ettev

I'm starring at a new bow of them right now: From RockAuto...Stock #8002, Part # RC-FE22.

Welcome. I think you'll enjoy that car. Sounds like a sweetheart, low miles and good body. That's a win - win. Throw some pictures on here.

Just my opinion: 1. I've been told by some pretty good wrenches that unless you're rebuilding the engine with all new gaskets stay with the oil you've been running. So, unless you're rebuilding your EA81 stay with the dino oil or run the risk of leaks out of gasketed joints. 2. It's a Group III oil, which I believe is considered natural oil. If I'm not mistaken there was a lot of flack about the name "Syntec" in that it was misleading in making people think it was pure synthetic. 3. So they claim. But so will dino oil if it's changed regularly. 4. Not sure.....never use it. But all the articles I've read claim synthetic yields slightly better mileage. 5. Oh boy, here comes a flame war. I like heavier oil weights especially on higher mileage cars. One of my good mechanic friends tells me I'm nuts and that anything over 10W30 is too heavy for anything regardless of mileage. I run 10W40 or 20W50 in my EA81's with no ill effects.

That's a sweetheart. More pics. Nice job. Do you have the center caps for those wheels? If not maybe someone on here has an extra set for you.

12" long 2" in/out glass pack. Sounds great.

Interesting. Anyway, this project I'm working on has a few small rust areas on the body I want to fix. The supply place mixed me two rattle bombs of the Cosmic Blue in the bc/cc formula and gave me a rattle can of clear topcoat. And yes, I think if I run the sheepskin wheel over this on the buffer I could get a respectable appearance out of her. Not bad for a 25 year old car. That would never happen with a GM or Ford paint job from that era!

Thanks. The guy at my local paint supply store looked it up and told me it was base coat/clear coat. I didn't think they started bc/cc until later in the 80's. Go figure.

Throttle cable binding causing carb to remain open. Install a throttle return spring.

What paint material were the 80's EA81's painted with at the factory? (Lacquer, enamel, urethane, etc)

Nice ride.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101696 http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/?page=10

Rick, What size Interstate do you use in your EA81's? I know that sometimes a slightly physically larger battery with more CCA fit in vehicles above what is spec'd.

I picked up a set of 28x14 Bias TSl Swampers mounted on 14" steelie Peugeot's. How are they in snow? Gonna be mounted on my kids '84 lifted GL and I'm sure it will see its share of mud. But how about snow? We get some "interesting" snowfalls here in eastern Pennsylvania. Want to give him the best all around tire to drive on. Hoping these fit the bill.

I never coated the outer edge with anything either and never had a problem (watch, now that I've said that this latest one I just put in will leak!). Clean the block seal seat to remove any old material. Get it started as straight as you can and use a wood block and hammer to tap it in.

I just wired one up using Mick's DPDT Relay plan and it works like a charm. I'm using an original Subaru center lamp switch to operate it.

Not bad. I'm doing an 84 GL wagon now and am thinking of shooting the entire thing matte black. Zap has a hatch on his website that is done that way and it looks awesome.

Aren't pistons from a turbo always lower compression than others?

C'mon! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT!

Seventh from the bottom of the chart in this link. Select the "specifications" tab:: http://www.maxxis.com/AutomobileLight-Truck/Light-Truck-SUV/MT-762-Bighorn.aspx

Sounds like a normal soob with an auto!

Yep, he's the man, especially on these EA81's.

I believe the EA81's fuel pump is feed from the fuel pump relay, which get's its signal from the distributor, not alternator.

OK, so I fancy myself pretty handy with typical motor work and general vehicle maintenance, etc. This current project I'm doing has fought me every step of the way and I'm about to throw the towel in. Here's my latest. After having to literally chisel apart the old oil pump to get it out of the block I figured I'd better pull the oil pan to clean out any and all bits of the pump that got in there. So, drop the y-pipe, loosen the motor mounts from the cross member and jack the engine. All good. Take the oil pan down and figure I better check out the pickup tube. Yanked the pickup tube out and found it loaded with aluminum chunks and bits from the oil pump destruction. So the way these pick up tubes were assembled there's no way to really clean out all this stuff properly. No biggie.....I post on USMB for a pickup tube and GeneralDisorder comes to the rescue (thanks Rick, really appreciate it man). So I think I'm set. So I figure I'm in this far I may as well yank the valve covers and replace those gaskets as well. Off with the drivers side....no issues. Off with the passenger side and what do I see. The very rear push rod not engaged on the rocker arm. Hmmm. Loosen the rocker arm adjuster and get the push rod back in. Throw the crank pulley bolt in and (try to) give the engine a few turns to see what may be going on with this push rod and yikes. When its time for that last valve to open/close there is literally no action and turning over of the engine by the crank bolt gets pretty hard (more so than normal compression resistance). Push rod comes out of the rocker arm again. Hmmm. So after getting the push rod back in the rocker arm I take a closer look at the valve and notice that it appears to be stuck in the "open" position. So I think broken valve spring. Visually inspection only but no signs of a break. Put a flat blade in the spring and use the lip of the head to pull the valve outward, or to the "closed" position. WOW. VERY TIGHT, and still can't get it to come out as far as the other three valve/valve springs. Question 1: WTF? Bent valve or maybe just tons of carbon on the valve stem binding it? This car had been sitting and not run for about 3 years prior to me adopting it. Questions 2,3,4, and 5: If I have a bent spring whats an easy check? Do I need to yank the head to verify? If not, can the valve spring cap be removed with the head on and in the vehicle? If so what kind of compressor tool do I use? See pictures at bottom of post. Next item....naturally since I have the engine jacked up I can't get the two long head bolts holding the rocker arm assembly out thru the frame holes. After about a half hour of trying to get the motor mount studs back down thru the crossmember mounting holes I threw in the towel. Question 6: Whats the secret to getting the engine back into the proper seated position and the motor mount studs back thru the crossmember holes? I DID NOT do anything with the rear engine pitch limiting stay when I jacked the motor up. Next item....I remember when I rebuilt my EA82T many years ago and bought replacement heads they had these funky looking plugs on them. I'm suspecting they may be some kind of overheat sensor for warranty reasons but that's just my guess. What is throwing me off is that I have one of these same plugs on the rear of the motor just forward of the timing inspection window. See picture below. Question 7: What exactly are these plugs and can I assume that this car not only has a replacement head but possibly a replacement block too? I'm disgusted. The engine in this project was the one thing I thought I had going for me. I'm just not in the mood for open heart surgery on this thing. It's a project I'm doing with my 17 year old son and it was to e his car. Anybody in the eastern Pennsylvania area that can do an EJ22 swap for me on this I'd really consider it at this point. Any answers you guys can provide will, as always, be much appreciated.

Specifically for EA81's: - easy to work on in these days of body control moduled cars - no need to worry when you see the odometer hit several hunderd thousand as they seem to just keep going - cheap to puchase.....no car payments!!!

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