Crazyeights

I am sorry to hear that you haven't resolved this yet. I was following your other thread, it's the red EA82 Wagon with the 22T correct?

Look 3 more times for hidden or missed fasteners The head may also be glued to the studs with rusty corrosion type stuff. Try flipping the block up on it's side (studs up) and soak each stud area with LOTS of Deep Creep, or PB Blaster or something. Be careful and patient if it's a good engine.

I found out that if I put the spacers or shims between the rectangular part of the EJ mount and the cross-member then the studs on the mounts are not long enough for the nuts to go on. I loosened the two nuts that hold the mount to the bracket on each side and shimmed it in there. A picture is worth a thousand words I know, and I don't have one right now. I'll try and post a pic within a few days if it's still not clear. Also you might have to grind off the bumps if you have the round mounts. I have a set of those too but I haven't tried them yet with this setup.

Outside. After you adjust the angle of the motor mounts so they are correct the studs will splay out slightly more to the outside of the car. I elongated them out about 1/4" each with a carbide burr.

First I slotted the holes slightly on the EA cross-member. I used an extra EJ block flipped upside down on the bench to fit a spare EA cross-member to the EJ block. I just used a metal shim cut to size (piece of scrap) and sandwiched between the engine mount and the engine mount bracket. Nothing fancy just wedge something metal in to make up the difference in angle and pinch it down with the bolts. The idea is that the bolts to the engine mount, bracket, and cross-member can all be tightened without any load or stress put on the mounts due to improper angles. In other words take the time to make your adjustments and resist the temptation to just "suck up the difference with the bolts". Tack the spacers in if you have a welder. Also do take the time to fab up a nice sturdy pitch stopper if you haven't already and you should be set with stock mounts for years.

Totally agree.

It will be an entirely new car if it's done properly. It will probably cost more and take a little longer than you think too, no mater how well you prepare. I would use a solid and re-sealed 91-94 EJ22, harness, and ECU. Very solid and reliable combo. Bone stock and plenty of smooth power in that light Loyale body. Good mileage too. Post lots of pics!

Here is a quick picture for you. Had my hands full - sorry no video. This is my '83, expect similar joy on your end! Nuff said

Keep an eye on the inboard CV's when you do this.

Yes, the decal is available repro from a member on here. Great stuff for sure. I think it might be here http://stores.ebay.com/bandercomindustries/

I like it. It looks just like my '92 that I am fixing up. Congrats on a nice car!

Holy crap, "wheels don't spin". We need more info. What was the problem in the first place and how was it diagnosed? What was found wrong when the unit was split open? Does the trans final drive ratio match the rear diff ratio? Was the front pump mashed by improper installation, and does the torque convertor match the trans? Was the convertor replaced? Why was a rebuild chosen over a rebuilt unit and did you do ALL of the work? Were ALL the cooler lines flushed so no debris was pushed in to the fresh trans? Is the fluid full and do you have any pump pressure at all? Start some dialog and don't be bashful. Some of us eat nuts and bolts for breakfast and don't have much "bedside manor". The best Techs and source of old-school information about Subaru's no doubt is right here.

I REALLY like this car and your work. This thread has inspired several projects. Thank you!

I might have found the correct pictures to that link in my foggy archives. I didn't take these though. ALL rights "preserved" and all that.... ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I hope these are the correct pictures. I don't think I still have the text. Let me know. I hope this helps

Thank you for "outlier" Gary.

Thank you for the pictures! Nice Brat. It's also interesting to see a little of your surroundings. It looks like a Sunny day too

The EA82 rear rotors would be too small in diameter I think. Hmm... Thinking. You should be able to make rear caliper mounts from some flat steel stock. I have a complete EA82 rear disc set up off the car right now (not for sale, sorry). I can send along pictures and measurements of that too if it helps. You might just have to fab up something. We can help! Here are some EA82 Turbo Wagon rear disc backing plates that I pulled at the local P-N-P and cleaned up for a project a couple years back. You only really need the thick center portion to mount the caliper. The rest just keeps the rotor cool and sheds debris or water. As you can see from the pictures above, any cut up old drum backing plate works as a drill-hole template for making what you need.

