samo

Sounds like it's time for a new alternator.

You mean the silver one at the top? That's Qman's "Beast" - quite an amazing rig.

*clap clap clap clap clap* I may not agree with a lot of your views, but this is DEAD ON. Oh, and that Subaghini is pretty sweet too . I remember seeing photos of a Nissan 240SX drift car that was painted with the Dukes of Hazzard scheme - the best part was the name "The General Li."

I acutally had real eyebrows made out of fiberglass for them. Makes the wagon look pretty pissed ! Thanks for the comments guys. Keep 'em coming. I just want to make sure I'm not insane before I save up money for spraypaint.

Yellow looks so cool! What do you think? The lift and stickers and stuff are photoshopped too, but this should give you an idea of what I think I might want the Subaru to look like... maybe. Oh, and imagine Swampers on there too.

Craftsman usually does the trick for me, but nothing will ever come close to my Snap-On socket wrenches... they're like butter. Love 'em. But, it sure is nice being able to break a socket and just take it back to the store and get a new one. Hunting down a Snap-On truck is a trick .

Well, the only newer engine that came carbed was the EA82, and if I were you, I'd stick with the EA81. It's less complicated, easier to work on, more reliable, and nearly as much power. I've heard of carbed EJ22s in '90 Legacies, but talk about rare... and not sweet. Now, Subaru fuel injection, especially the SPFI EA82, is damn near bulletproof. There's not much to break. Sure, you've got an ECU to mess with, but it's simple, easy, and lots of power, plus, it'll run better in high-angle conditions, where a carb will starve. The XT6 will have rear discs, but 1. it's fuel injected, so you'll have to go that route, 2. it's 5-lug, so you'll have to convert (no biggie if you've got a parts car, and you'll get WAYYYY more wheel options), and 3. you'll have a bear of a time cramming that thing in there. It's a cool engine, though. You can stick a D/R on any EA or ER engine easily. The EJs take an adaptor plate that Mudrat makes, or you can make your own, but it's still been done a lot. EJs are all injected, though, but they're bulletproof as well, especially the EJ22 and EJ18. Early EJ22s (1st gen Legacies) and all EJ18s are non-interference, just like older Soobs, which is cool. Plus, the EJs have only one timing belt to mess with. EA82s have two. Your EA81 has zero, as it's pushrod. IIRC the EA81 heads have lots of room for improvement with a P&P, especially on the intake side. The exhaust can be smoothed out as well. There's a recent thread floating around about this very topic. Not sure on the EA82 heads, but ask an EA82 guru like WJM for help on that. A valve job will not increase your compression. The best way to increase compression on an EA81 is to put in EA71 pistons. On an EA82, you could have the heads milled to raise compression a bit, or, if it's an EA82T, SPFI pistons will raise the compression. Intercoolers are for turbocharged applications. Sure you COULD run them w/o a turbo, but there's no good reason. Think of it this way. You're sucking in ambient air that's going right into the motor with N/A. It's not being heated much by the engine before it makes its way in. Add more pipes for an IC, and you're adding more area to heat up, even if the IC just cools it back down. You'll never get your air charge cooler than the ambient air unless you run air-to-water, but just... just don't bother. It's not worth it. Slap a snorkel on there and call it done. Alternators are easy - GM one-wire setups work great. Look in the repair manual or seach around here. They're supposed to be a pretty easy setup. XT6 alts will work too, and they're 90A, but they're fickle and take some modification. With a unibody lift, the angle of the CV does not necessarily increase. The engine and tranny get dropped down when you lift the unibody, retaining stock angles, with the exception of the AA lift, which puts more angle on the rear CVs to add rear diff clearance. Some say it's better, some say it's worse. I suggest looking around on here, particularly in this section and the offroad section - you'll get a lot of your questions answered before you know it. There's a HUGE wealth of info on there, just for the taking! Search the boards for info and you'll find more than you need. Oh, and I dunno if you have AIM, but if you do, feel free to message me - I'd love to have a chat about your Soob. You can message me at samo ownz yuo .

Baja wheels? Looks great. Powdercoat them black or gunmetal . Oh, and it was nice seeing you and your rig running around the other day. Sorry I didn't stop and say hi - I had ice cream melting in the back seat.

