subyrally

yeah, but it was fun.

hmmm, mine had a blow out like that but it still worked. thats odd. anyone know where to get replacents for that?

basically thats what i love about it, that and the sound of the boxer engine.

can tell you that the cooling issue isnt the thermostat, i am thinking that the intake manifold might be buggered. definatly needs shifter bushings and better rear springs. the rust in the rx is nowhere near as bad as the rust in my brat. at least the floor is intact in the rx. and its still my car till you get the title:lol: but i know its in good hands, ive seen the jeeps you have restored.

my brat now has 15" pugs:banana: those i would not let go with the rx

i personally prefer a bit thicker than that for flooring, lol. iam hoping to actually make this thing better than it was new once i am done, granted, yes, it will take time, but i am willing to put the workl into it if i am physically able. i dont care how it looks underneath when i am done as long as its not rusted anymore. might not be as pretty as it was new, but i fully intend on rebuilding the floorpan of the car and reinforcing the body where possible.

i do hate rust. this thing is going to need a new floor to start, then rockers, but the suspension mounting points look good, the rear wheel wells are in rather good shape and there is very little body rust on the sheet metal, the ony rust on the body is on the passengerside rear fender. im going to get out tomarrow and try to get some better pics of the rust, there is a lot of it. i might even try to fix some of it ifi can. need to find some sheetmetal thats thick enough to repair the underbody.

thats good to hear, thanks. hey, do yo know if the rx front brakes are actually better than the brat brakes, and do the bolt up? i know im going to get the rear disk parts, but might as well upgrade the fronts if i can. i guess i sohuld worry about the rust first and then make sure i can get it running, needs a tune up something bad.

thats good to hear, hope to see you there, maybe my brat will be drivable by then.

huh?? the brat i am getting is a d/r 4spd in it already, so if i understand waht you are saying, i am lost, lol.

hmm, you do realize there is a bit of a time gap there, you are three hours behind, when would a good time to call be? or you could send me a pm with the info if you dont want to post it up here.

ive been looking around and cant seem to find much, but i am getting a brat and am going to want to swap in a 5spd tranny out of a rx that i am getting parts from. if i remember correctly, the rx and brat have different splinecounts from each other. has anyone else use a rx 5spd and rear lsd in a brat? can the cups be swapped between the axles or will i need to maybe swap out the hubs on the brat for those from the rx? the transmission is also the full time 4wd, dual range with diff lock, i know i need the switch for it, and there is like a vaccuum actuator under the hood, but is there anything else ill need to swap over to make it work in the brat? or is there a simple way to hook up the switch and make it work? thanks tim

wouldnt be too hard to do, ive got enough free time to attempt it, but nothing to test it on, yet. if anyone locally has some spare linkages and is willing to try, i am willing to cut and weld, i have nothing else to do for the next five months.

looking nice. how well does it run?

hmmm, no good. do make sure to nuetralize the acid and clean the hell outta it. you dont want that to cuase a rust issue down the line.

if you are looking for borla headers for the 2.2, go to www.nopionline.com, they are the only place ive seen em on a regular basis.

im doing fine, aside from nausia and fatigue. your getting a pm.

hey everybody, its that time again, time fore a cookout with me, your friendly neighborhood subyrally. once again i am looking to host a cook out here in frederick maryland. its looking like saturday august 25 will be a good time to try this year. im going to need help with things this year. i will definatly be needing people to bring food and drink this year. since i am slightly unemployed this time around and going through chemo, i will need as much help as possible. i will be able to bring a little bit of stuff, but i cant supply nearly as much as i did the last couple of years. the closer it gets to the cookout, the more ill get things in order and the more details ill be able to provide. as soon as i have more details, ill update the thread, please let me know if you can make it and what you can bring. and as always, anyone with a good mood and nice personality is welcome, no grumpiness or ill will need attend.

is this for a swap (wiring, ecu, manifold, ect...), or is it just the engine??

indeed!!

sounds like the first one is buggered. at least from my experiences with lsd, you shouldnt be able to easily turn it by hand. that reminds me, i tihnk i need to crack open the rear diff in my impreza, i think the lsd has gone to crap in there as well.

if its obd-2, then just make sure to get the entire harness if you can. not really that much more trouble than obd-1. just make sure to either run the cats or get some kind of mechanical cat simulator for the second o2 sensor, otherwise it will give you a constant check engine light and possibly run like crap/ limp mode. no matter what head design it has, borla makes headers for it. either way, they sound awsome. i would reccomend no larger than 2.25" exhaust from the headers back. seems to be the best sizing for low end and top end balance of power and torque... either way, thats a great engine set up to run with if you have everything to swap it over, very reliable and has a great powerband.

how did you kill your ea82t so fast man?? ive been beating the hell out of mine and it wont die. it might give a complaint here and there, but it still runs strong. maybe you should get the ea82 heads and block machined flat and talk to the guys at ram performance, they came out with some haed gaskets for the ea82t that are supposedly stronger than enything else thats out right now. also, make sure there isnt another reason that your gaskets got eated.

the dealership should be able to get you the factory touch up paint in a tube. for tyhe plastic bits, krylon fusion is good, i also reccomend duplicolor paints. as far as the rolol on liner, duplicolor has a good kit there as well, its about $60, but it holds up rather well. just make sure you fix any rust you come across before you paint, you dont want that under the new paint.

anyone else here notice that is the guy that plays Dr. Cox on the show "scrubs" ??