There isn't much info because you don't need much. It really is that simple when you break it all down. There is a post on here EJ swap 10 wires or something like that. I just completed another EJ swap harness and the engine starts on the floor with only 2 wires once it is all plugged in. Constant power and key switched power. The rest of it you just have to figure out. Here are some notes I have collected from posts on here from all of us, un-edited, and in no order. Credit to the original authors is left in place where available. I didn't write it, but it is full of good info. Care to clean it up go ahead. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ care to mention those 10 wires here? I am just trying to see if I got my harness right. So far I got: Radiator Relay VSS Fuel Pump Power to Fuel Pump/Main Relay Neutral Position Switch Check Engine Light Starter Wire to the ECU Ignition Wire to the ECU Test Mode Connector(? technically already on the donor by itself) Tach Signal anything I am leaving out? You're gonna want temp, and oil pressure, i wired in a fan seperate, as its much easier than integrating the both together. unless its OBDII, you don't need the VSS. The neutral position switch is over rated, and the test mode connectors are all there, the single green and black connectors. Tach signal is a black blue wire, you'll have to look very carefully cause it just looks like any other black wire. You need to find the yellow wire from Coil and Igniter, and reconnect it to the Ignition switched wire for the Ig. Relay. (that wire should also have been a yellow feeding a few sensors and solenoids power, and then, going into a diode, then out as Light Green to the ECU "on") The way the harness is setup, many folks cut this wire as it's junction is way up near the underhood fusebox. It's alright, it kinda needs to be cut and spliced longer to make the harness work elegantly anyhow. A/C wires, and state ID can be cut out. Neutral/park/and auto/manual swithes depends on the swap. What year trans are you using? does it have a neutral switch in it? i have 2 wires from sensors, 1 on the block the other 1 on the water cross over. which i have not attached, im guessing they need to be tapped in or are they just for gauges? they are the single pronged sensors see pic below Those are for temp gauge and oil pressure dummy light. They will connect to the Yellow/green and Yellow/Black wires of you're cars original engine harness respectively. Install a 270 Ohm resitor between the Temp wire and ground to correct the gauge reading from EA to EJ. IAC issues. Yellow = 12v+ center pin white = close (ECU grounds to close) Black = open (ECU grounds to open) ok fuel pump relay...thick yellow is constant power thick black? does this run to the pump? green comes form ecu and at a guess thin yellow wire needs switched power, not constant? The thick yellows are constant, the thin yellow is Ig. Switched.......supplys the relay, the Igniter, and coil....then on the diode, comes out Light green for ECU and fuel pump "on" Black is ground. ok i did think oil and water sensors, thanks for confirming. it is all powered correctly now and fuel pump relay is ecu controlled. spark at all plugs ok now for the extra wires from the ecu, - aircon wires i will remove - fan control will be removed - state id will be removed - atmo sensor? - neutral switch? - park switch? It is a auto ecu and i will be running a ej d/r 3.9 5 speed You will want to use the fan control wire to trigger a relay (ground side) of a relay. More reliable than the switch in radiator. Atmosensor is built into ECU....shouldn't have any wires. Cut the Auto/Manual wire to signal manual. Hook the neutral switch wire to the neutral switch on the trans. (grounds when in neutral) ignore park wire(cut) Although, if the IG. relay is gone, may need to check that all item supposed to be powered actually get power when you wire it up. the big yellow wire (Batt+)in particular feeds power to lots of stuff before it goes to the relay, so things like the Transistor, IAC, Vent solenoid, etc... may not be in the loop still. Well I found out values for the ej and ea gauges at 122*F there is 187.6 ohms at 248*F there is 19 ohms on the EJ gauge on the EA gauge it reads as follows 158*F is 72 ohms 248*F is 16.1 ohms The supplier for the oil line and fittings is Paragon Performance in Lake Arrowhead, CA. http://www.paragonperformance.com/ I got them to fax me the invoice but all it had are descriptions, no part numbers, anyway, here goes: 8" -04 female st. to st. Teflon hose assembly.............$13.10 #4 st. male, AN flare to 10mm x 1.0.......................$11.15 -04 Alum. Straight AN to 1/8" NPT Adapter.................$2.10 Alum. pipe bushing, 3/8"/1/8".............................$9.10 Alum. pipe coupler, 3/8"..................................$9.65 Note that 8" of hose was barely enough to get the sender positioned where I have it. Depending on where you want to mount it you may want to order a longer hose. Their entire line of adapters is on the website, it just takes some poking around to find them all. They also make custom stainless lines, in whatever length and with whatever connectors you want, I had some made for my three-wheeler, they're very nice and not too pricey either. I'm pretty sure you can get DOT approved lines as well. Reply With Quote ECU Manifold sub-harness connectors Ignitor Cam sensor Crank sensor Knock sensor O2 sensor MAF sensor Alternator connections Grounds (one's used by remaining components) FP Relay Ignition Relay FP/Ignition power ECU power ECU backup power Power supply diode pack CEL ground wire VSS signal wire Neutral switch wire Start signal wire Tach signal wire I might be missing some..... as I said that's from memory. GD Uhh....no codes if you do it right. I've used 3 Auto ECU's now. NO CODES. You have to do one of two things: 1) cut the AT/MT discrimination wire, and wire up the ECU correctly for a MT, with Nuetral switch (since you're RX is already MPFI, your trans should have the switch) 2) If you don't have a neutral switch, leave the AT/MT pin grounded, so it thinks it's in an Auto. Then the trick is you have to tell it it's in "P" all the time so ground the "P" pin. Interesting.... So it won't throw codes if it sees the vss signal and the park signal at the same time? That would seem like a large oversight on the part of the software engineers. If I wrote that software I would be calling the park switch bad at that point. I guess if it works without codes that's great. Im guessing that probably wouldn't fly on the OBD-II's. I would never have thought to try that - thanks for the info. GD There is an AT/MT identification wire on the '96-'99 ECUs, but you have to add a pin there for it to work. It's absolutely possible to use -'99 EJ ECUs that came from a car with an auto with a manual without any CELs Went to NAPA today and got fuel line, shorty belt for alternator (thanks again for the part number) and found the perfect hose for the upper radiator. It has the ej inside diameter on one side and the ea diameter on the other side. It is napa heater hose number 7564. I have a 4/3 lift and i shaved about 1" off the ea side and it fits perfectly Another trip to NAPA and found radiator hose number 8987. This worked perfect for my lower radiator hose. I trimmed about 1.75" off the radiator side and it was perfect. Now I need some new clamps for my heater core hoses. The stock EA hoses seem like they will be fine for now. If I can get the coolant filled I think I can plug everything in and see if it works. I got my fuel pump hooked up yesterday. I hope I didn't screw up the harness. EJ22T auto trans is 95% identical. However there are a few internal differences. (# of plates in clutch packs, higher stall TC, stronger springs in the accumulator pistons) As long as everything trans wise is matched, it will work fine. i.e. Turbo trans, turbo flexplate and TC, and turbo TCU. If you are keeping the NA trans in your car, just use the old NA TCU, flexplate and TC too. As for engine wiring. There is one more pin used in the ECU connector. (Boost pressure solenoid) Also.....Crank and Cam sensor pin location is switched on the Turbo ECU. You could run the turbo ECU and engine off of the stock harness. A few pins switched, and a few new wires run. Otheriwise, get the whole harness from the Turbo car and strip it down. OBD I EJ22? just switch the cam and crank angle wires, add the wires for wastegate control and pressure sensor, reroute the temp sensor wiring (it's on the other side of the coolant bridge), and you're done. don't need a whole merge. Yes - as Numchux says they are very simple. Obviously you will also need the EJ22T ECU as well as the changes he outlined. The turbo only added the boost control stuff and changed a few wireing pins. Also I will mention that the few wires which need to be swapped can be done at the ECU pins with much less drama than out at the actual sensors since many of those wires are sheilded, etc. GD I went through hell with charging on my last swap. In the end, I did not hook up the EA wiring at all. I ran the B/W wire from the EJ harness to the wire for the charge light. And the Yellow wire from the alt get's switched volts from a fused source. *note about yellow wire: that wire has a diode on it. after the diode, it is green wire, two of them. One goes to the ECU, and the other goes to the IG. relay trigger. If you cut out the diode, and supply power straigh to the green wires, the car will still run, but the ALT won't get it's signal volts. So you need to make the connection to that wire before the diode.

