post 26: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=309281&postcount=26 That is on the rear, I have that wagon now, they're still on it, and this thing has the best brake feel of any subaru I've ever owned!

they're just A/T's look like BFG's......what's wrong with those? looks like fun! I remember wheeling my wagon when it was stock.....hehehe

I know.....it's just not the same without the blue beast

I'm going to need more than just one....but I may have a local guy do it for me. hmmm....I really want to make this work! There has to be a way...

+1 All things being equal, I'd buy AA but as someone who acutally owns, and wheels full lifts from both AA and BYB, and has an add-on part from SJR, I'd wheel the crap out of any one of them without a seconds hesitation. It's true that the origional AA high-lift design posed potential Axle problems. But because of my luck....or lack thereof for the first couple months....they changed their design, and things are much better as a result. It's too bad that some of you die-hard BYB fans refuse to give credit where credit is due... I've put 10k miles or more on my AA lifted '88 wagon, including hundreds offroad. I had engine failure on that wagon, and am now driving a BYB lifted '88 wagon, and it's at least as solid!

I've got a '92 loyale, needs serious motor work I've got a complete EJ motor (or will, hopefully soon), not sure on the donor car the loyale has factory cruise control, can this be kept with the EJ swap? or only if the ECU is out of a car with cruise....

the removal of the condeser makes installation of an aftermarket electric fan in front of the radiator a breeze!

even if they exist, you're not going to just log on to some site, and order one. they are not a common occurance, nor were they manufactured. if you want one, and you're rich, you could probably have someone make one......beyond that, no.

no idea on the cable....but the belt was only a couple months old. I swapped in a tensioner that still had a spring, and the right bolts to hold it in, and that helped, but it's still not getting tight enough.

no, shady, Morgan bought a suzuki samurai last fall, and sold the wagon to 95lwrx. who sold it to me about a month ago..... it's working, but not reliably, I broke another timing belt, and a clutch cable that weekend we had a great time, and my buddy's itchin to get that hatch lifted, he's already tracked down some 6-lug wheels, a guy who'll help him machine his hubs, a deal on swampers, rear discs, etc.....

with the PoopenVagon, and it's new little buddy, nicknamed for now "project mud rat" and I bet you never thought you'd see this, MorganM's former wagon.....covered with mud!!! some 3 wheelin in the hatch: here's a little ice: OK, it wasn't quite strong enough and a little mud

hmmm.....something's not right there....maybe EA81's aren't as stable.... just noticed he's got a legacy.....that will be VERY stable without the sway bar. disconnect it from one side and take it for a test drive, I think you'll be pleasantly suprised.