Fairtax4me

The last ones I saw definitely had a couple tack welds. Maybe that was someone's approach to make them stay put during removal/install of the crossmember. I wasnt aware the OB cross member spacers were commonly used with EA lifts. Hockey pucks are cheap and easy to drill through.

Jumped timing is generally caused by a failing (loose) belt tensioner. Replace the tensioner and all of the idlers, as well as the water pump.

Wheel bearing. The noise will oscillate if the inner race is worn as the worn surface rolls past the loaded rollers, which will only occur for about 1/3 rotation of the wheel. Also if multiple bearings are noisy the frequencies can cancel each other and cause a "helicopter" effect. Get a shop to put a chassis ear kit on it and drive it. Often the bearings in these do not exhibit any looseness until they are severely worn. They can make noise for tens of thousands of miles with no signs of play.

It'll still set a code because the MAP value will change too much. Manifold vacuum only drops a small amount when the EGR valve opens. It does not drop to 0. Put an EGR manifold on it and plumb the EGR inlet tube to the IAC hose.

In the middle of winter, sure. But when its hot gasoline will evaporate quickly and raise the pressure in the tank faster than the engine can use fuel and draw the pressure down. Also the excess fuel that didnt get sprayed through the injectors returns from the engine already warm, and it just gets dumped into the tank, which shakes everything up and causes the fuel to evaporate more. There's also an exhaust pipe right below the middle of the tank. Not to mention just driving the car makes the gas slosh around in the tank, which causes it to evaporate, and pressure to build. The evap system does have a way to limit how much pressure builds in the tank by venting through a valve on top of the tank. The valve sends vapors to the evap canister, and after the fuel vapor is collected by the canister air is let out through the filter by the canister. But the tank has to reach a certain pressure before the vent system opens. A 1-1/2 second woosh is pretty normal on a warm day after the car has been driven. Even if only a short distance.

Spacers on the trans cross member are welded on so you need the whole thing, plus bolts. You will also need the transverse bushings for the front control arms.

There will be some pressure buildup in the tank with a properly working evap system. If you DONT get a woosh from the tank there may be a leak somewhere. How does the fuel trim look since the reset? Does it still give the same code?

Plug gap for a 2.2 should be .039-.043". You can probably gap them at .080 and they'll still fire with that MSD coil. Not that you should, but its probably doable. The MSD coil is a higher voltage coil right? So you can certainly open the gap some. Add to that a little lower compression ratio because of the heads. I would go in the .050-.055 range and see how it does. I put an MSD 6AL box on my old Ranger and gapped the plugs at .070 just to see what it would do (normal gap was .045"). The thing ran better than it ever had. Stock coil too. Actually you might try doing some searching on MSDs website. They may have a chart for determining gap range based on compression ratio.

Glad to hear she's OK. Kias are a good buy New, but be wary of a used one with high mileage. If you're interested, I know of an 04 Forester Xt for sale in very good condition.

P1325 is Knock Sensor Low Input. Very common for the knock sensors to fail. eBay has them for around $20. Spark plugs and wires would be first on the list. Check coolant level and look for any cloudiness or muddy appearance in the coolant. If it looks nasty then it probably needs to be changed. You can check fan operation by connecting the green plugs under the dash on the drivers side. Turn the key to On and the fans will start to cycle on and off in approximately 1 second intervals. Check that each fan runs at two speeds, low then high, then off. If one fan or one speed doesn't work check fuses and tap on the relays in the underhood fuse panel. If you feel each relay clicking off and on, but the fan does not work the fan motor may be dead.

Felpro makes the 2.2 head gasket for Subaru. You can get them at most auto parts stores for alot less than a dealer and its the same exact part. Expect there to be a fair amount of corrosion around the coolant ports on the head surface. This is generally what leads to the breach of the fire ring on the 2.2. Getting the heads machined flat will remove most of the pitting. If you can find a Gates 34012 or Stant Exact-stat, those are cheaper alternatives to a dealer thermostat. The only thing you may really need from a dealer is the o-ring behind the oil pump, and the separator plate kit, if you plan to reseal those.

Put the dented one on a flat surface and knock the dent out with a mallet.

