Crazyeights

You really should use a factory thermostat if this is an EA series engine. It is worth the extra cost and difficulty spent getting it. I would check that the radiator isn't plugged up (if you aren't sure, then it probably is). Also sure the fan switch works.

+1 on checking the radiator as JeZeK has mentioned above ^^^^. Most of the older GD/DL radiators I pull out are severely restricted by now if they haven't already failed.

I have always used the factory re-inforced o'rings with the 518, am I missing a new trick?

Sorry, wrong place...

This thread will get you through it ^^^. It is well written and has good photos too. From here all you really need IMO for a "rebuild" is the ability to press the gears and bearings on and off their respective shafts.

You are SO right with this one.

There are 2 size pressure plates (diameter) that I know of (FWD) 7 7/8" and (4WD) 8 7/8" if I remember correctly. Same goes for disc and 21 and 24 spline respectively IIRC.

Try Wagner Thermoquiet PD314, or have them cross-reference the number to something that they have a line on. Order for a 1988 Subaru GL-10 Wagon with EA82 Turbo and rear disc brakes.

You are correct ^^^, I did actually use an EJ fork and cable, flywheel and clutch too. It all came with a spare Alpine Wagon trans. I used some XT6 cross-member parts I think for the back end as I recall.

Most EJ trans also have the second location for the clutch fork ball-stud thing. Just relocate it to the other hole and run the [EDIT] EJ fork and cable setup with the EJ trans. You might have to modify the clutch cable mounting bracket on the trans. The EJ trans has a larger bump in the case where the Loyale cable bracket goes. You can also just use the EJ Hydro setup and mount a slave cylinder on your firewall. You might have to swap to a Hydro pedal box and drill a couple of holes in the fire wall for the clutch master cylinder. Either way it is quite do-able. It really is just a matter of personal preference.

@MilesFox Thank you for doing the research.

We finally made it! Here are a few more pictures. It is pretty here this time of year and the weather is just about perfect

The "Torque Grind" cam could be the key here. They are NOISY! So noisy in fact that they are probably beating the bottoms of your lifters in as we speak. They may also FAIL (eat lobes) if you do not add Zinc to the oil (ask me how I know). It was a little hard for me to accept that my brand new Hi-Perf built EA81 was actually supposed to sound like that. My cam failed at about 5,000 miles after MANY frustrated attempts at re-adjusting them. I have tried both Solid and Hydro "Torque Grinds" with similar results. I sincerely hope that you have better luck with yours. Lastly I would NOT use "Full Synthetic" oil with re-grind cams due to the above concerns. I would use an un-modified EA81 Hydro cam with a set of lifters dressed up by Mizpah in MN (USA) if you want a proper sounding re-build. Search for the thread "Another Noisy EA81" to see the troubles I had trying to quiet mine before I finally gave up.

Hello to everyone from Minnesota, USA. I am on vacation here from just north of Seattle. My wife and I just arrived in Minneapolis - St Paul a couple of days ago for a few nights with some friends. Tomorrow we head up to our lake cabin about 3.5 hours north of here near the Iron Range. -Jeff

You can re-use both the head bolts and washers. They will both last longer than the threads in the case halves will.

While either system will work, each one will have it's own strong and week points. An OBD-1 (91-94 or so EJ22) harness is a little harder to strip and setup initially but is probably more fault tolerant and less fussy overall about sensors, cats, etc. The OBD-II is no doubt a better system, however it can be less forgiving to a missing fuel temp sensor, VSS problem, Upstream - Downstream O2's and possible cat codes, etc. Either one is a huge upgrade and well worth the trouble IMO.

I would try and hold one of the front output shafts and then turn the other one. I would think this should cause the ring gear to rotate.

JesZeK you are amazing. Thank you for all of your pictorials

IMO this ^^^ would be time well spent.

I just meant that you might have to get creative with the shifter boot or the surrounding plastic. Even so you should be able to make it look sweet. Lots of us have extra parts too. Give a holler if you need the correct shifter and I'm sure someone will even have the proper color. This place is AWESOME like that.

If I understand what you are saying, yes I believe the "business ends" of both sticks are the same. It might not be pretty but it should at least function.

With both vehicles available it should be quite possible. You probably won't even have to purchase anything other than maybe fluids and gaskets. Good Luck!

If it has enough oil pressure to keep the lash adjusters quiet it's probably fine.

I have another one. I just rebuilt an 1988 DL EA82 last summer (original engine) and same deal here. No power until the timing is off the end of the scale or about 28 - 30 degrees, it runs really well at that setting. It's my car so I just shrugged it off. Perhaps aftermarket timing belts are slightly different, would that do it?

Front axles were different between the two, 25 spline vs 23 spline on the non-turbo as I recall.