Numbchux

What body style '88 GL? EA81s have a narrower track width than EA82s, and I think they made EA81 hatches and brats until '88 ('87 for sure...), where the wagon, sedan, and coupe were all EA82s.

Thanks guys! Do you guys know how the EA82 3AT compares length-wise? Is it the same as the EA81 3AT? Bump! I added a few things, but I'm looking for more! I think the EA81 SPFI write-up would be good, but I can't seem to find a good link for it. post it up if you find it!

Yep, you won't have much for an A/T option that will clear the stock Legacy struts, but you can swap to forester or outback struts and open up some options. As mentioned, it's 5x100, By far the most common Subaru bolt pattern since 1990. Exceptions to that (in the US) are Loyales, Justies, SVXs, Tribecas, 2005+ STis, 2015+ Legacy/Outback, 2015+ WRX. are the exceptions. There are other vehicles that use that pattern, but most have lower offset, which is generally not ideal for several reasons. Small GMs (cavaliers, sunfires, and possibly others), small mopars (neons, etc.), not uncommon for VW. Toyota Celicas/corollas (although the hub bore is too small for a Subaru hub).

Yea, you'll need the entire pedal assembly, clutch, brake, and throttle. Technically the throttle pedal is the same, but there's no point to remove it from the pedal box.... Transmission crossmember is different. Obviously shift linkage, flywheel, clutch kit, clutch cable and starter. Your old speedometer cable will fit the manual transmission. CV axles are interchangeable. You will have to at the very least bypass the neutral start switch to allow the vehicle to start. You may also want to splice into the reverse switch for the reverse lights

I'm not aware of this ever being done. It's relatively easy to adapt a distributor to that engine.... I think without the majority of the engine sensors connected, the ECU would have a bit of a freak out. At the very least, the timing maps would not be ideal....

Welcome, and I do have to give you credit for searching. But digging up a ~7 year old thread to make a small correction (which isn't really correct, as it's only true of the 8 bolt manuals, the 4 bolt ones did have a stud) is not really necessary....

Normally, I don't respond to threads that don't say what the vehicle in question is. But, if it's a vintage that can be programmed yourself, it will have instructions how to do it in the owners manual. There can only be 4 remotes programmed in at one time, so on most models you will have to program the same one in several times to get it to delete another.

IAC is my first thought. Most of the other things I've seen have been more consistent, or give other symptoms as well.

I know the Ea82s were somewhat notorious for drawing too much power through the ignition switch connector in the column. My loyale did this for years, sometimes for much longer. Eventually it wouldn't start sometimes unless you pushed on the column trim....I finally pulled it apart, and bypassed that connector for that wire with a pair of nice spade terminals. I don't think I've ever heard of an XT doing it though...but it might be worth looking into.

That center cat is welded to the driver's side pipe from the factory. If you want to replace just the one, you will have to cut and weld. Here's what mine looked like. Broken before and after that cat: 20160623_165837 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Donor an automatic or manual? Neutral switch hooked up? Mileage? Maintenance stuff? "abnormal codes"....what codes is it throwing? You say when it stalls you have to wait a few minutes, what happens if you try to restart it immediately? Have you tried holding it to WOT while cranking then (shuts off injectors to clear a flooded situation)?

For the cost of cutting the splines into 4 little u-joint yokes to attach u-joints to the stock diff/stubs, you could put a mini-truck solid axle under it, and be done with it. In my experience, if the angles weren't rediculous and the driver isn't a completely nuts with the throttle, the axles were not usually the weak link. The stubs where they go into the diff are, the diff itself, then the transfer gears on the back of the transmission. Not to mention the shortcomings of the suspension itself.... If you're going to go to the trouble, you can solve so many of those issues Edit: looks like GD beat me to it...

That's news to me, so I looked it up on Cars101... Legacy 35th is 4-cyl Outback 35th is 6-cyl

04 35th anniversary edition is a 6-cylinder, right? I know the market is different there, and rust-free bodies aren't that rare, but here it would still have some value. And good used EZ30s are not hard to come by, nor expensive.

Of the 2 that I was referring, one was run for about 70k miles (to about 250k) with a TD04 and stock EJ25D ECU, later with injectors, a RRFPR, and over 10 psi of boost. The other had blowby at about 220k when the TD04 was installed. We started with a Perfect Power 6 piggyback on that one, and it was just a bucket of problems. That one ran great with the stock EJ22e ECU, but had other issues, mostly with the poorly-made up-pipe cooking the CV boot. That one was swapped out for considerably more power after about 20k miles, although still running strong.

I suppose it depends on the circles....I see it talked about a lot. And with things like the Raspberry Pi becoming fairly cheap and powerful, stuff like this is becoming extremely affordable: http://pidash.webs.com/

Well, it's been done on the stock ECU. Or swapping in an EJ25 ECU, that'll be expecting a little more air. I've personally seen 2 of these done for many miles, and be surprisingly reliable (the issues were unrelated to the tune. Hoses rubbing, etc.) It's been done with an aftermarket (rising rate, or just higher) fuel pressure regulator and the stock ECU. In my experience, the stock ECU doesn't get along with piggybacks so well. It works for fuel adjustments (but the stock ECU does pretty well in that department anyway), but when you start trying to fool it into changing the timing, it freaks out and the engine dies. Standalones are expensive. I've worked more than a little with Links, and a GEMS controller. And have good friends with experience with Hydras, and Haltecs. But be prepared to spend thousands on a decent one. I've been looking more into Megasquirt. It's got some teething issues, and a bit of a learning curve, but it's becoming much more user friendly and powerful. You can get a nice, pre-built unit for less than a grand. And if you're willing to do some soldering, more like a few hundred. I've been tempted to throw a turbo on my Celica, and if I do, it'd be with a megasquirt.

The engine is out?! That will have an effect on ride height.

So you had a failed spring, and replaced it with a presumed-good used one. Is the 2-2.5" height difference you mentioned compared to the old ride height (with broken spring)? I'm going to refer to my previous questions. I probably will stop checking this thread if you ignore them again.

Your posts are very difficult to read and understand. So you installed different springs, too? Anything else? What do you want to do? Do you want to lift it? Or do you want to return it to stock? These things are both possible, so let's focus on one thing here.

Based on the information given, I'm going to answer all your questions with a resounding "maybe"

I'm sure it is. I've installed 2 of the SJR ones, and they fit excellently as well. You can thank Scott for the tabs on the top for the pitch stopper.

http://sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/engine-swap-parts/ej-ea-adapter-plate-detail

I just stumbled on a brake bias calculator, and wanted to run the numbers on my XT6 through it, and I thought I'd post it up... Keep in mind, this does not account for brake booster or proportioning valve, so the raw numbers aren't completely accurate, but since I didn't change those parts, it makes for an interesting comparison. I'm using the default 60 lbs of pedal force, and 0.4 coefficient of friction on the pads. Stock XT6 (7/8 master, 54mm front calipers, 262 mm front rotors, 30mm rear calipers and 256 mm rear rotors): 579 psi of line pressure 176 ft/lbs of front braking torque 91 ft/lbs of rear braking torque for a 65% front bias (again, without the proportioning valve) Now I have... SVX Master 1 1/6th, 43mmx2 front calipers, 276 mm front rotors, 38mm rear calipers and 256 mm rear rotors. 451 psi of line pressure 287 ft/lbs of braking torque on the front 114 lb/lbs on the rear leaving 71.4% front bias.

They are reversible. The splines on the shaft should be the same, but I'm really not sure. There's also a chance with a remanufactured axle that they've cut them down....