The springs on the pressure plate will flatten (move towards the flywheel) as the plate is bolted down. They will appear to be almost completely flat when the plate is properly installed. This picture is kind of dark but you can see how flat the pressure plate fingers are. http://beergarage.com/imgs/Suby/Lift/13.jpg I'm not quite getting what you're asking about the cable though. Do you have it hooked in the cable sheath bracket on top of the trans?

No digging around in the console at all. The lower part of the linkage attaches with a large bushing. Remove the nut and plate and slide the rod towards the drivers side off of the stud. Then youll see the joint where the shift rod attaches to the trans, just unbolt the rod from the joint. Much easier IMO than driving out those roll-pins.

Evap stuff is easy. One line goes to the canister the other goes to the manifold. EGR codes are two trip codes and need certain things to happen during a drive cycle in order for the EGR monitor to run. That has to happen two drives in a row in order to turn on the MIL. Often if a fault is found on one drive cycle it will set a pending code, but will not light the MIL.

This code is for the communication circuit between the TCU and ECU. FSM suggests the cause could be poor grounds for the TCU or ECU. Or there could be poor contacts in the ECU or TCU connectors. Or the signal wire is shorted to battery voltage, which the FSM indicates may require replacement of the ECM after fixing the short. Some voltage testing of the wire would be necessary to determine the exact cause. And for that you'll want to have the FSM handy to see pinouts for the ECU and TCU in order to do the testing. Check here for 97 legacy FSM: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

If you have 3 studs its a dual port engine. Only 2 studs on single port. I've bought single port gaskets at the dealer and Advance auto, and Napa before, but it does sometimes take some looking through the listings to find them.

What year and model? Any shifting problems? Pretty sure the diagnosis circuit is the one that puts the TCU into self diagnostic mode. I would have to look it up in the FSM though to be sure.

You'd be surprised how much oil can come out of that little access plate. I didn't replace that o-ring on my 96 when I did the separator plate. Within 3 months it was leaking just as much from the bell housing as it had been before.

With the 1" wheel spacers the amount of grinding you need to do will be lessened. If you google WRX brake caliper grinding or WRX caliper 15" wheel or something to that effect you'll find some pictures of calipers people have ground down. Should give you an idea of where to grind and how much. Basically its a trial and error deal. Grind a little, see if the wheel fits, grind a little more, see if it fits. Then once the wheel fits, grind some extra material away to account for the outward movement of the caliper as the brake pads wear.

I would think gear oil is much lighter than the silicone fluid in the center diff, and would not have the same shear resistance properties, especially when warm. Heating of the silicone fluid in the diff causes it to resist movement. As the plates in the diff spin past each other it creates a shearing effect of the fluid, and the fluid essentially thickens in order to prevent that. Long term affects of the constant movement of the plates in the diff cause the fluid to break down and thicken, which will cause it to essentially lock the center diff even when it's cold. Since the unit is sealed, the gear oil in the trans has no effect on it.

Possibly a fault with the TCC solenoid in the trans. I still think you need to pull the pan. You won't get circuit fault codes for the lockup solenoid because of the TPS.

Rears will clear most 15" wheels just fine. The rear WRX calipers do not sit out significantly further than the stock legacy calipers. There may be some wheels which won't clear due to the shape of the wheel on the back side of the spokes. I've test fitted WRX rear calipers on my 96 with 15" 6 spoke Outback wheels and they have plenty of room. Fronts you need to grind down the outer edge of the calipers to clear most 15" wheels. How much grinding needs to be done depends on wheel offset and the shape of the wheel behind the outer edged of the spokes. There are some 15" rally wheels made by Team Dynamics which WILL clear WRX calipers. There may be wheels made by other vehicle manufacturers with a different offset which will fit, but I don't know of any chart or compilation of which wheels will fit, or which won't.

I can't guarantee it, but as far as I know the knuckle itself is the same. It would be a good idea to try to get a knuckle with the same setup as yours (disc/drum, ABS/non) just in case there is a difference.

EA, EJ, EG, FA, FB are engine types. You have an EJ25 engine. Im not sure of the specific code on that year. EJ is the engine series 25 is displacement. There are numbers afterwards to indicate other features of the engine. EJ251,-253,-257, etc. Transmission is just a 5MT. There is a wikipedia page with lots of info about Subaru engines and transmissions.