I used Legacy backing plates and rear calipers on my Loyale project ("Royal Loyale") I picked it the idea from Nico and Suberdave. You also end up with the option for a rear e-brake. You just have to weld up and re-drill the Leg backing plates and it's pretty much plug and play. The pieces in the first picture were cut from old EA rear drum backing plates. I am not sure how much this helps you though. I still had to find a set of XT6 rear hubs to make this work and I never did find the correct XT6 rear backing plates, hence the need for the mods... Sooo much difference in braking now. It was well worth the effort.

Nice list heartless, thanks!

As I recall the ones from the Datsun 260 or 280z's work as a small upgrade.

Call Dr injector in your area and have them cleaned and flow tested.

When I did mine on the engine stand I just rotated the engine so each head was up when I did it. Worked out great. I was wondering how you would do this in the car without swearing too much.

Grab the engine with the complete vehicle wiring harness and computer, exhaust, fuel pump, etc. You will also need to notch the engine cross-member in the Brat to clear the up pipe. The more you grab from the donor the better off you will be. While it's out you might as well do the head gaskets and ALL the coolant hoses, including the little ones, water pump, seals, TB, ect.

I have done several of these swaps and MANY harness repairs - builds. Spend some time with the ECU pinout until you understand it. You don't need much else to get started. Verify one circuit at a time if necessary until all the ECU grounds are properly routed and terminated. Same goes for ALL the power and sensor circuits. I really don't know how you can start to trouble shoot any issues at all with out ALL of the exhaust in place and the sensors connected and working. Add O2 sensors with heater circuits while your at it if you haven't already. 20 year old junkyard O2's are a no-no. Spend a buck or two here. Not flaming at all - just adding my .02 based on LOTS of hands on.