Crazyeights

That would be a block heater for cold climates.

Thank you for this!

I am sure with enough time and money it could be done. It will never be a Brat though. It would be much easier to just buy a 4WD pickup Good luck and please post pictures when and if you get started.

Thank you JesZeK as always your pictures are the best! Happy Holidays to Everyone

It's been done many times for sure. Respectfully you will probably find a more information on the NASIOC than on here. There is some new gen turbo stuff here, but it's mostly the slightly older stuff that we play with

Happy Holidays to Everyone! Be safe in 2015 working on, driving, and wheeling your Subies!

You can replace the synchros but is isn't exactly trivial. The type and weight of gear oil greatly affects shifts as well. Also, if the problem happens in all gears, is the clutch properly adjusted and working? Pilot bearing not hanging up? You can also swap in the low range set from a regular dual range for a 1.59 low. It's a fair amount of work and requires gutting a D/R trans to do it. I have built several hybrid 5mt trans. My current RX trans (now behind an EJ22E) has a 3.9 ring and pinion set from an XT6 trans, center locking differential, small spline stubs, etc. I can help if you are serious send a PM. I am also looking for another RX trans if you know of one. As you can imagine this made for some difficulty when bombing up a hill and needing to drop a gear really quick. The older Subaru EA series transmissions just DO NOT shift that quickly ^^^^^. I feel when I drive that I really need to allow the proper time between shifts. IMO shift slowly and then put the hammer down. Happy Holidays, -Jeff

Hello and Welcome from the Edmonds - Lynnwood area "You can check-out any time you like, But you can never leave!"

Perfect! Thank you for sharing your labor of love!

If they are the mounts that I am thinking of, then you can tighten them up quite a bit. Remove them from the car and squeeze the "C" shaped limiting stop closed most of the way. This limits the travel of the transmission mounts quite a bit. Do also check the pitch stop rod as suggested above ^^^. It does way more than you might think.

Thanks for the tip on the muffler.

I have an Ebay replica on one of my EJ22's and it works fine. Again no real difference other than exhaust tone. It was a cheaper alternative to a factory y-pipe for me at the time I built the car.

I just missed a hatch by days I'll cut out the next set of 2-door rockers I come across. I have the right stuff so I can cut them out once I find a suitable victim. Just to confirm, this is EA81 2-door rockers, correct? -Jeff

@TheLoyale It makes NO sense. I am on the west coast, we still have some EA stuff out here but it is getting scarce. If you can wait I'll go down to a P-N-P and saw out some nice rust free rockers and send them out to you from work via Saia Motor Freight or some other carrier. Please co-ordinate with me via PM if you need help out here. I don't really do this for the money so I am a little slow. Most of the gas tanks have holes punched in them . Happy Holidays -Jeff

Interesting idea. If you had an old wagon or something with a blown engine you could try some test fit/fab and see how it measures up. I love projects like this. So, rear wheel drive then? How about a nissan truck transmission and transfer case

I had one old carburated Subaru where the idle mixture screw and spring would wind itself out over time and fall out. It was always just sitting right there so I could screw it back in.

I had no end of trouble fighting cold hesitation, flat spots in the throttle, etc for a while now on 2 different fresh SPFI EA series engines. All the other simple had causes had been ruled out. It ended up being a bad spot in the TPS right off idle (where most gas pedal usage is done). It was worn enough to cause a drivability problem but NOT enough to set a code. If you are all out of other options, ready to give up and frustrated then I suggest trying a TPS that doesn't already have 250k+ on it and see if the problem gets better. My EA82 Wagon runs like the NEW engine that it is for the first time after sorting this out. Also, make sure ALL of the code related issues are fixed as the engine cannot seem to run properly and idle down all the way if it is in the 'fault code' mode of operation. In other words you should actually fix that long ignored purge or egr code or whatever. Check this, on BOTH of my EA82 wagons the service engine lights were already pulled out by previous owners long ago. Try a simple bulb check too. Is your SES light MIA? More often than you would think. It's a dirty trick to sell a car with nagging sensor problems - "that light will NEVER come back on now!"

^^^ Thank you 'monstaru' Wow 40k already! I still remember the first start-up video like it was last week

It is an easy fix. Find someone close to you that likes old Subies and buy them a few beers. A good day or two of work and your on the road again.

If you don't want to do either one of these ^^^^^ and you can't fab it yourself, then you don't want to lift your car. It really is that simple Happy Holidays!

^^^ I have too and I cringe when I start them. Most of the time they are just fine. I WOULD NOT do this on a customers car however.

^^^ Because once you split the case open it never ends... until it's all new again

I just went through this on my 1988 DL. I ended up replacing the vacuum control unit (mode selector switch) in the dash with a lower mileage part from the junkyard. So far it is working great and switches modes right away now. Sometimes it would take an age to go in to defrost. I'll caution you not to loose the small rubber/plastic vacuum cap like thing on the rear of the control unit where it fits into the receiving hole in the dash. This is what helps snap off the tiny upper screw tab on the dash bezel. Also the selector cable is often routed on the wrong side of the radio braket causing an undo side load which also brakes the dash. Caution and attention to detail really pays off here.

So, is there any difference in power or efficiency on the same application between an unequal length header and an equal length one? The difference in the sound of the engine is night and day. The equal length header makes the engine sound pretty much like any other inline 4 cylinder. The unequal length one gives the engine that tractor or harley sound that everyone within a city block knows is a Subaru engine.

+1 about the cheap solder in radiators! Even the electronics solder you can buy now is REALLY bad. Where can you still order some that actually works?