bratman18

Installed the STi intake manifold today

And do you remember who gave you the advise to rough it up with sandpaper?

I would agree about the flywheel in a Legacy as well, just isn't necessary in an old GL unless your having serious slipping issues. I have done it that way to MANY older cars with no issues ever. But definitely do it whichever way you want, just throwing out what I have experienced.

Not to bring up a sore subject, but......what about your BRAT?! Lol

To the left, remember, righty tighty, lefty loosy, then pop that clip off and pull hose through.

Just for future reference, it's a lot easier to remove the whole power steering pump with lines attached. There are 3 12mm bolts behind the power steering pulley, you just stick a deep socket through the holes in the pulley and remove the pump and swing the entire assembly off to the side.

That's so awesome. We definitely need more pics, and more info on how it's all put together.

Looks great! Nice intake manifold! Haha. Keep the pics coming!

Looks great! Did you ever get the right mounting brackets for the front lip?

Looks like it could be never seize on that shaft. And also make sure you have the 2 dowel pics where they need to be on the engine OR the tranny.

More great work! Keep it up, and let's see some more pics! What are your plans for a clutch?

Can't remember what grit I used, but rough is good. It's not like you're going to do too much to the surface, just a little refresh.

I have done many sheet metal patches with my cheap flux core welder. It takes a lot of practice to make it work. But once you get the hang of it, it's not too bad to do. Short pulses of the trigger works well. Always check for penetration, and strength to make sure your welds are good. They may not always look the prettiest, but you can smooth them over, and then use body filler to make it look good after. I have done a few rear quarter patches now this way, and they are still holding up well to this day.

On these older cars, unless the flywheel is loaded with hot spots, I have always just gone over the surface with a sanding disc lightly to kid of refresh the surface. Never had an issue doing that, and it has always worked well. If you were going with an EJ22 swap or something, I'd say get it resurfaced.

Actually, this has been done from what I am told. a couple guys local have done this even. One of them recently went with a bigger turbo and supporting mods, so he went with a stand alone, but the others made modifications to the ECU with some chip available from a guy on one of the forums.

Haven't seen it on an EA82, but I have seen a few on the EA81's.

It's almost definitely a front axle

I loved XT6 seats in my BRAT, if you're tall at all, they make a huge difference in space.

Remove rear diff from Legacy, and bolt in rear diff from the GL

85-89 5 spd dual range tranny will work.

Nice progress!

Haha, and yet it kept going!

I know this, I just said the axle in general, and then specified the inner. I agree if it's the original axle, it's probably the cause. They can look just fine, and "feel" just fine when you grab and try to move it by hand, but can cause vibration when driving. Just because it looks ok, doesn't mean it is.

Not that it's any help, but I have had at least 3 of my older 5 spd dual ranges do that. Like you said, it wasn't big deal, so I just never worried about it. But it would be good to know the definite cause of it.

Could be a cv axle on it's way out. Check to see if either inner boots are torn.