Numbchux

Block off is in a box in the bottom-center of this illustration: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g12/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transmission_case/illustration_2/ Your car should have it.

Yep, 2 cylinders are siamesed, just like the EA82. The second port is the same size.

High and Low beam use the same fuses/relays Low beam and Daytime Running Lights both use the same filament in the bulbs. I'd test for power across the bulb connector, if it passes, try a new bulb. If it fails, then isolate whether it's the power or ground side of the circuit that has failed (test each wire individually, referencing straight to the battery for the other). The power side has the same source as the high beams, so I assume that will be fine. I just spent quite some time studying the diagrams for that circuit (btw, the 2003 diagram has 2 wires for the Daytime Running Light relay switched, and it didn't make sense, but I had the same diagram printed for my '04, and it does make sense). I don't see a common component that could cause both issues other than the bulb itself (I have seen bulbs have some continuity, but not light up...). The Daytime Running Light module and relay would both have to be failed, I think. And they get their power from the same fuse that supplies power to the ECU and fuel pump (so if it runs, we can assume that is fine).

I picked this up about a year and a half ago. '04 Outback VDC with every option, and most of the available accessories. It was in a decent wreck, but it was at just the right angle and not hard enough to set off the air bags. [/url]NCM_0445 by Numbchux, on Flickr NCM_0448 by Numbchux, on Flickr I got a lot of parts from our local UPull yard: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4281/35529466042_13801ff378_k.jpgNCM_0802 by Numbchux, on Flickr But they won't do body cuts, so Oak Leaf Auto Salvage saved the day (these guys are awesome, and specialize in newer Subarus): NCM_0810 by Numbchux, on Flickr Fast forward..... NCM_0840 by Numbchux, on Flickr While I was at it, I added an auxiliary transmission cooler. Plumbed before the radiator to reduce overcooling. 20160326_155341 by Numbchux, on Flickr I took it through the DMV inspection so that I could get plates for it about 2 weeks ago. I went down 2 days ago (it's been at my parents' place) and threw a trailer hitch on it, and brought it home. A few pictures of it with our '03 at a rest stop on our way home: 20160508_182200 by Numbchux, on Flickr 20160508_182216 by Numbchux, on Flickr The '04 has a Reese trailer hitch on it, and the '03 has a Subaru Accessory one: 20160508_182229 by Numbchux, on Flickr 20160508_182245 by Numbchux, on Flickr AFAIK, these are the only options for these cars that go over the exhaust, all the others hang under it. The Subaru one requires the bumper cover to be cut in a few places, where the Reese one extends to the front of the car further and doesn't interfere with the bumper cover (although I did have to lower the charcoal canister to do it). Yesterday, I rented a vacuum pump from AutoZone, and bought a new receiver/drier. I then replaced every o-ring in the engine bay, added a little UV dye, and replaced the PAG oil (FSM calls for .27 fl oz with condensor and receiver/drier replacement). Put a vacuum on it, which held for an hour. So I ran the vacuum pump for another hour, then I emptied 2 12 oz cans of refrigerant in it (FSM calls for .6-.7 KG, which works to 21.1-24.6 oz). I have a '97 Legacy that I did some work on and am reselling. The day that sells, I'm ordering a 2" SJR lift with trailing arm spacers. And I'm planning on 235/65R17 Kumho Road Venture AT51s on 17x7+48 '07 Outback 7-spoke wheels. A good friend of mine has a 2013 Forester with a 2" ADF lift and 235/75R15 General Grabber AT2s (0.1" taller than the setup I'm looking at) on 15x7+40 Team Dynamics gravel wheels. We're planning a camping trip up the UP of Michigan in August that should have us driving off-road more than on-. And completely living out of the vehicles. So there will be lights, recovery gear, full-size spare tire, etc.

Did I miss something? What would make you suspect 3 calipers at once? You said your driver's side rear was smoking.....which tells me that caliper is not releasing. Most likely the piston seized in the bore. You might be able to hone the cylinder, clean up the piston, and replace the seals. But it's usually cost-effective to get a reman caliper.

I would agree that you're boiling the fluid. I suspect one of 2 things is going on. Good brake fluid has a very high boiling point, so assuming the fluid is good, the caliper is probably locked up pretty tight to generate that much heat. In which case, it'll probably need a new caliper (or a thorough rebuild yourself). Or, the fluid is contaminated, and the source of the heat isn't nearly as severe (sticking slide pin, or pad rusted into the hardware). I'd probably start by flushing a little fluid through, and looking at the condition of the old fluid. If the fluid looks healthy, I'd probably jump right to a new caliper (I particularly like Napa Eclipse calipers). If the fluid is nasty, I'd flush quite a bit through it, and then clean and lubricate all the moving parts. Possibly replace the pad hardware and pin boots.

Lots of importers bringing over low mileage EJ201/EJ203s (SOHC non-turbo 2.0) which is a direct replacement for the stock EJ251/EJ253, so that's possible. But they only came with EJ251/EJ253s (N/A SOHC 2.5l) or EJ255 (turbo 2.5).

At the very least, it would probably have to be from a pull-style clutch, and not a push. I'd bet a turbo legacy one is the same though

Welcome to the life of an imported car. Since a '93 WRX was never sold in north america, you'll have to look at catalogs for other parts of the world, and then start cross referencing.... http://opposedforces.com/parts/ has a great source of free USDM and European Subaru catalogs available. That'll get you the part number, your local dealer *might* be able to get that, otherwise googling it sometimes turns up a source. www.amayama.com can help source pretty rare parts from foreign markets.