For rear discs, you'll need a turbowagon as a parts car. Or get the discs from somewhere else. Why not run one big alt and a battery isolator? Easier than two alts, and there's less stuff to break. There are three 6cyl Subaru engines, the ER27 (basically an EA82 with two more cylinders) which came in the XT6, the EG33, which came in the SVX, and the EZ33, which comes in Legacys and Tribecas. The ER27 is probably your best bet for a swap if you're dying for a six. An ER27 is going to be a TIGHT squeeze, though. Talk to SubaruBrat about it or Archimites - they've both done the swap into an EA81. If you're wanting an intercooler, instead of a six, why not start with a factory turbo engine. EA82T, EJ22G, EJ20G, and EJ25G are all factory turboed. The EJ22G is my personal favorite, as it's torquey and non-interference, and it's just plain cool. EJ20G or EJ25G are both awesome engines, but the 2.0 is going to be cheaper to find and nearly as responsive to modifications. You could mount the IC in the spare tire well and put a hoodscoop on, like so many members here have done. EA82T is easy to find, but it's not quite as reliable as the early EJs (especially the EJ18 and EJ22), and you'll have to do some work on your framerails. No biggie if you're going to build an entire tubeframe for the front, I guess, but there's better engines out there if you're going to do a swap anyway. ...but, if you're offroading, turbocharged might not be the way to go. If you stick with a small turbo, you'll be okay, but I prefer the simplicity and low-end grunt of a well-built N/A engine over that of a turbocharged motor. Nothing against the turboed engines - they're awesome - but they're more complex. Also, what's wrong with the EA81 you've got? It's no speed demon, but it's bulletproof and ultra-reliable. Plus, with low range or even a t-case, you've got enough gearing to get through just about anything. Ask any of the hardcore EA81 fanatics around here like Zapar or Qman - there's lots of others too. They'll tell you how awesome that engine is. True dual exhaust never seems to make these old Soobs quite happy. They wind up with pulse-pause-pulse-pause (or is it pulse-pulse-pause-pause?) which Fs up the scavenging effect. Throw an X pipe in there to balance the pulses. Be careful of being over ambitious. We all have big plans for our rigs, but if I were you, I'd start small and go from there. Even rigs like Sweet82's "Summer," Qman's "Beast" and SubaruBrat's monster started out small. It's easy to dive headfirst into a project and start tearing things apart with big plans, and then run out of money/time/interest before it's done. There's nothing wrong with dreaming, but I've built quite a few cars - street demons, track monsters, show queens, and now I'm working on an offroader of my own, and I know how easy it is to get sidetracked and overly ambitious with a project. Oh, and welcome to the board, and good luck with your rig!

Aussie-speak for a Brat No No No Yes Haven't done it. Rather than try to retrofit an EA81 dual-carb manifold, why not go the fuel-injected route? You can go either SPFI (relatively easy), MPFI (a little harder), or MPFI/Turbo (harder still). None of it is rocket science and you'll have more power and more tunability.

Mine's missing its plate too, presumably from the guy who put a new engine in it.

Sounds like a bad ground to me. The chassis-to-battery connection on older Soobs is a joke. Try cleaning the terminals or beefing it up with some better wire.

Agreed. 12V is ideal when the engine is off, 14.4V is ideal when running. A little fluctuation, especially of the parked voltage is normal.

Second on the coil/coilpack issue. My old Sentra did something very similar. Turned out to be a bad coil.

Why don't you? Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with.

Eh boy... while I have confidence in John, all I will say is I hope this works out for everybody, including myself.

AWESOME video! Great music, great editing, great footage, great cars! It put such a huge smile on my face. Thanks so much for posting it.

Bing! I love my Dewalt Carbides.

EA82s are non-interference engines.

Yep, looks like a K-car wagon to me.

^ haha... me too. I was looking at that like "wait, what's wrong with this pan?" Some idiot of a previous owner took off my Roo's skidplate... guess I gotta go find one.

Allied Armament also makes 4x140 15" wheels for Subarus. As for Peugeot wheels, look on older 404s and 504s for the correct wheels. They come in a variety of styles, in three sizes, 14", 15", and 390MM. Avoid the 390s like the plague! The wheels from a 504 are better, as their lugs are more standard and don't require a special washer to mount. More info is available on the Christmas-colored Wheel and Tire page.

The late 80s GLs and GL-10s were by far the nicest of the bunch. I've had two Loyales, and they're fine, but the D/R and nicer interior of the GL is far better.

Nissans and old Subarus use the same kind of key.

Another excellent choice (IMO) is the Yokohama Guardex K2 F720 (quite a mouthful). I've used them for two winters now and one snow run and they're incredible. I run them 365 days a year, and even with their ultra-soft compound, after 35,000 miles, there's still plenty of tread. I've been very happy with them.