That TSB was news to me, but sure enough, there it is in the tech info system.... Of course, that part number is loooong since discontinued. But it's just a remote filter kit mounted inline with the stock cooler. 16-51-92R41139.pdf

I'd double check all the brake hardware. It doesn't take much for something to hang up and drag. Bolt the caliper together without the pads, and make sure it slides back and forth smoothly on the pins (sometimes they will work fine individually, but once you get the caliper bolted on, and they have to move together, something binds). Also check closely that the pads can move freely in the clips. Rust on the clips, pads, or even on the caliper bracket can cause the pads to stick. Make sure everything is clean, lubricated, and moves freely. I fought this with all 4 wheels (one at a time, of course) on my wife's '03 Outback.

As far as I know, all the cars that got the remote filter had a second primary cat right under where the filter goes. So I do think that was the reason for the relocation. But that is not the case with the cars that don't have one at all. I agree that with the condition of the lines like that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to drop the pan and clean the magnets. I think the strainer can be cleaned, too.

+1 or possibly a CV axle joint. Not exactly common, but far more common than anything in the front diff failing.

Yea, at some point (looks like Imprezas manufactured after 05/07, I didn't look at the cutoff for other models) they stopped using them, relying on the strainer and magnets alone. The CVTs are like that as well (although they did away with the dip stick to prevent contaminants). Looks like the o-ring and cover that block it off, are the same ones used on the models that instead had the remote-mount on a 4EAT (certainly '01-'04 Outback 6-cyl and '03-'04 California emissions Leg/Outback 4-cyl). This would make me believe that the transmission case onto which they mount is the same, so you could probably thread that stud on there, and be able to add that filter. Of course, that case comes with the stud for the filter, where applicable. So it's a different part number, but that could be all that is different. We do not stock the o-ring, or the case (never sold either...), so I can't compare it to a filter. And, as it sounds like you've already found. The stud that threads into the case, and then the filter threads onto it, is part number 15211AA000, and has an MSRP of $3.70 So, while my answer is still a resounding maybe...there's some more information about it from the Subaru catalogs. I think I'd probably try it. Maybe order the part through your local dealer, and get under the car and take that cover off and compare it with the filter. FYI, Subaru (as with many manufacturers) is very finicky about returns, if the package has been opened, your dealer will probably not be able to get credit. So, tell them what you're doing ahead of time (and that you won't open it unless it looks like it'll work), and they'll probably be fine with it.

Here's the pinout from the wiring diagrams: Pins 1 and 2 are the fuse in question.

Well, you might call it a fact of life. But a higher cost of ownership is definitely a tick in the "con" column for virtually anyone. For some people it certainly might be worth it for the extra power. But not for many, which is why I don't recommend them for a Daily Driver.

Ignition coil has it's own 15A fuse on the relay block under the dash on the driver's side. Check those fuses, and check for power to them (although it gets power from the main relay, which is fairly safe to assume is good if the fuel pump is priming.

I wouldn't call them unreliable. But higher-maintenance. They're more finicky about when they get maintenance, and what parts/fluids are used. I don't think the parts failure percentage is any higher, but there are more parts involved, which does mean more failures. So for someone hoping to own the car to 300k miles or more, the SOHC non-turbo engine will probably cost considerably less (in time and money) in maintenance. And no, Bajas were not available with the VVT.

The non-turbo ones are right in the heart of the head gasket issues. Luckily, those do not (almost ever!) fail catastrophically. They start by leaking oil externally, and when they get really bad, they burn a little coolant. Check your fluids regularly, and it won't leave you stranded. My wife's '03 Outback has had head gasket symptoms since we got it, almost 50k miles ago. Subaru did update the head gasket part number, so as long as it's done with new OEM gaskets, and torqued properly, it shouldn't be an issue for a long time to come. The only other engine option is the turbo, which has a more stout engine, but the turbo adds complexity and therefore higher maintenance. While fun, I don't recommend it for a daily driver. My wife very much wants a baja, so I've got my eyes out for a blown up one, and then I'll swap the drivetrain from our '04 Outback VDC into it....

EJ axle with 23-spline inner is one option. '93-'94 FWD 5MT Impreza 1.8.

Since the thread title refers to the Loyale as a hatch-back (I assume is what HB means), it's possible that they're both EA82s. '85-'88 was confusing, as the old body style/engine cars overlapped with the newer ones, even though they were considerably different. EA81s were still available in the Brat, or hatch body style. That hatch looks like this: EA82s were available in Sedans, Wagons: or coupes: If both cars are EA82s, and either both turbo, or non-turbo, than yes, the exhaust should all fit. If not, some of it may work, some may not

First picture of my friend's Forester with the new tires. This is a 2013 forester X Premium, with a 2" ADF lift (strut spacers, and rear subframe spacers), 15x7 +40 Team Dynamics Rally wheels, and 235/75r15 General Grabber AT2s (Spec at 29.1" on Tire Rack). This is with zero trimming, and only a hair of rubbing on the rear of the front wheel well while turning (we will see once we start to flex it out). 2017-07-21_04-21-38 by Numbchux, on Flickr

I stand corrected, I just looked in the replacement parts catalog (gets updated more frequently), and there it is. Starting in '98 Forester, all others in 2000 G3210FC000 is the part number for it. Googling that shows some documentation about it.

Yep, and even then it was an accessory in all but the absolute top of the line models.

Yep, I use this one quite a bit, too. As it factors in wheel width and offset, too http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp